Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rescently installed a du lock version 2 g sensor to my car to get my 4wd working again(1993 GTR).  took it out felt great to have the awd again.  it has a way better response to the front wheels although I really want it to act more aggressive in the front earlier in the corner. I realize gtr's are rear wheel base and shift to the front when needed.  I am a fairly aggressive driver and enjoy weekends at the track and love the circuit setting.  I want to leave my gtr in circuit mode all the time as its kind of a pain to keep changing it back default for daily driving. am I gunna burn up my diff or transfer case doing this?  I have a new transfer case and nitrogen canister with a new atessa pump.  more worried about burning my front diff out with to much constant front torque applied to diff. thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479574-du-lock-g-sensor-and-settings/
Share on other sites

quick question buddy, when I get the new diff should I run my 80w90 weight In the front or the 140w? I got limited slip in both weights as I was trying to make up for some slop in my front diff. I've done a ton of reading on old threads just curious about your thoughts, thanks m8.

Hi mate. I run a Quaife in front and rear. See in the drivetrain section, but essentially you should be running 75w-140 generally in the diffs front and rear if you don't want your diff crown wheel and pinion gears to wear out, although you do have a picture of a GTR in the snow. Where I'm from it's 45deg C + for 5 months of the year, so maybe 75w-90 GL5 in the snow time for you if you're worried, but the 75w-140 does have a wider viscosity range but be similar from cold, so in "theory" should still be ok in the cold.

ok thanks m8, I put a build thread up. I have no idea if its proper but its a start.  I don't drive the gtr in winter just a couple test drives after all the new parts so ill run the 140.  I see you own 2 gtrs that's wild m8. you like the 33 or 32 better? prob love em both eh...……..

21 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

its a done deal I ordered one from kuda.  thanks for the help

 

11 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

I got limited slip in both weights as I was trying to make up for some slop in my front diff

Here's an important point. It's not clear from your post whether you bought a 1.5-way or a Quaife. If you bought a Quaife, then they do not use LSD oil. There are no clutch plates or other friction surfaces in there to need the friction modifiers in LSD oil. Just normal diff oil is the ticket. If you bought a 1.5-way, then of course, LSD oil.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

 

Here's an important point. It's not clear from your post whether you bought a 1.5-way or a Quaife. If you bought a Quaife, then they do not use LSD oil. There are no clutch plates or other friction surfaces in there to need the friction modifiers in LSD oil. Just normal diff oil is the ticket. If you bought a 1.5-way, then of course, LSD oil.

glad you made this point I was under impression it is ok to use limited slip oils in non limited slip just not the other way around.  I went with a quaife. I will use normal 140w then thanks.

Exactly, it is ok to use LSD oil in a non LSD, not the other way around ( non LSD oil in LSD). Good stuff like Motol comp gear 75w-140, Castrol SAF-XA ect. is generally an LSD oil by design, but is still used in LSD, non LSD and dog box transmission applications. They don't need the LSD friction modifiers, but it doesn't hurt them. 

You will find nearly every dog box and performance diff manufacturers are specifying Motul Comp gear 75w-140 as it is considered the best in the business.

16 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

ok thanks m8, I put a build thread up. I have no idea if its proper but its a start.  I don't drive the gtr in winter just a couple test drives after all the new parts so ill run the 140.  I see you own 2 gtrs that's wild m8. you like the 33 or 32 better? prob love em both eh...……..

Yeah love em all. Got 3 GTRs now actually. 2 x 32s (the latest one is actually a joint project for my Dad and completely in pieces) and the 33. I guess I have the GTR bug...

The 33 is definitely a better base car but I see the 32s as a better platform to go all out on with heavy modification. To be honest I hate the inside dimensions of a 32, I don't fit properly, which is why the 33 feels better to be in. Seating and steering positions are much better in a 33 I think. That said most of the modification money goes into the 32, so Maybe I'm just retarded...?

Anyway you'll love the Quaife front

I hope so, I've got that du lock sensor dialed in real nice sure a big difference from a stock g sensor set up was worth every penny, the new quaife will be the icing on the cake. I would love to find a stock r33 gtr so I could go big power build for track/strip on the old 32. anyways thanks for the help throughout m8 will stay in touch. drive safe enjoy your gtr's

On 17/01/2020 at 6:46 PM, Piggaz said:

preparing the car to get this front diff in next week. I was wondering if I should just bite the bullet and swap a different diff in the rear as well. cars got 120,000 on the rear diff maybe time for upgrade or save my cash and go till she explodes if it ever will. let me know bro I got 3 weeks before I have to go back to work full time and I wont be able to do much on car till next year. thanks buddy.

Yes, the rears are awesome too. Just a question though, do you actually know how to reshim a differential so that the crown wheel and pinion gear have the correct backlash ? Remember they are not straight drop in items as the centres will be slightly different, requiring reset up. Also the rear is a pain in the arse to get in and out.

Again also, the Quaife rear only comes in 31 tooth rear diff half shaft spline centre, not the more common 30 tooth in R32 GTR, which opens up a world of pain trying to obtain these days as they are discontinued. R33 GTR non v spec mechanical rears are all 31 tooth, not R32s.

I just did some reading on that, which Is why I think im gunna rock my stock one till she acts up. I own a tree company in Canada and work on heavy equipment everyday, I have not replaced a gtr rear diff specifically but the shimming process is no different in my eyes from a large piece of equipment to a small car. its really just a fun thing for me to work on from time to time so if it takes me a year to replace the rear diff so be it haha. I like to learn and would love to tackle the job. I haven't run into anything yet that this site hasn't solved for me as well.  guys like yourself have been a big help in going through the gtr journey again.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...