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WTB - R32 Headlight Switch

32_love

By 32_love,
in Wanted to Buy

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32_love Collaborator

32_love

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Hi guys,

 

I'm after a headlight switch for an R32. I was able to fix mine when it stuffed up last time but now the cap has melted off one of the pins and I think it might be easier just to replace the unit.

If you've got a spare switch (and you know it works) let me know what you're after for it.

I'm located in Brisbane, QLD and happy to pay postage for the right item.

 

Regards,

 

Aaron

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32_love Collaborator

32_love

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Thanks mate, seems they are out of stock on those at the moment. I did e-mail him though, so hopefully they'll get some more soon.

 

Still chasing a switch if anyone on here has one.

T-Rex Enthusiast

T-Rex

Posted
Posted

As above, only replace it if you have the headlight switch switching a relay coil. I had a brand new switch fail in 1hr of use (1 headlight would turn off) with no relay in the circuit.

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jmknights93 Mentor

jmknights93

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, T-Rex said:

As above, only replace it if you have the headlight switch switching a relay coil. I had a brand new switch fail in 1hr of use (1 headlight would turn off) with no relay in the circuit.

Is it recommended to run both headlights off the one relay? I haven't checked any threads on this yet.

Edit: I guess I sorta answered my own question. This diagram seems to be the way to go.

headlight-1.jpg.99486f886830fd87bb190d44055e30b1.jpg

Edited by jmknights93
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32_love Collaborator

32_love

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Thanks guys, and thanks for the diagram.

I'll look into these relays you've mentioned while I replace the switch once I find one.

 

Fortunately, I've gotten this far with my minimal knowledge but this might be a bit over my head but I'll give it a go.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Relays are easy.  You provide a dedicated (and fused) power supply cable to the relay (onto one side of the switched contact in the relay), with fat enough wiring to handle all the current that the load will use (which is one, or all 4 headlights, depending on what you choose to do).  You use the original wiring that used to power the load to switch the relay.  That generally means cutting that wire and placing the load side of it onto the switched contact of the relay and the incoming side of it onto the coil trigger of the relay.  Provide an earth for the coil (so the original wire will run the coil instead of the load).  When you turn the circuit on, the circuit simply makes the relay run instead of the original load, and the relay now supplies power from the new feed to the load.  The current required through the old original wiring (to run the relay's coil) is massively less than the original load's current draw.  The relay will have better contacts in it than the old switch, so should last for many years (and is easily replaceable, should it ever start playing up).  The new fat power supply puts max volts onto your headlights, getting you the most light you can out of the bulbs.  Win.

The only time relays in headlights can be tricky is when there are complicated changeovers between high and low beam.  Not really an issue in old Skylines though.  As I said, I simply put one relay directly behind each globe, so they are all switched on by their original wiring, but powered from a separate feed to each headlight.  Each relay has it's own fuse in it to handle the load, and there is a master fuse in the main fusebox where the headlight power is found anyway.

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