Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Method attached. I haven't done it myself just saved it from another member in case I should need it one day.

Transfer case rebuild or upgrade.doc 13.5 kB · 15 downloads

Thank you. 'File appears to be corrupted'  ??

Is there a pdf version? Sorry to be a pain

Setting the final clutch pack clearance after plate modification is key and requires doing the plate mod in two steps. Too tight (under 0.2mm) and transfer will drag plates constantly and burn out. Too loose and obviously doesn't fully lock. Proper way to get clearance is to change the front retaining plate thickness (they come in 0.2mm increments from about 4.6 - 7.0mm), so it's not actually "shimming" like adding or removing extra shims to change a clearance.

My old man does them all the time and have noticed a few particular specific things you have to watch out for when doing them, as you can stuff it up fairly easily if you don't know what you're doing. Off the top of my head you need to:

-Setup with the plate clutch pack clearance MUST be done the with Attesa actuator installed. If not the clearance will end up too tight and basically lock transfer up permanently.

-final plate arrangement count can't change ie. has to always start with 5.0mm retaining pressure plate at rear and change clearance with front retaining plate at circlip AND

- excluding the 2 retaining plates has to always end up at combined metal and friction plate count of 19 (from standard 7 friction 12 metal arrangement to 10 friction 9 metal or anywhere in between that)

-plate at each end of the 19 MUST be a friction disc, that contacts each retaining plate

-metal plates have to be carefully reassembled to make sure they don't block oil feed holes into drum (which they can)

-presoak friction discs in ATF before reassembly to embed fluid into material. Can rip off friction disc plate material on new unused plates if not done.

-checking transfer oil pump sealing

  • Like 3
  • 3 years later...

Thanks to the great information above, i have got stuck into my own transfer case upgrade.

I am using an R32 case.

Using the R32 5mm rear plate, i notice the first friction plate will not reach the internal splines.  If i run the plate anyway as a spacer and then chuck in a steel and another friction, the 2nd friction is just off the end of the splines.

Has anybody had any issues with this? I worry that when the 4wd is engaged it will not line up with the splines and will strip the teeth off the friction.

hub1.thumb.jpg.fca91e9addc67c53ad3db50ff78ae4fa.jpg

Backing plate installed

hub2.thumb.jpg.d76e303d14e4e6772f3cdd27b6dccd00.jpg

1st friction

hub3.thumb.jpg.1e3787b42e5af16c51b011fcdaedc68f.jpg

Any ideas?

Thanks

Dont do anything that your talking about regarding spacing - you've just f**ked up 

On 22/04/2019 at 10:45 AM, BK said:

Setup with the plate clutch pack clearance MUST be done the with Attesa actuator installed. If not the clearance will end up too tight and basically lock transfer up permanently.

So to elaborate you can't assemble the clutchpack drum outside of the transfer case, that's your problem. It's needs to be fully assembled including on the actuation side before you install any plates as stated above.

On 04/01/2023 at 3:36 AM, BK said:

So to elaborate you can't assemble the clutchpack drum outside of the transfer case, that's your problem. It's needs to be fully assembled including on the actuation side before you install any plates as stated above.

Yes i aware of that. I had pulled it out of the case to try and see why the bottom friction was not engaging on the drum. You can see in the photos that its miles off. I was asking to see if anybody had the same issue as it was the same on the 32 and 33 drum i had.

I pulled it completely apart and found the clips that hold the thrust had fallen out and were stopping the inner hub from going all the way to the bottom of the basket. There was no mention of this in the manual that i could find.

thrust.thumb.jpg.a9d93a0b135320609aa3782a81626d4f.jpg

I reassembled it and put a cable tie at the other end to keep the inner hub hard against the half washer clips until the front cover is installed. If it is pulled forward, the outer ring call fall off the half washers and stop the hub going all the way in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...