Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, how would I be able to change the sound of my flutter? Right now it’s a VERY high pitched sound.. I want it to be a deeper and more ballsy.

Current set up has a 2.5” pipe welded to a 3” pipe, I’m thinking the high pitched noise is because of the 2.5” pipe, if I was to buy a 45 degree silicon and chop the 2.5” bit off the pipe & just run a 3” pipe, would it lower the pitch of the flutter? Thanks in advance [emoji4] IMG_6155.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474683-dose-pipe-flutter/
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, Ogun Dullak said:

 


I’ve read almost everything there is to read on there mate, just confused on how to get a beefier dose instead of a high pitched one.

compressor wheel dictates that, take off the intake pipe and show us (or me) the compressor wheel.

Generally 6+6 wheels will dose better

  • Like 1

Ithi k  you need to look at a tuba or those other things for inspiration, not like a saxophone cos they use a reed, needs to be noise powered.

Probably another turbo that shoots its air back into the outlet of the actual turbo would do the trick. (only when dose mode is on) That would be sweet I will get a drawing prepared first thing Monday.

  • Like 1
compressor wheel dictates that, take off the intake pipe and show us (or me) the compressor wheel.

Generally 6+6 wheels will dose better

 

I’ll try getting a photo today, just trying to work out how to route this breather that’s plumbed into the intake if I was to buy a different pipe.. any way I could delete it?

I want to do all of this before taking it to the tuner (going MAP tune)

Ithi k  you need to look at a tuba or those other things for inspiration, not like a saxophone cos they use a reed, needs to be noise powered.
Probably another turbo that shoots its air back into the outlet of the actual turbo would do the trick. (only when dose mode is on) That would be sweet I will get a drawing prepared first thing Monday.


Sorry I’ve got no idea what you just said.. haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
×
×
  • Create New...