Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 10/06/2019 at 12:26 PM, sneakey pete said:

Don't think you'd be at a power level where a 76mm plazmaman would be overwhelmed, didn't have any IAT issues with mine doing 700 to the hubs last month. Might make packaging and purchase price a bit nicer

I like a bit of overkill, also the car will be abused at the track. So I suspect IATs will climb pretty quickly.

Where air density matters, cooler is better. 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Keeping the GTX flame alive, nearly 1.3bar in 3rd @ 4000rpm on 98RON and pretty low timing. She's a bit rich, but we'll get there. Haven't quite got the IAT compensation table right :)

Also found out there's a Quick Spool function with Halalkebab Elite, I like it.

image.thumb.png.49d5aadb7155d73e63d00c77df0b179a.png

  • Like 2
16 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Keeping the GTX flame alive, nearly 1.3bar in 3rd @ 4000rpm on 98RON and pretty low timing. She's a bit rich, but we'll get there. Haven't quite got the IAT compensation table right :)

Also found out there's a Quick Spool function with Halalkebab Elite, I like it.

 

Nice, that is decent!  

Legotech doesn't have charge temp estimation?

Curious to know what "quick spool" means in this instance, what kind of strategy are they using?

25 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Legotech doesn't have charge temp estimation?

Curious to know what "quick spool" means in this instance, what kind of strategy are they using?

I don't believe it does, nor have I had such experience. I generally just trim fuel based on IAT but that could be an ancient way of doing things.

Quick Spool feature, pretty much just sets the DC on 100% before you reach within say 50kPA of your targetted boost threshold before it accesses the base DC table followed by enabling closed loop boost control.

It's a bit hard to get it to not spike, just need a bit more time on the street and dyno.

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Quick Spool feature, pretty much just sets the DC on 100% before you reach within say 50kPA of your targetted boost threshold before it accesses the base DC table followed by enabling closed loop boost control.

Ahh ok, pretty standard - just never seen it called "quick spool" before.  Definitely a handy strategy for bringing it up near target quickly, slightly early "cracking" of the gate definitely has a tangible affect on spool.

2 hours ago, Lithium said:

Ahh ok, pretty standard - just never seen it called "quick spool" before.  Definitely a handy strategy for bringing it up near target quickly, slightly early "cracking" of the gate definitely has a tangible affect on spool.

hahah well Kebabtech literally calls it just that LOL

5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

hahah well Kebabtech literally calls it just that LOL

To be fair it pretty much does what it says, so can't exactly knock it :)   I was just amused as I was wondering what witchcraft they may have devised and it turned out to be a standard kind of thing that the setting usually has a much more mundane sounding name haha.

So how long before you put it on a dyno and send it? It's definitely looking like a potent combo, and not sure if you've seen the kind of numbers people are getting out of these turbos - but it could surprise some people 

3 minutes ago, Lithium said:

So how long before you put it on a dyno and send it? It's definitely looking like a potent combo, and not sure if you've seen the kind of numbers people are getting out of these turbos - but it could surprise some people 

Not too sure, been so busy as I've started a new job, finished renos at home, trying to spin up a new e-comm, etc. Car is definitely right down there on the priorities list.

I would like a new 100mm Plaz cooler first before I send it's mum and yeah been following Benchmark and having chats here and there with Ben and he's getting 400~440kW on these turbos (depending on rear housing). He did say he prefers the larger rear housings than the 0.83 divided ones.

 

  • 10 months later...

Thread revival :)

So finally was bothered to get my car on the dyno today, and results are pretty promising.

407kW with close to 2bar of boost, still having some small boost issues. 4 port solenoids are actually much harder to tune than expected. Needed to drop the solenoid frequency down to 16hz. Using the recommended 30hz was horrific, the car would overshoot into the moon. Initially the gate had a 1bar spring, however running a 0.5bar spring helped dramatically.

Shout out to Alex and the team at Birrong Automotive for letting me do r&d on my own shitbox. They do some wicked builds there and the worksmanship is amazing. If you need a serious built car, bring it there!

Will be back for round 2 when my Plazmaman cooler arrives, will try up the solenoid operating frequency too.

Forgot to set up the derived RPM so no RPM reading nor derived torque.

