Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trying to get some info on the attached picture, Noticed my line from the steering that feeds the rack is bent ( short line), looking to replace it with an fittings if possible i believe the one side with banjo is m14x1.50 not 100% sure what the rack would be. I noticed the part is discontinued any help would be appreciated.

48363494_2246021965717233_4986454603999477760_n.jpg

Here, have a better picture.

Got it on my bench right now (GTR model, just assume it's the same). I'll look at it tomorrow and get back with thread/pitch for the rack-side of the banjo pipe :)

DSC_0812.JPG

Edited by K_arlstrom
  • Like 1
On 12/11/2018 at 1:22 PM, K_arlstrom said:

Both sides of the banjo pipe are M12x1.0 on the BNR32 rack

Thanks bud, I was able to measure them finally got my kit to measure, came up with the same measurements, Thank you for your help and a piece of mind coming up with the same thread pitch and such. Gonna make a custom line, ill post a pic when its done

On 12/12/2018 at 8:52 AM, SeanR32GtSt said:

Kinda thread jack here for a second but does anyone else get overflow from their PS reservoir 

Yes common on the track - need a better cooler in the system - stock is pretty rudimentary.

1 minute ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Yes common on the track - need a better cooler in the system - stock is pretty rudimentary.

Idk about previous owner but in my year of owning my r32 it’s never been on the track. But I have seen some spillage from either the reservoir cap or one of the hoses. 

Obviously the cap has a seal, and if the seal isn't sealing......

Equally, the big hose on the res is on the hot side of the engine bay, so can get brittle with age and crack.  Let's the red stuff out there too.

FWIW, my R32 has never spilled any from the res.  I replaced all the hoses about 5 years ago when I did an engine transplant though, so it's not like it should leak!

  • 9 months later...

 Hey guys just wondering if you know what thread size and pitch this is i circled in yellow. I want to put a an fitting off it. Its the power steering feed line from reservoir. Thanks 

20191012_082142.jpg

Edited by notoriousnismo

no i dont have the original line. i have a astra p/s pump that in using and also a oil coolwr as its for a drift car. i have the correct size for tge hole just below it just not the circled one

You can get the fittings off "Chase Bays" who are an American company.  Pretty sure it's this one - https://www.chasebays.com/collections/an-fittings/products/14mm-power-steering-adapter-low-o-ring-fitting.  The fitting is cheap, the postage is stupid....

They've actually got some really cool stuff on there.

I just cut the end off my old one and welded on a 'weld on' AN fitting to it.  You might be able to get a pipe cheap from a wreckers?

 

Another option - https://www.streetweapons.net/products/s-chassis-power-steering-rack-an-conversion-fittings

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...