96' ECR33 Stage 1 & Future Proofing

[samw/skyline]

Hello,

I have owned a bone stock 96' 4 door ECR33 with LESS THAN 20K miles for about a year now and I have finally decided to give it some upgrades. I bought a super clean set of R33 GTR wheels for a steal and I have decided to follow a stage 1 guide I have seen floating around on this forum and others. I have found everything I want EXCEPT an exhaust. I want to know what I should run from the trubo allllll the way back. I havent really worked on a car in this manner before so please be specific. Any suggestions? I also want to know what measures I should take to avoid common problems with my engine. I have heard the rb25det has an oil issue but i dont know much about it or other problems. 

Thank you from Okinawa, Japan

[GTSBoy]

Ideally you want a full exhaust.  So you want a nice big dump pipe (off the turbo), big 4" or 5" cat with 200cpi (if you want it to do anything at all) or 100 cpi (if you want it to do almost nothing at all but look pretty legal) or no cat at all if you give no fark and don't mind cleaning the soot off the bumper.  The exhaust should then be 3" or 3.5" with a straight through centre muffler and a big rear muffler.  3" if you future power goals are not super high, 3.5" if you're aiming for lots of power.

There is an entire thread on here (search for "oil control") with hundreds of pages.  Start reading at the beginning, then you can actually skip a lot of it and only read the last 20 pages or so.  You will see posts towards the end guiding you to where the useful summary info starts.

[KiwiRS4T]

And watch out for Japanese brand name exhausts - many of them have 3in inlets and outlets but narrow down to 2 1/2 in just before the outlet.

[samw/skyline]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Ideally you want a full exhaust.  So you want a nice big dump pipe (off the turbo), big 4" or 5" cat with 200cpi (if you want it to do anything at all) or 100 cpi (if you want it to do almost nothing at all but look pretty legal) or no cat at all if you give no fark and don't mind cleaning the soot off the bumper.  The exhaust should then be 3" or 3.5" with a straight through centre muffler and a big rear muffler.  3" if you future power goals are not super high, 3.5" if you're aiming for lots of power.

There is an entire thread on here (search for "oil control") with hundreds of pages.  Start reading at the beginning, then you can actually skip a lot of it and only read the last 20 pages or so.  You will see posts towards the end guiding you to where the useful summary info starts.

Awesome! Thanks for the advice. Any recommended manufacturers? If you're running this setup what do you have?

[samw/skyline]

29 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

And watch out for Japanese brand name exhausts - many of them have 3in inlets and outlets but narrow down to 2 1/2 in just before the outlet.

Thanks for the tip. I'll keep an eye out

[GTSBoy]

44 minutes ago, samw/skyline said:

Awesome! Thanks for the advice. Any recommended manufacturers? If you're running this setup what do you have?

I'm only making ~190rwkW, so don't need a super exhaust.  I just have a no-name 3" Jap exhaust (that doesn't have the 2.5" restriction).  If I was to put a new exhaust on my car, to meet some enhanced power making desires, I would not buy an off the shelf "brand name" exhaust.  I would get it made locally to my specs with mufflers of my choosing.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Unlike APR you can go from Stage 1 to Stage 3.5 without the need to retune between stages.

Invest a Link or Haltech or ECU Master get your car running really well, setup closed loop o2 feedback and boost control via  3-port MAC valve.

The stock ECU is the restriction in most cases.