Link G4+ r33 skyline

[Blakeo]

After making a couple threads and doing research I came to terms with the fact to do it properly I'd need to spend money on a link or haltech ecu. Link being the choice as value wise it outshines haltech. 

Link supports e-throttle so I can delete the iacv too which is beneficial to me as it has been a bit faulty and cleans up my ffp install. 

How would I go about setting up the e-throttle and what is general used? 

[KiwiRS4T]

In general people are trying to get rid of their fly by wire rather than the other way round but I guess someone will have done it. I see you are determined to spend up to $3K to avoid upgrading your AFM.  You will need the Link, a MAP sensor ( the built in one does not have enough range for serious boost), an IAT sensor, boost solenoid and an auxiliary loom. You could save money by getting the G4+ Atom (see link) for about $1K less but you have to wire it yourself.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/listing-2201107555.htm?rsqid=d683fe41f0a84951a675619be37d672e-003

You can also save a few bucks by not buying the Link boost solenoid as it is just a re-labelled Mac valve (35A AAA DDBA 1BA) which you can buy elsewhere for less. Also I used a GM MAP sensor instead of the Link one.

Good luck!

[Blakeo]

On 6/25/2019 at 6:22 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

In general people are trying to get rid of their fly by wire rather than the other way round but I guess someone will have done it. I see you are determined to spend up to $3K to avoid upgrading your AFM.  You will need the Link, a MAP sensor ( the built in one does not have enough range for serious boost), an IAT sensor, boost solenoid and an auxiliary loom. You could save money by getting the G4+ Atom (see link) for about $1K less but you have to wire it yourself.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/listing-2201107555.htm?rsqid=d683fe41f0a84951a675619be37d672e-003

You can also save a few bucks by not buying the Link boost solenoid as it is just a re-labelled Mac valve (35A AAA DDBA 1BA) which you can buy elsewhere for less. Also I used a GM MAP sensor instead of the Link one.

Good luck!

The link has better engine protection, I thought e-throttle was better because it controls the idle and you can delete the IACV and some vacuum lines which are associated with that. 

I haven't found many people who are doing that in saying this. I am happy to stay fly by cable, I will order the MAC valve now. Also my car only runs 20psi of boost is the onboard 3 bar map sensor not good enough?

[djr81]

On ‎6‎/‎25‎/‎2019 at 6:22 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

 You will need the Link, a MAP sensor ( the built in one does not have enough range for serious boost), 

Just curious about this.  Link say it is 4 bar.

[WR33KD]

Link is normally 2.5 Bar standard, best to buy the 4 bar, 3 bar boost is heaps and heaps.

Fly by wire is a waste of time and money on an rb, this of the extra power you could buy.

 

Big boy v8s get rid of them as the fear of the throttle staying open is all to real and a quick stab of the gas won’t fix it 

[djr81]

R33 ECU is 4 bar for the pnp version.

[KiwiRS4T]

11 hours ago, djr81 said:

Just curious about this.  Link say it is 4 bar.

Bought My Link about 10 years ago. I guess they have upgraded the built in MAP sensor.

[WR33KD]

Mine wasn’t 4 bar it was 2.5 and had to buy a 4bar 

[KiwiRS4T]

Yep just checked the website - it says integrated 4 bar map sensor. One of the good things about Link - continuous development and life time guarantee. Also on-line or phone support.

So check with your supplier that they haven't got old stock. You can buy direct from Link (although you won't get it any cheaper that way).

[Murray_Calavera]

Have a look at the Link KnockBlock, you might find it's worth going for as well. 

[Blakeo]

On 6/25/2019 at 6:22 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

In general people are trying to get rid of their fly by wire rather than the other way round but I guess someone will have done it. I see you are determined to spend up to $3K to avoid upgrading your AFM.  You will need the Link, a MAP sensor ( the built in one does not have enough range for serious boost), an IAT sensor, boost solenoid and an auxiliary loom. You could save money by getting the G4+ Atom (see link) for about $1K less but you have to wire it yourself.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/listing-2201107555.htm?rsqid=d683fe41f0a84951a675619be37d672e-003

You can also save a few bucks by not buying the Link boost solenoid as it is just a re-labelled Mac valve (35A AAA DDBA 1BA) which you can buy elsewhere for less. Also I used a GM MAP sensor instead of the Link one.

Good luck!

Hey Kiwi, can you link me to a genuine Mac Valve, I purchased one off ebay that said it was genuine but when it arrived today its unbranded and looks like junk.

[KiwiRS4T]

3 hours ago, Blakeo said:

Hey Kiwi, can you link me to a genuine Mac Valve, I purchased one off ebay that said it was genuine but when it arrived today its unbranded and looks like junk.

Ebay from China (or is this what you bought?) about $30 they look right although they have made in Taiwan on them. The Australian distributors for Mac are:

http://www.macvalves.com/distributors/pacific/