Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Recently had my 350GT (purchased 2 months ago) serviced and was told I had the following issues with approx. prices to have them fixed:

* Rear brake pads (estimated approximately $180)
* Inoperative high mount stop lamp (estimated approximately $250 repaired/ approximately $190 second-hand)

* Front lower control arms (estimated approximately $800 for both sides)
* Worn rear sway bar links (estimated approximately $250 for both sides)
* Worn rear wheel bearings (estimated approximately $1100 for both sides)

How are the prices on these? They seem excessive but just wanted someone with knowledge to validate it for me.

Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by jsmit94
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476814-work-to-be-done-on-my-350gt/
Share on other sites

Did they say what's wrong with the front control arms? Could the bushings just be replaced for a lot of those?
SuperPro/Whiteline make a lot of bushings for V35.

Some of those prices seem a bit steep, depends on if they're using OEM parts and what their hourly rate is for labour.

1 hour ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Did they say what's wrong with the front control arms? Could the bushings just be replaced for a lot of those?
SuperPro/Whiteline make a lot of bushings for V35.

Some of those prices seem a bit steep, depends on if they're using OEM parts and what their hourly rate is for labour.


 

Well he said that the bushes were 'broken', and then he said the whole control arms need replacing. 

The cars steering pulls pretty badly to the left, is this a symptom of that?

Edited by jsmit94

The brake pad price is fine, for decent pads + fitting.

The highmount brake light price could be fine or it could be ridiculous.  Depends on why it's dead, what needs to be replaced.

i concur with Leroy that the rest of the prices look a bit mad.  I wouldn't expect to pay that much for the rear wheel bearings.  Maybe half that, maybe a bit more than half. The control arms almost certainly don't need to be replaced.  New bushes.  The ARB links can't be that expensive.  I just put 4 onto my car for less than that.  The most expensive Whiteline ones are only ~$150 and they take 15 minutes to swap on the hoist.

Holy shit that wheel bearing price....

I just had both the rears done on my v36.. $250 for brand new ones shipped and $220 for installation. 
$1100 is insane.

Rear brake pads you can do yourself (unless you prefer not) and save the labour cost.
 

2 hours ago, The Max said:

Your mechanic is (figuratively) a rapist. Find someone either honest or who actually knows how to fix cars with the right amount of effort and parts.

yeah seems like it now.. Thought I could trust someone who says they have worked as a mechanic in Japan, says they specialise in Jap imports and actually sources parts through their Japanese business to not rip me off, considering the experience they have. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to go to in Sydney? 
I'm from around Bankstown, so anywhere closeish to me (an hour away max) would be awesome.

Edited by jsmit94
8 hours ago, jsmit94 said:

yeah seems like it now.. Thought I could trust someone who says they have worked as a mechanic in Japan, says they specialise in Jap imports and actually sources parts through their Japanese business to not rip me off, considering the experience they have. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to go to in Sydney? 
I'm from around Bankstown, so anywhere closeish to me (an hour away max) would be awesome.

To be honest dude my local ultratune services mine. Majority of 350z parts will fit your car so any mechanic will do it fine.

  • Like 1

Go to Adrian's Auto Centre at 100 Parramatta Rd Croydon. The workshop access is in the lane behind the car dealership. He's the guy I go to when it's not something I can do in my own driveway. No, he doesn't charge dealership prices and definitely runs an honest workshop.

11 hours ago, jsmit94 said:

yeah seems like it now.. Thought I could trust someone who says they have worked as a mechanic in Japan, says they specialise in Jap imports and actually sources parts through their Japanese business to not rip me off, considering the experience they have. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to go to in Sydney? 
I'm from around Bankstown, so anywhere closeish to me (an hour away max) would be awesome.

I've been working on Japanese cars for over 25 years (I'm 30), I can source parts directly from Jesse Streeter (who lives in Japan) and partsouq (UAE).

Don't believe everything people say.

I sorted the high mount stop light on my old 250GT for $12.50 plus my own time - bought a Red 12 volt SMD LED strip from eBay, mounted it to a piece of black plastic and glued the whole thing into the existing housing. Looked great, worked great, passed inspection with zero issues

1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

I've been working on Japanese cars for over 25 years (I'm 30), I can source parts directly from Jesse Streeter (who lives in Japan) and partsouq (UAE).

Don't believe everything people say.

I guess it was more the reviews on their business that made me believe them, didn't expect someone with such good reviews to be so overpriced lol. I don't doubt that their work is good, but price-wise I think I will go elsewhere.

On 4/29/2019 at 3:15 PM, DashyyPC said:

Holy shit that wheel bearing price....

I just had both the rears done on my v36.. $250 for brand new ones shipped and $220 for installation. 
$1100 is insane.

Rear brake pads you can do yourself (unless you prefer not) and save the labour cost.
 

Where did you order the bearings from?

21 hours ago, fatz said:

Cofff have whole rear hubs in Sydney for a slab of beer

 

cooooofffdddd

haha I appreciate the offer man but because this car came with no evidence at all of any work that was done to it, i'd rather go to a place where I can get a tax invoice to show for it. Thanks anyways legend ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...