Jump to content
SAU Community

Control Arm Choices for R34 GTR ?

etang789
 Share

Recommended Posts

etang789 Community Regular

etang789

Posted
Posted (edited)

What are some control arm choices for R34 GTR ? I have Cusco Front and Rear Adjustable Control Arms now, and the front ones are busted. I would like to use this chance to replace everything, since Im building my engine as well. I don't drag race my R34 , only occasional track days and mostly aggressive mountain runs. Seems like not every brand makes a complete kit of control arms ... so any suggestions?

I'm looking at:

  1. RaceFab
  2. Ikeya Formula
  3. Nismo
  4. GKTech
  5. Voodoo13

 

Edited by etang789
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479356-control-arm-choices-for-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
On 16/12/2019 at 3:20 PM, BK said:

The 33 and 34 GTR arms are the same, and on my 33 I have Ikeya Formula arms front and back for over 12 years. Expensive but very good.

Correction. Been That long only just realised my rear upper control arms are JIC C304780. Same thing goes though, JIC is equally as good as Ikea. Ikeya formula. Whiteline seems to have the equally good equivalent too for the rear. The front though Ikeya hands down.

image.png.6b89d24ea1717cca100e7603234d7cd6.png

Here is the Ikeya fronts I'm using:

image.png.6dbb421cb29041656d11960ca71b6332.png

  • 1 month later...
etang789 Community Regular

etang789

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 12/28/2019 at 8:49 PM, BK said:

Correction. Been That long only just realised my rear upper control arms are JIC C304780. Same thing goes though, JIC is equally as good as Ikea. Ikeya formula. Whiteline seems to have the equally good equivalent too for the rear. The front though Ikeya hands down.

image.png.6b89d24ea1717cca100e7603234d7cd6.png

Here is the Ikeya fronts I'm using:

image.png.6dbb421cb29041656d11960ca71b6332.png

Thanks for the reply. No noise?

What are the difference between the one you are using and this one?

 

image.png.e4ba080654d1ba7ef0625a9b876bc052.png

http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/article/15016132.html

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

BK's do the adjustment with two plates that are slotted and so can slide in-out relative to each other, and use bolts through them to lock them together.

The bottom ones are the same as everybody else's. Just relies on big threaded rods and locknuts.

The bottom ones need to be adjusted carefully so that the same length change is made on both the front and rear half of the arm. The top ones are more guaranteed of correctly adjusting both halves, seeing as they are not halves! But a few people harbour worries about the types of arms that have sliding plates that lock together with through bolts as they fear they will shake loose. May or may not be founded fears.

The top ones are also spherical jointed on the upper inners and I don't think the new ones are.

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

Not really any noise I can detect in them but they are spherical so tightens everything right up. Regarding the top moving plates, they have a fine saw tooth design between them so they are adjusted in like 2 or 3 mm increments and lock plates together so they can't slip. The bolts would all have to substantially come loose for it to move, which has never happened in the time I've used them.

The inners pillow ball rods are also length adjustable too. I actually have Whiteline offset camber bushes in the outer too with these, so you end up getting 3 different points of camber adjustment on the front to get absolutely even length arms and spot on camber. (Completely overkill and not needed as you can start chasing your tail if you aren't up with what you're doing)

Wish there was something like this for the 32

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

How/where did your Cusco front arms break? And you are talking about upper, not lower? They are one of the most solid designs i've seen; adjustment is a bit limited but you can modify to get a 4th setting easy enough.

I have used those 2-piece ones with no issues, but they are only joined by the centre bolt which i wasn't a fan of. Much prefer a bracketed 1-piece arm.

  • 4 weeks later...
etang789 Community Regular

etang789

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 3/5/2020 at 3:35 PM, hardsteppa said:

How/where did your Cusco front arms break? And you are talking about upper, not lower? They are one of the most solid designs i've seen; adjustment is a bit limited but you can modify to get a 4th setting easy enough.

I have used those 2-piece ones with no issues, but they are only joined by the centre bolt which i wasn't a fan of. Much prefer a bracketed 1-piece arm.

so I may have to go with GKTech for the 1-piece front upper arm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...