Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm installing new rear rotors and rather have new brake shoes while at it.

Now at least on EBay brake shoes for the R33 GTST seem to be over priced.

Now I came across this ad:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-PROTEX-Brake-Shoes-Rear-For-NISSAN-SKYLINE-C211-2D-Cpe-RWD/152320034436?fits=Model%3ASkyline|Plat_Gen%3AR33&hash=item2376fb4684:g:sCgAAOSwqjhcHkrT

According to the compatibility list the r33 uses the same shoes as a Skyline Crossover which sounds hard to believe but would be great since much cheaper.

 

Any input appreciated .. thanks!

 

 

On 3/9/2019 at 9:30 PM, GTSBoy said:

Also completely unnecessary.  They are a handbrake shoe.  They don't wear out.

You don't know until you know :)  ... it's a 20 year old car and I rather have new ones at hand while replacing the rotors. Shoes might be cracked, brittle, worn,  or just fine ...

 

Edited by Torques

I remember forgetting the handbrake on and driving for half an hour in my dads vc commodore back in the days when i was a p plater. Only realised when i hopped out of the car and there was smoke coming out of the back wheels. This happened on several occasions, handbrake still worked fine and shoes still looked good when checked some time later.

I doubt your handbrake shoes copped anything like that so they should be fine but if you wanna change them, go ahead. Yoy just reminded me of that whole experience with the good old vc.

  • Like 1
32 minutes ago, admS15 said:

I remember forgetting the handbrake on and driving for half an hour in my dads vc commodore back in the days when i was a p plater. Only realised when i hopped out of the car and there was smoke coming out of the back wheels. This happened on several occasions, handbrake still worked fine and shoes still looked good when checked some time later.

This, on my VC Commodore back in the early 90s.  Drove home from my girlfriend's place, about 70km, in about 25 minutes**.  Got home to see this eerie glow coming out from between the spokes of the Dragways at the rear of the car.  Brake drums were at yellow heat.  Never missed a beat after that, for years.

**Yes, average speed on that trip was usually >160 km/h.

Haha .. thanks guys .. I left the handbrake on myself a couple of times while driving.

Not for too long though.

 

It's also good practise to slightly engage the hand brake from time to time while driving to clear the rust in the drum.

 

 

Edited by Torques
11 hours ago, Torques said:

It's also good practise to slightly engage the hand brake from time to time while driving to clear the rust in the drum.

I use the handbrake at full crank to brake check kunts who are tailgating me.  No brake lights gives them an even bigger scare.

  • Haha 3
  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/16/2019 at 12:04 AM, GTSBoy said:

I use the handbrake at full crank to brake check kunts who are tailgating me.  No brake lights gives them an even bigger scare.

I do that tooo ! That will teach 'em ! :)

 

So to conclude this post ... the brake shoes I did order did not fit and I decided to re-ruse the old ones.

One side was thinner than the other and quite glazed, so I suspect it had not been adjusted correctly.

 

I gave both sides a treatment with sanding paper, and I suspect that these pads were the Nissan ones form when the car rolled down the assembly line.

 

First 2 pictures are from the worn pad, 3rd is the other side which I cleaned up and slightly sanded.

 

P_20190323_141912_1_p-01.jpg

P_20190323_183757_1_p-01.jpg

P_20190324_195519_1_pa.jpg

P_20190323_195651-01.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...