Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, TaylorS said:

Fix all the lines rhey are correct now and still having same issue where it wont get boost below 3kish rpm and and wont boost over 4kish rpm.

The part that gets me the most is that the car runs perfect when cold

You might want to buy or borrow a cheap manual boost controller like a Turbosmart one for around $60 and plug it in. My gut feeling says it will solve all your issues as the boost pressure is being regulated whereas who knows where it’s going now? Auto stores like Autobarn and Repco should stock them.

If it doesn’t work, you’ll know it’s not this issue and only spent a small amount of money,

Your call of course. 

Link on eBay: TURBOSMART Boost Tee Manual Turbo Boost Controller Black/Blue https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142976642714

Edited by Robocop2310
5 minutes ago, Robocop2310 said:

You might want to buy or borrow a cheap manual boost controller for around $80 and plug it in. My gut feeling says it will solve all your issues as the boost pressure is being regulated whereas who knows where it’s going now?

If it doesn’t work, you’ll know it’s not this issue and only spent a small amount of money,

Your call of course. 

ok thank you for your suggestion mate. whats the best kind of boost controller? sorry im new to turbos

5 hours ago, TaylorS said:

Ok thanks mate, i dont have a manual boost controller so do you think this is why i am having boost issues?

My gut says yes. See above message but of course this is just a hunch without seeing your engine bay in person.

For a cheap amount of money I would try.

  • Thanks 1
1 minute ago, TaylorS said:

ok thank you for your suggestion mate. whats the best kind of boost controller? sorry im new to turbos

Get any manual boost controller like the Turbosmart one.

TURBOSMART Boost Tee Manual Turbo Boost Controller Black/Blue https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142976642714

  • Thanks 1
12 minutes ago, Robocop2310 said:

My gut says yes. See above message but of course this is just a hunch without seeing your engine bay in person.

For a cheap amount of money I would try.

thanks mate, i will try that for sure. to install it do i just take off the 2 vacuum lines off the stock boost controller and then put them on the turbosmart one?

15 minutes ago, TaylorS said:

thanks mate, i will try that for sure. to install it do i just take off the 2 vacuum lines off the stock boost controller and then put them on the turbosmart one?

Here you go mate.

 

  • Thanks 1
3 hours ago, Robocop2310 said:

 

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Maybe a video showing both the tacho and the boost gauge on a 3rd gear pull will help us?

Hey installed the boost control. I have it almost all the way closed (turned all the way anti clockwise and then one click clockwise) ans still the same issue. Definitely felt a difference though. Heres the video of a 3rd gear pull. As you can see it revs very slow (i had my foot all the way down) ans then when it hits 3k rpm it runs up and then cuts out after 4k rpm 

20181028_172611.jpg

Disconnect the boost tee altogether.  Leave the hoses there, open.  Drive it.  Floor it.  See if the boost comes on and immediately goes straight to overboost (like waaaay too much boost).  If it does, we're starting to learn something.  if it still refuses to boost, then we also learn something - that something else is wrong.

Things that could be wrong here.  Blocked fuel filter, f**ked fuel pump, dirty injectors, maladjusted CAS (timing), blocked cat, crushed exhaust, rag in the intercooler pipe, something wrong with the wastegate/actuator.

Also, I cannot tell from your photo if you have the tee hooked up correctly.  Draw a sketch showing exactly where every connection goes.

  • Thanks 1
18 minutes ago, TaylorS said:

 

Hey installed the boost control. I have it almost all the way closed (turned all the way anti clockwise and then one click clockwise) ans still the same issue. Definitely felt a difference though. Heres the video of a 3rd gear pull. As you can see it revs very slow (i had my foot all the way down) ans then when it hits 3k rpm it runs up and then cuts out after 4k rpm 

20181028_172611.jpg

Hey mate, good to hear some improvement.

Upon viewing your video, I cannot hear the actuator opening or closing at all although granted low revs.

