Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day, thought I'd add my two cents on a few of the points raised. 

Just to clarify, 50:50 water meth mix does burn, whether you mixed it by weight or by volume. I conducted this test recently and was surprised by the results. 

If you plan on tuning the car to be water  meth dependant, make sure you have some kind of fail safe. I have done a number of setups using various brands of ecus, including Link. I usually use the 0-5v input from the flow sensor to activate overlay ignition table and fuel trim. If the voltage goes over or under a set window, due to a flow fault, it will deactivate the overlay tables, keeping the engine safe. I have only set done this up using Aquamist systems so I'm not sure if the system you are using has this capability. 

Cheers.  

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7902951
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, JGB1600 said:

Just to clarify, 50:50 water meth mix does burn, whether you mixed it by weight or by volume.

How did you test that? When I did it no way would it light. I used a spray bottle onto a flame and it always put it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7902957
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

How did you test that? When I did it no way would it light. I used a spray bottle onto a flame and it always put it out.

I tested it with 100ml of 50 50 by weight and again by mass. Poured them into small containers and lit them up. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7902963
Share on other sites

A pool fire is a different thing.  The fame you bring to the surface heats the liquid, evaporating some methanol, which burns in the vapour phase on top of the pool.

A spray of 50:50 stands a good chance of smothering another flame, because there is so much ability for the spray's latent heat of evaporation to steal more heat than the flame can maintain.

/rocket science.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7902976
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

my bloody water pipe keeps popping out of the nozzle.

I have made sure the head is round and it is firmly pushed into the pneumatic head.

Could it be cable needs to have more loose section as vibration could be pulling it out ?

 

Could be. Those aem nozzles use a 1/4" push fit, what diameter tube are you using? 6mm tube fits and will pretty much fall out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7903117
Share on other sites

This might sound a bit stupid, but why do you need water / methanol injection to cool your charge unless your intercooler setup is garbage ? Plenty of 600 -700 Aussie kw at wheels setups without the need for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7903306
Share on other sites

I know

 

my intercooler is blitz so i would have hoped it is well known

 

can’t get hold of my tuner to confirm how car has been setup but very strange as at times it boosts to 17.2 psi and at times 15

 

Almost always boosts to 17 on cold but as soon as warm it is hit and miss so unsure of what it is

 

i assumed he is using air intake temp to control boost so using water injection to cool the temp

 

anyway engine runs better with cooler temp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7903308
Share on other sites

I run a Blitz LM spec 100mm on my 33 Gtr. 98 unleaded, 330kw at wheels, 22psi, HKS GT-SS turbos, stock radiator, stock thermostat, 700cc injectors, power fc, nismo 280l/hr fuel pump,  stock gtr intercooler piping, stock long engine. Just had hottest summer here with temps over 45 deg C for 4 months, no dramas. Something else is up with your setup.

Something tells me maybe you don't have what you think you have as the Blitz 100mm LM intercooler has less than 1 psi pressure drop at 1.5bar / 22 psi across core and cools enough for stupid hp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7903320
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, drifter17a said:

I know

 

my intercooler is blitz so i would have hoped it is well known

 

can’t get hold of my tuner to confirm how car has been setup but very strange as at times it boosts to 17.2 psi and at times 15

 

Almost always boosts to 17 on cold but as soon as warm it is hit and miss so unsure of what it is

 

i assumed he is using air intake temp to control boost so using water injection to cool the temp

 

anyway engine runs better with cooler temp

 

7 hours ago, BK said:

 

Don't worry about contacting your tuner. Get on this forum

https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/

and ask around for a tuner near you who has good knowledge of the RB engines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7903341
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Why would your intercooler heat soak on the dyno???  Didn't he have a big MuthaF@#king fan going hard on the front of the car?

WMI is to reduce knock when winding up the boost for more power.  Its a way of extending the mechanics limiting your existing setup.  Its not a bandaid for your problem.

And you probably should have asked on here before buying, the Snow performance Stage !!! and [from what others have said] Aquamist are the better systems because you can progressively add WMI using both vacuum/boost and IDC.

I have set mine to IDC 40% and all in by 70% AND 8psi and all in by 14psi.

Snow Performance sell a very neat solenoid valve for gravity drain.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476553-methanol/page/2/#findComment-7904646
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
    • Given it happened suddenly, and when you come on boost, I'd check all your inlet - hose clamps in place and no split rubber or silicone hoses. Even the hard to get to ones near the intercooler. It's possible air that went past the air flow meter is being dumped out a big hole.
×
×
  • Create New...