Logs off Kebabtech:

image.thumb.png.c14ca42d5e67d273d601608b70b4c072.png

 

Dyno sheet:

image.png.874db565455ac977a5b5f0b34c0ed389.png

  • Like 2

Looking a bit deeper into the data, the GM open body IAT sensor, still doesn't read fast enough. After I backed off, you can see the real IAT temperatures.

It peaked at 57 degrees C (for you flat earth Americans that's 135 degrees F), chilling down the charge temp will definitely net that extra power quite easily.

Also @Lithium you might be interested :) 

image.thumb.png.8ab85e9681afe1c83347672bd05e70d1.png

 

Base Ignition table

image.thumb.png.866eb142ddba94a033e6e81bb94366f3.png

Compensation table (yes it looks a but ugly, but will linearise it later)

image.png.897a6c0a5cfc3733f59f94e1f24b7b27.png

Well, it's as fast as you're gunna get, isn't it? It is always going to lag the real temperature if that happens to be changing as boost increases, intercooler heats up and rpm is changing by several hundred per second. As long as +/-10°C isn't going to kill anything, you should be OK.

And....another significant factor. The intercooler stores heat. When you load it up under a boost run then back off, the heat in the cooler transfers into the air coming through. You have a lot less air coming through when you back off, so it is reasonable to expect the core to drop a bit more heat into each unit of air and thus raise the temp of that air up very close to the core's temp, for those first second or so after you come off the hammer.

  • Like 1
12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Well, it's as fast as you're gunna get, isn't it? It is always going to lag the real temperature if that happens to be changing as boost increases, intercooler heats up and rpm is changing by several hundred per second. As long as +/-10°C isn't going to kill anything, you should be OK.

And....another significant factor. The intercooler stores heat. When you load it up under a boost run then back off, the heat in the cooler transfers into the air coming through. You have a lot less air coming through when you back off, so it is reasonable to expect the core to drop a bit more heat into each unit of air and thus raise the temp of that air up very close to the core's temp, for those first second or so after you come off the hammer.

That's also very true, good way of explaining it - thanks for that!

However, I am confident there's a bit more in with a better FMIC. I've already ordered a Plazmaman Pro core 2x weeks ago, but there's a big backlog (was hoping to get it before the dyno day but nope  :( )

Oh, I'm not arguing against putting a bigger core in it, or otherwise improving the cooling power. Go for your life on that. Just pointing out that I don't think a half second of continuing temperature rise after you back off is all the fault of the "slow" IAT sensor.

  • Like 1
16 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Looking a bit deeper into the data, the GM open body IAT sensor, still doesn't read fast enough. After I backed off, you can see the real IAT temperatures.

It peaked at 57 degrees C (for you flat earth Americans that's 135 degrees F), chilling down the charge temp will definitely net that extra power quite easily.

Also @Lithium you might be interested :) 

 

 

Base Ignition table

image.thumb.png.866eb142ddba94a033e6e81bb94366f3.png

Compensation table (yes it looks a but ugly, but will linearise it later)

image.png.897a6c0a5cfc3733f59f94e1f24b7b27.png

Nice, missed the tag initially sorry!     Hope you can iron out the boost control, holding it higher up high could deliver some solid numbers - not that it's shabby now :)

So with Haltech, is that correction table basically added to the base table?  So 7000rpm and 250kpaA it's running around 26deg timing on eth?

 

  • Like 1
14 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Nice, missed the tag initially sorry!     Hope you can iron out the boost control, holding it higher up high could deliver some solid numbers - not that it's shabby now :)

So with Haltech, is that correction table basically added to the base table?  So 7000rpm and 250kpaA it's running around 26deg timing on eth?

 

I believe from the data, the boost behaviour is due to the increase in IATs. I do have an IAT correction table which adds an extra 1% every 10 degrees the IAT climbs (probably not enough). 

And yes, that's how the Kebabtech works. You have a base ignition table and you add a correction/compensation based on ethanol. What you see in that table is when E85 = 100%. There's another table where you can adjust the blend too.

If you look at my dashboard view, second column 2nd row that's the actual timing, and 2nd column 3rd row is the base timing.

I'm confident I'll get it to that unicorn 600hp mark for internet bragging rights ?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...