Also do you have a stock or aftermaeher BOV check for leakage there too.

Be patient and check all your hoses and hosing to and from your air intake and wastegste etc it feels something is wrong around these areas and fasten and tighten everything.

Also like GSTBOY suggested please take better photos of how the boost controller is installed.

  • Thanks 1

Thanks so much guys for your fast replys. 

Red is from wastegate to boost tee.

Yellow is from boost tee to t piece. 

White is to turbo from t piece 

Black is to turbo from t piece 

 

Yeah im not sure if wastegate opens ethier.

I checked the fuel filter, it was very clean. I feel like it is over boosting too. Because when it kicks in at about 3k it kicks on very hard and then stops very abruptly. Also earlier this week my mate had his boost gauge connected to it and at some points it was hitting 15 psi. (Beofre i redid vac lines and installed boost controller)

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-82199883.jpeg_1540710582585.jpeg

20181028_180753.jpg

20181028_180736.jpg

34 minutes ago, Robocop2310 said:

Hey mate, good to hear some improvement.

Upon viewing your video, I cannot hear the actuator opening or closing at all although granted low revs.

Also do you have a stock or aftermaeher BOV check for leakage there too.

Be patient and check all your hoses and hosing to and from your air intake and wastegste etc it feels something is wrong around these areas and fasten and tighten everything.

Also like GSTBOY suggested please take better photos of how the boost controller is installed.

 

46 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Disconnect the boost tee altogether.  Leave the hoses there, open.  Drive it.  Floor it.  See if the boost comes on and immediately goes straight to overboost (like waaaay too much boost).  If it does, we're starting to learn something.  if it still refuses to boost, then we also learn something - that something else is wrong.

Things that could be wrong here.  Blocked fuel filter, f**ked fuel pump, dirty injectors, maladjusted CAS (timing), blocked cat, crushed exhaust, rag in the intercooler pipe, something wrong with the wastegate/actuator.

Also, I cannot tell from your photo if you have the tee hooked up correctly.  Draw a sketch showing exactly where every connection goes.

once i find out if i have the boost controller hooked up properly i will try disconnecting it altogether and see how that goes.

No aftermarket bov. everything is stock expect the catback which is a hks turbo back and wheels. 

 

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-82199883.jpeg_1540710582585.jpeg

Hey mate, according to your drawing:

Red is from waste gate to boost tee - CHECK

Yellow is from boost tee to t piece - CHECK

White is to turbo from t piece - ??

Black is to turbo from t piece  - ??

Why two tubes to turbo? Should one go to engine bay (plumb back valve) or an external blow off valve? 

The below diagram shows how Turbosmart suggests the manual BC to be installed. 

Suggest you also clamp the sides to the BC too as one sold appears to be not fully in?

Image result for how to install manual boost controller on internal wastegate

 

Edited by Robocop2310
15 minutes ago, Robocop2310 said:

 

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-82199883.jpeg_1540710582585.jpeg

Hey mate, according to your drawing:

Red is from waste gate to boost tee - CHECK

Yellow is from boost tee to t piece - CHECK

White is to turbo from t piece - ??

Black is to turbo from t piece  - ??

Why two tubes to turbo? Should one go to engine bay (plumb back valve) or an external blow off valve? 

The below diagram shows how Turbosmart suggests the manual BC to be installed. 

Suggest you also clamp the sides to the BC too as one sold appears to be not fully in?

Image result for how to install manual boost controller on internal wastegate

 

 

6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yup, as above....do not hook anything up to the "tee piece".  That's going to the stock boost solenoid, which is part of the problem.

Hey guys thanks.

Nothing is hooked up to the boost solenoid. Sorry i dont know what the valves are called that each part of the piece is going too. I will show a picture of where each end of the t piece is going too. 

Its abit hard to see black but hope this makes sense.

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-559544011.jpeg_1540714645157.jpeg

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-1467986139.jpeg_1540714543757.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...