Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Method attached. I haven't done it myself just saved it from another member in case I should need it one day.

Transfer case rebuild or upgrade.doc 13.5 kB · 15 downloads

Thank you. 'File appears to be corrupted'  ??

Is there a pdf version? Sorry to be a pain

Setting the final clutch pack clearance after plate modification is key and requires doing the plate mod in two steps. Too tight (under 0.2mm) and transfer will drag plates constantly and burn out. Too loose and obviously doesn't fully lock. Proper way to get clearance is to change the front retaining plate thickness (they come in 0.2mm increments from about 4.6 - 7.0mm), so it's not actually "shimming" like adding or removing extra shims to change a clearance.

My old man does them all the time and have noticed a few particular specific things you have to watch out for when doing them, as you can stuff it up fairly easily if you don't know what you're doing. Off the top of my head you need to:

-Setup with the plate clutch pack clearance MUST be done the with Attesa actuator installed. If not the clearance will end up too tight and basically lock transfer up permanently.

-final plate arrangement count can't change ie. has to always start with 5.0mm retaining pressure plate at rear and change clearance with front retaining plate at circlip AND

- excluding the 2 retaining plates has to always end up at combined metal and friction plate count of 19 (from standard 7 friction 12 metal arrangement to 10 friction 9 metal or anywhere in between that)

-plate at each end of the 19 MUST be a friction disc, that contacts each retaining plate

-metal plates have to be carefully reassembled to make sure they don't block oil feed holes into drum (which they can)

-presoak friction discs in ATF before reassembly to embed fluid into material. Can rip off friction disc plate material on new unused plates if not done.

-checking transfer oil pump sealing

  • Like 3
  • 3 years later...

Thanks to the great information above, i have got stuck into my own transfer case upgrade.

I am using an R32 case.

Using the R32 5mm rear plate, i notice the first friction plate will not reach the internal splines.  If i run the plate anyway as a spacer and then chuck in a steel and another friction, the 2nd friction is just off the end of the splines.

Has anybody had any issues with this? I worry that when the 4wd is engaged it will not line up with the splines and will strip the teeth off the friction.

hub1.thumb.jpg.fca91e9addc67c53ad3db50ff78ae4fa.jpg

Backing plate installed

hub2.thumb.jpg.d76e303d14e4e6772f3cdd27b6dccd00.jpg

1st friction

hub3.thumb.jpg.1e3787b42e5af16c51b011fcdaedc68f.jpg

Any ideas?

Thanks

Dont do anything that your talking about regarding spacing - you've just f**ked up 

On 22/04/2019 at 10:45 AM, BK said:

Setup with the plate clutch pack clearance MUST be done the with Attesa actuator installed. If not the clearance will end up too tight and basically lock transfer up permanently.

So to elaborate you can't assemble the clutchpack drum outside of the transfer case, that's your problem. It's needs to be fully assembled including on the actuation side before you install any plates as stated above.

On 04/01/2023 at 3:36 AM, BK said:

So to elaborate you can't assemble the clutchpack drum outside of the transfer case, that's your problem. It's needs to be fully assembled including on the actuation side before you install any plates as stated above.

Yes i aware of that. I had pulled it out of the case to try and see why the bottom friction was not engaging on the drum. You can see in the photos that its miles off. I was asking to see if anybody had the same issue as it was the same on the 32 and 33 drum i had.

I pulled it completely apart and found the clips that hold the thrust had fallen out and were stopping the inner hub from going all the way to the bottom of the basket. There was no mention of this in the manual that i could find.

thrust.thumb.jpg.a9d93a0b135320609aa3782a81626d4f.jpg

I reassembled it and put a cable tie at the other end to keep the inner hub hard against the half washer clips until the front cover is installed. If it is pulled forward, the outer ring call fall off the half washers and stop the hub going all the way in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...