Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Currently in the middle of replacing the timing chain on my VQ25DD (2002 M35 Stagea).

While I've got the engine at TDC, and the crankshaft mark and intake cam sprocket marks lined up with the old chain markers. I've found that the top stretch of old chain between intake cam sprockets was too spread apart, so that the new chain can't reach the last tooth to make the new chain marks align with the sprockets.

Hopefully the photos make it clear what I mean. Comparing that section of the old and new chains you can see the difference in length of about half a chain link. The two photos of the cam sprockets show one mark lined up, and the other as best I can make it reach - one tooth too short for the sprocket mark.

The best thing I can think to do is stow the tensioner on one or each of the cam chains and that might give me enough play to nudge the chain over that last tooth. 

Any better ideas or if this is ok to do, or even work as I'm hoping?

hoping @scotty nm35 might be able to weigh in...

Also looking for recommendation on the silicone/rtv product to use to reseal the case on when the time comes.

cheers!

 

IMG_2632.JPG

IMG_2631.JPG

IMG_2630.JPG

IMG_2629.JPG

This might be a silly question (as I don't know these motors at all), but in your chain side-by-side photo, you have 2 pink marks on the top (new?) chain lined up with 2 orange marks on the other chain. I can see the 3rd mark on the top chain is orange.

So whilst all 3 marks on the bottom chain are orange, is there any possibility that you're lining up the wrong marks there?

With the silly question out of the way - I note that the cam gears have slotted holes. Would these be to provide you with the 1/2 a tooth's worth of adjustment to account for chain stretch?

This might be a silly question (as I don't know these motors at all), but in your chain side-by-side photo, you have 2 pink marks on the top (new?) chain lined up with 2 orange marks on the other chain. I can see the 3rd mark on the top chain is orange.
So whilst all 3 marks on the bottom chain are orange, is there any possibility that you're lining up the wrong marks there?
With the silly question out of the way - I note that the cam gears have slotted holes. Would these be to provide you with the 1/2 a tooth's worth of adjustment to account for chain stretch?


No such thing as a silly question.
Photo colour may be misleading, the old chain is two pink for cams, one orange for crank. The new chain is the same but old chain has slight colour fade.

As it happens, I’ve resolved the issue by slightly rotating the cams as required using the hexagonal ring. This is actually mentioned in the manual I just found for the 2003 G35 coupe. Just have to be very careful you’re not turning the cams to break a valve.

I also realised each intake and exhaust cam sprocket marks align with subtle bumps formed on the inside of the rear chain case at TDC. This let me determine that the LHS cams were slightly off mark while the RHS were on mark. Made it easy to choose which one to turn to fit the chain and also have some confidence you’re within reasonable margin of safety as you move the cams a degree or two.
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

@scotty nm35hey mate completely of topic - I’m trying Message you on sau but can’t get a hold of you re: injector wiring for c34 rb25det - can you pm me so I can’t get in contact 

  • 4 months later...
2 hours ago, Riccardo said:

Can anyone help where too buy one of these timing chain kits for the Vq25dd stagea. Can only find on ebay. Can you only get them from Nissan? 

No you can also get them from Ebay. Have you tried messaging Nicko or Hutchwilco?

  • 1 month later...
On 04/03/2020 at 6:16 PM, Riccardo said:

Can anyone help where too buy one of these timing chain kits for the Vq25dd stagea. Can only find on ebay. Can you only get them from Nissan? 

You can buy those kits in your local Nissan dealer but you will have to wait roughly for about 6 weeks to get all spares parts delivered from Japan, dont think any dealer across the country would have those kits stock up.

Anyway I've purchased my parts in Dubai long time ago and a wallet damage was around $2000 for a full cart of extra parts you would also need if you pop her cherry for a full replacement of any worn/defected internal parts.

 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/4/2020 at 11:01 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

No you can also get them from Ebay. Have you tried messaging Nicko or Hutchwilco?

How's it going?

Just came across this: they also sell the parts

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...