Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Recently had my 350GT (purchased 2 months ago) serviced and was told I had the following issues with approx. prices to have them fixed:

* Rear brake pads (estimated approximately $180)
* Inoperative high mount stop lamp (estimated approximately $250 repaired/ approximately $190 second-hand)

* Front lower control arms (estimated approximately $800 for both sides)
* Worn rear sway bar links (estimated approximately $250 for both sides)
* Worn rear wheel bearings (estimated approximately $1100 for both sides)

How are the prices on these? They seem excessive but just wanted someone with knowledge to validate it for me.

Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by jsmit94
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476814-work-to-be-done-on-my-350gt/
Share on other sites

Did they say what's wrong with the front control arms? Could the bushings just be replaced for a lot of those?
SuperPro/Whiteline make a lot of bushings for V35.

Some of those prices seem a bit steep, depends on if they're using OEM parts and what their hourly rate is for labour.

1 hour ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Did they say what's wrong with the front control arms? Could the bushings just be replaced for a lot of those?
SuperPro/Whiteline make a lot of bushings for V35.

Some of those prices seem a bit steep, depends on if they're using OEM parts and what their hourly rate is for labour.


 

Well he said that the bushes were 'broken', and then he said the whole control arms need replacing. 

The cars steering pulls pretty badly to the left, is this a symptom of that?

Edited by jsmit94

The brake pad price is fine, for decent pads + fitting.

The highmount brake light price could be fine or it could be ridiculous.  Depends on why it's dead, what needs to be replaced.

i concur with Leroy that the rest of the prices look a bit mad.  I wouldn't expect to pay that much for the rear wheel bearings.  Maybe half that, maybe a bit more than half. The control arms almost certainly don't need to be replaced.  New bushes.  The ARB links can't be that expensive.  I just put 4 onto my car for less than that.  The most expensive Whiteline ones are only ~$150 and they take 15 minutes to swap on the hoist.

Holy shit that wheel bearing price....

I just had both the rears done on my v36.. $250 for brand new ones shipped and $220 for installation. 
$1100 is insane.

Rear brake pads you can do yourself (unless you prefer not) and save the labour cost.
 

2 hours ago, The Max said:

Your mechanic is (figuratively) a rapist. Find someone either honest or who actually knows how to fix cars with the right amount of effort and parts.

yeah seems like it now.. Thought I could trust someone who says they have worked as a mechanic in Japan, says they specialise in Jap imports and actually sources parts through their Japanese business to not rip me off, considering the experience they have. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to go to in Sydney? 
I'm from around Bankstown, so anywhere closeish to me (an hour away max) would be awesome.

Edited by jsmit94
8 hours ago, jsmit94 said:

yeah seems like it now.. Thought I could trust someone who says they have worked as a mechanic in Japan, says they specialise in Jap imports and actually sources parts through their Japanese business to not rip me off, considering the experience they have. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to go to in Sydney? 
I'm from around Bankstown, so anywhere closeish to me (an hour away max) would be awesome.

To be honest dude my local ultratune services mine. Majority of 350z parts will fit your car so any mechanic will do it fine.

  • Like 1

Go to Adrian's Auto Centre at 100 Parramatta Rd Croydon. The workshop access is in the lane behind the car dealership. He's the guy I go to when it's not something I can do in my own driveway. No, he doesn't charge dealership prices and definitely runs an honest workshop.

11 hours ago, jsmit94 said:

yeah seems like it now.. Thought I could trust someone who says they have worked as a mechanic in Japan, says they specialise in Jap imports and actually sources parts through their Japanese business to not rip me off, considering the experience they have. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to go to in Sydney? 
I'm from around Bankstown, so anywhere closeish to me (an hour away max) would be awesome.

I've been working on Japanese cars for over 25 years (I'm 30), I can source parts directly from Jesse Streeter (who lives in Japan) and partsouq (UAE).

Don't believe everything people say.

I sorted the high mount stop light on my old 250GT for $12.50 plus my own time - bought a Red 12 volt SMD LED strip from eBay, mounted it to a piece of black plastic and glued the whole thing into the existing housing. Looked great, worked great, passed inspection with zero issues

1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

I've been working on Japanese cars for over 25 years (I'm 30), I can source parts directly from Jesse Streeter (who lives in Japan) and partsouq (UAE).

Don't believe everything people say.

I guess it was more the reviews on their business that made me believe them, didn't expect someone with such good reviews to be so overpriced lol. I don't doubt that their work is good, but price-wise I think I will go elsewhere.

On 4/29/2019 at 3:15 PM, DashyyPC said:

Holy shit that wheel bearing price....

I just had both the rears done on my v36.. $250 for brand new ones shipped and $220 for installation. 
$1100 is insane.

Rear brake pads you can do yourself (unless you prefer not) and save the labour cost.
 

Where did you order the bearings from?

21 hours ago, fatz said:

Cofff have whole rear hubs in Sydney for a slab of beer

 

cooooofffdddd

haha I appreciate the offer man but because this car came with no evidence at all of any work that was done to it, i'd rather go to a place where I can get a tax invoice to show for it. Thanks anyways legend ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...