Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys...i finally found a sik R33 GTS-T only problem is some d!ck talked my dad into thinking the car is way to powerful for a P plater...(probably rite) anyway my dad said it's all cool for me to buy it..BUT i have to make the turbo not work AT ALL... :S anyway i was just wondering how do i do this....and how much will it cost...and will i be able to just turn the tubo back on lata. what other things will this effect...eg fuel going into the engine etc.. thanks for ur help guys. need quick reply though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47683-help-turbo-question/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hmmm, i don't know a lot bout engines, but you may be able to turn the boost down quite low? Can also install more restrictive air intakes. These would reduce the power BUT, it doesn't really matter in regards to Power to Weight/Ratio rule as the rule goes off "FACTORY FIGURES" - Meaning no matter what you do, a turbo R33 coupe is always going to be over the power to weight. But you could get a non-turbo R33 and THEN turbo that, and you'd be fine, because the factory figures for a non-turbo are ok for power to weight. Bit silly isn't it? :(

cheers.

if u get a machanic certificate saying it's been de-tuned then they accept that. but i want to be able to turn the turbo back on afta about a year so i don't wanna buy a non turbo and then sell then buy another GTS-T. my dad just doesn't want me to get any boost. thinks i'll kick the back out on a corner to easily

buying a non turbo then changing it to a turbo is too expensive. It will also cost you money if you buy a gts-t and then spend the time f**king around with it detuning it. The best solution would probably be

a)just to buy a shitbox for this year, and then buy a gts-t next year.

b)If you already have a car, dont buy anything. just hold off your purchase until your allowed to be able to run full boost.

buying a non turbo then changing it to a turbo is too expensive. It will also cost you money if you buy a gts-t and then spend the time f**king around with it detuning it. The best solution would probably be  

a)just to buy a shitbox for this year, and then buy a gts-t next year.  

b)If you already have a car, dont buy anything. just hold off your purchase until your allowed to be able to run full boost.

Should of done that, waited myself, but didnt, cost me upwords of 8G's to convert to turbo with minor mods.

As far as i know just turn boost to 0 with a boost controller and the turbo will never spool up.

If thats any help

1) You cant turn off a turbo

2) You cant de-tune it and get it "certified" by vic-rods standards

Do yourself a favour, guy a shitbox and drive it around for 2-3 years first.

If you smash it it dont matter, insurance is cheap and affordable too

There is a good place in Thomastown on Mahoneys rd - 308 i think the number was...

Me and dj_lethal just brought some daily driver bombs and cost us like $1700 each and there are in A1 condition mechanically.

Get a bomb

r31 nismoid is right. it would be a lot easier and cheaper just to buy a shitbox until you are allowed to get a gts-t and be able to run decent boost levels. i personally dont see a point in buying a r33 gtst then spending the time and money buggerising round with it to basically disable the turbo so to speak. just my opinion anyway

i thought it was real easy to stop the turbo all u do is open the wastegate yeah and remove the actuator and that's it...then i can just put it bak on after bout a year of driving by myself..it's just so i don't crash it that easily...only 3rd party insurance :S i don't wanna waste time gettin another car then selling and then gettin a GTS-T

hey guys...i finally found a sik R33 GTS-T only problem is some d!ck talked my dad into thinking the car is way to powerful for a P plater...(probably rite) anyway my dad said it's all cool for me to buy it..BUT i have to make the turbo not work AT ALL... :S        anyway i was just wondering how do i do this....and how much will it cost...and will i be able to just turn the tubo back on lata. what other things will this effect...eg fuel going into the engine etc.. thanks for ur help guys. need quick reply though

aahahahaa

1. Turbo can only run Factory Boost Lvl which is 0.4bar, even with a ebc it can not be turn down lower than that (ps i have try)

2. P's + turbo = bad news,

Its got nothing to do with u being young or anything like that trust me, i own an r33 gts-t and im only 17, but i can tell u all the money i make goes into the car or goes towards saving for something. Things like clutch, shocks, tyres can go at any time and cost alot to replace.

Also fuel and insurance isnt cheap, yeah go 3rd party, i did but when u hit someone see how long it takes u to just get enough money to fix your car or even pay the excess (mine is around $1000)

Guest Slide

buy a dual stage boost controller set 1st setting to really low for when your dad knows

then set the 2nd stage to what ever you want.

what dad doesnt know wont hurt him.

just dont boost it into a Gutter,tree,house,car etc as this would give it away.

turbod cars are meant to utilise the extra air imput and extraction from the turbo i have turned mine down for a day to see what happened to about 2psi and it spikes to 7psi anyway.

just retard the effects of the turbo by turning the angle sensor you will feel more engine and less turbo but it will still be there wouldnt recommend for long time though and should be properly detuned by specialist Skyline Doctor

This thread would be the WORST I have ever seen for people who know fu(k all giving technical advice.

Firstly. A Boost controller can not turn your boost down lower than the pressure set by the spring in the wastegate actuator. In the case of a R33, 5 PSI.

Secondly. Even with the wastegate wired open the turbo will eventually spool up to some extent. doubt it would develop much boost until near redline.

Thirdly. Take the advice of people who have been there before... BUY A SH!TBOX for a year.

If it is your first car you WILL crash it or damage it in some other way trust me. If you want to stay with a sporty import Nissan, get a Silvia Q (non turbo). They are cheap as dirt for what they are.

Not that you will probably listen. I know I wouldn't have when I was your age. :-)

Guest Slide

1: what i posted was a suggestion not technical advise

2:I were questioning a post by ADZO about the wastegate

here is his thought

disconnect the waistgate actuator then wire the gate open or pull hose off boost guage

here is my question

wouldnt disconnecting the wastegate actuator confuse the computer into beleiving it is runin lotsa boost or no boost?

if you put some thought into my post it says!

turbod cars are meant to utilise the extra air imput and extraction from the turbo i have turned mine down for a day to see what happened to about 2psi and it spikes to 7psi anyway.

3: it is not me wanting to buy 1

i already have 1

consentrate or that cholesterol will catch upto you really fast

4 just because you older it doesnt mean you know more it just means you have made more mistakes to learn from.

Why be a bully PTR33 just trying to help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...