Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 minutes ago, BK said:

I don't know what cat he's running but the current 80mm Apexi super cats are 130cpi which is awesome.

They are also $1200 - $1400....

ouch.

Probably as awesome as their cat backs with 2.5" reducers inside.

Back on topic, I reckon with the de-cat his problems will go away, if not I think there's a "boost" rag somewhere in his pipe work. We've all been there before :D 

5 hours ago, Chrisko33 said:

Ok so the car has been chucked on the Dyno and it pulled 282kw with the de cat still a bit of where it should be

 

03352755-13B9-4BB4-B319-685C9B99AB92.jpeg

9026352A-C10F-4108-A6EB-BDA02281398E.jpeg

If they won't dyno it with the exhaust dropped do it yourself at home.

Yep, maybe the catback section to the muffler is more restrictive than the cat itself. Needs to be dynoed with front pipe only as I originally suggested and done myself to get a clear baseline of what's what. Are they saying they won't dyno it like that ?

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, BK said:

Yep, maybe the catback section to the muffler is more restrictive than the cat itself. Needs to be dynoed with front pipe only as I originally suggested and done myself to get a clear baseline of what's what. Are they saying they won't dyno it like that ?

Currently making them do that right now 

Ok so I took the cat straight off back on the dyno made 292kw boost spiked half a pound so there wasn’t much loss between previous run of 282kw with de cat and exhaust. I was expecting to see boost come on quicker still took until 4100-4200rpm. I’m being told valve springs are the issue and change the cooler 

EC13AA7C-8243-4C5D-A9A4-EB2269E0A35B.jpeg

2FB18559-E07D-4BD3-8921-4A49CE843663.jpeg

There's no evidence of valve springs on the charts, so unless they have good reason to say they think there's float, do the cooler first.

And by "do the cooler", I don't mean replace it. I mean tap into the pipe up and downstream of it and check the actual pressure drop across it.

A 10 kw improvement suggests there is an exhaust restriction so check the rear muffler at least. Stock cooler should be capable of more so as above check pressure either side. And consider trying another tuner.

I’m changing to a 3.5inch x force exhaust now and also doing a cooler pressure check, dare say I’ll be changing the cooler I gained 25kw just in exhaust restrictions so far. What’s to say my cooler isn’t stuffed at this point.Not gonna throw money at springs and cams just yet I’ll do a power run and report back also on the last run it had some slight mis fire on the 292kw run coil pack harness seems to be the suspect as I have brand new coil packs 

That slight misfire could also be CAS related, see if they've got the CAS filter enabled, I find Level 1 ~ 2 works well, but a brand new CAS or a trigger kit (crank, better cam, not as good as crank but better than the CAS) will fix heaps of problems.

2 hours ago, Chrisko33 said:

I’m changing to a 3.5inch x force exhaust now and also doing a cooler pressure check, dare say I’ll be changing the cooler I gained 25kw just in exhaust restrictions so far. What’s to say my cooler isn’t stuffed at this point.Not gonna throw money at springs and cams just yet I’ll do a power run and report back also on the last run it had some slight mis fire on the 292kw run coil pack harness seems to be the suspect as I have brand new coil packs 

Just checking - what coil packs did you get?

How is your fuel pump wired?  And how is the A/F ratio and injector duty cycle? 

I am asking because I had an episode with my pump not getting enough voltage.  The A/F ratio was fine but injector duty cycle was maxed out prematurely, and I lost about a good 40kw.  

3 hours ago, Stixbnr32 said:

Yeh but surely the tuner would figure that out pretty quickly.

The tuner figured out OP needs a cooler and valve springs.  I think it's pretty obvious those two items are getting the no confidence vote here.

  • Like 2
10 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

How is your fuel pump wired?  And how is the A/F ratio and injector duty cycle? 

I am asking because I had an episode with my pump not getting enough voltage.  The A/F ratio was fine but injector duty cycle was maxed out prematurely, and I lost about a good 40kw.  

Fuel pump is getting getting 12v that was checked when on the Dyno. Not sure what the duty cycle on injectors are I’ll find out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...