Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hae all so im replacing my wheel bearing on my 1993 r32 and its been a complete nightmare. So i originally bought a bearing off ebay for a r32 as pictured451394808_Screenshot_20180611-174953_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.ee0f9ae64a3cbda25b225d1ae02e52bd.jpg

Then once apart i come to realise its wrong and its this type20180611_173717.thumb.jpg.1028eb28a7d1684f5009aa3c71c4a3a9.jpg

Now after alot of searching i come to the assumption i have a type m? Because i have 4pot brakes on front 2pot on the rear and digital climate control. i eventually found a bearing through bursons it came up as a r32 gtr drum handbrake type so i got it, fitted it up and the inner diameter for the cv spline is to big. Can some one please tell me exactly which one will fit because the lady at bursons said there were no other listings for a 32 apart from what i bought from them and the original one i bought. Need one by the weekend. Thanks 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474302-need-help-with-r32-bearing/
Share on other sites

Assuming your car is 2wd (since you don't say, and neither does your profile) not 4wd?

When you say you "fitted it up and the inner diameter for the cv spline is to big" do you mean you can't press the hub face back into the bearing because it is too large, or because it is too small/loose or something else?

If you post up your VIN# someone can look up the exact nissan part# in FAST for you.

9 hours ago, Duncan said:

Assuming your car is 2wd (since you don't say, and neither does your profile) not 4wd?

When you say you "fitted it up and the inner diameter for the cv spline is to big" do you mean you can't press the hub face back into the bearing because it is too large, or because it is too small/loose or something else?

If you post up your VIN# someone can look up the exact nissan part# in FAST for you.

Sorry it is a 2wd and it came as a hub and bearing assembly. So when i went to push in the cv shaft it just spins without meshing to the splines

1 minute ago, Duncan said:

Ok...so you are correct, it is a type M.

Sik_R31 was the winner, part numbers you need are:

43280-30P05 / 43280-AA000, and

43281-30P05 / 43281-AA000

 

Excuse my ignorance but whats Sik_r31? 

Those part numbers will i be able to use to them at a place like bursons? 

sorry, Sick_R31, not Sik_R31

On ‎6‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 10:24 PM, Sick_R31 said:

Bursons may not be able to use those numbers, they are a Nissan part number so they would need a cross check. You could buy from Nissan or Kudos as per Sick_R31's link. Or Amayama.com if you are not in a rush.

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

sorry, Sick_R31, not Sik_R31

Bursons may not be able to use those numbers, they are a Nissan part number so they would need a cross check. You could buy from Nissan or Kudos as per Sick_R31's link. Or Amayama.com if you are not in a rush.

Alright sweet as thanks heaps ?

  • 3 months later...

Bumping this thread, trying to get out the hub out from the knuckle after removing the entire assembly from the car...

I clamped the knuckle to a piece of wood, stood on it and went at it with my sliding hammer as hard as I could. Nothing besides me and the entire knuckle/wood thingy moved a single mm.

Just want to verify, the snap-rings are only there to hold the bearing, right?

Any options besides more heat, more lube and more force?

asda.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...