Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Earlier this year my 25 neo in my 34 did a head gasket during a track day. Had that fixed up and shortly after ran into more trouble which was diagnosed as rings. $6k and 10 months later with a freshly rebuilt motor I hit my 2nd track day of the year and the car has turned around and chewed through another head gasket on the first lap.

Motor was tuned, ran fine on the dyno in heat, didn't make as much power as pre rebuild but we attributed that to the hot weather.

Found shit loads of oil in the coilpack valley, after opening the bonnet up, but only in cyl 1-2, assuming this was spat out of the breather. Motor now has shitloads of blow by, is running on 5 and obviously is spitting white smoke out of the exhaust like crazy.

Trying to figure out how exactly it's managed to eat a head gasket (and do the rest of the damage it's done to my motor) after one hot lap of Winton. Coolant was boiling when I pulled off the track, powersteering was also overflowing (which set my manifold on fire, yay)

before anyone says check your temps, stock gauge said I was slightly above half, which is what I expected given it was a 35 degree day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472788-fresh-rb25-dead-after-1-lap/
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, OSH1FT said:

before anyone says check your temps, stock gauge said I was slightly above half, which is what I expected given it was a 35 degree day.

This is just going to make people tell you the stock gauge isn't accurate enough track use

I've had a similar experience, except I cooked the bottom end bearings on the 2nd track day. And it had done run in kms plus a light track day on run in tune.
My oil pressure and temp gauges didn't pick up any issues, but they weren't monitoring in the spots with the problem....

Anyway, I learnt that building a motor doesn't always fix the problem that caused the motor to die in the first place.
In my case it was the external oil filter/cooler setup, which remained unchanged between motor builds.

What type headgasket? Thickness? What boost? Aftermarket headstuds?
Aftermarket radiator?

Its probably all conjecture and meaningless until you have worked out what your damage is.

So turbo is gone?

Loss of compression blown gasket or busted rings?  So are there results from a compression test and/or sniffer in the radiator if the thing still runs.

Is the bottom end ok?

Power steer can overheat and overflow but not after one lap usually.

Comes down to what is different between a dyno and the track. Oil surge is possible but unlikely to be fatal after one lap. Bad fuel and or fuel surge will cause problems more quickly.  Damage caused quickly is overwhelmingly combustion related rather than oil/coolant related.  The only other thing that fleetingly comes to mind is an over rev/over boost.

Its a depressing thought but more than one thing may have been busted.

 

Edited by djr81
10 hours ago, djr81 said:

Its probably all conjecture and meaningless until you have worked out what your damage is.

So turbo is gone?

Loss of compression blown gasket or busted rings?  So are there results from a compression test and/or sniffer in the radiator if the thing still runs.

Is the bottom end ok?

Power steer can overheat and overflow but not after one lap usually.

Comes down to what is different between a dyno and the track. Oil surge is possible but unlikely to be fatal after one lap. Bad fuel and or fuel surge will cause problems more quickly.  Damage caused quickly is overwhelmingly combustion related rather than oil/coolant related.  The only other thing that fleetingly comes to mind is an over rev/over boost.

Its a depressing thought but more than one thing may have been busted.

 

So we drained the oil out from the coilpack valley and the car actual runs smoothly and sounds good. doesn't misfire, sounds very much like compression is okay. Will be testing tonight or tomorrow when I can borrow a kit.

Only blowing white smoke under load so I'm assuming turbo is on its way out. Again, gotta pull that off in the next couple of days to figure it out.

Really just cant figure out the connection to the excessive blow by and the turbo going at the same time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...