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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got the car back

Results

Everything fits under the bonnet

A little more NVH from the Tuff Mounts, but nothing that annoys me, and it is really only noticeable at idle

New Walbro intank pump only, but the tank, lines, injectors and wiring harness was all cleaned and/or replaced 

Driving home, with the cabin aircon on, the IAT was at 40°c, before, on a hwy run, it sat on 50°c, typical traffic temps were 50-55°c

When I got stuck in slow traffic for about 5 km the IAT was still at 40°c, before that it would have been at 70°c stuck in traffic

After shutting down the car for about 1/2 hour the IAT was at 65°c on start up, it took less than 5 minutes to bring it back down to 40°c

I'm curious about how it will go when I press the blue switch, which isolates the cabin aircon and sends to the chiller only

Dyno thingie because internets

I've also got some Toyo R888R 275/40 17 to fit up, because the 255/40 17 RS4 fail miserably when giving it some beens, both from the dig as well as rolling on from 60kph

Will hit WSID soon, Spiro from Autotech said it just needs drag radials for a high 10, he laughed when I said I was putting on 275 R888R's to replace the RS4's, he said they won't hold and I need "real" drag radials in 275/40 17

Meh, tax time is coming up, and that is like free money

20220503_184107.thumb.jpg.60e64559495df29675264faae4cfc946.jpg

 

  • Like 3
On 12/04/2022 at 9:51 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It's not 2005, please don't use these pumps.

Wallahbro 450L/h pumps are great and quiet too.

Dont be like that, nothing wrong with the good old 044 for what it is, and Walbro pumps are far from being any better at reliability. The 044 current draw vs flow is excellent - a solid 300lph pump. If you're not controlling via PWM the Walbro 460 upwards pumps draw A LOT of current for what they are, and they bullshit their ratings. A 460 is 455 - 460lph a 0psi (375 at 40psi / 12v and 430lph at 40psi / 13.5v). I will agree they are bloody near silent though because of their turbine design.

AEM make an excellent E85 rated 044 version that flows 25% more (a genuine 400lph at 43psi pump) than an original 044 in the same frame and they draw significantly less (30% +) current than Walbros. Even their intank pumps shit on any Walbro pump for current vs fuel supply like an AEM genuine 340lph at 43psi pump that only draws roughly 12 - 14A, compared to one single Walbro sucking up to 25A (525lph at 0psi).

  • Like 1

That was why I went with the Bosch 540s they draw so much less current compared to the walbro, only issue was I ended up having to get the deatschwerks version because they have the check valve in them

  • Like 1
On 03/05/2022 at 8:43 PM, r32-25t said:

That was why I went with the Bosch 540s they draw so much less current compared to the walbro, only issue was I ended up having to get the deatschwerks version because they have the check valve in them

What's your beef with a no check valve pumps ? - one way valves are a good thing indeed so it doesn't have one, install one inline like a Speedflow.

If you meant pressure relief valve, they are good too as long as they are not set too low - the Bosch 540 has a 190psi installed in it.

So which DW brushed pump is equivalent to the BR540 ?

BR540 good pump but again bit of bullshit marketing - flows 460lph at 40psi so still massive, but not 540. Flow ratings for pumps like injectors should be at 40psi - 43psi / 3bar.

On 03/05/2022 at 8:39 PM, BK said:

Dont be like that, nothing wrong with the good old 044 for what it is, and Walbro pumps are far from being any better at reliability

I've had a 2x mates kill 044 pumps on dedicated E85 cars, not to mention they're so damn loud.

And somewhere on the classic nissansilvia forum someone did a tear down of one describing why/how they're not happy with ethanol/alcohol fuel types. Might have been Trent from Chequered Tuning under the URAS alias IIRC.

On 03/05/2022 at 10:13 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I've had a 2x mates kill 044 pumps on dedicated E85 cars, not to mention they're so damn loud.

And somewhere on the classic nissansilvia forum someone did a tear down of one describing why/how they're not happy with ethanol/alcohol fuel types. Might have been Trent from Chequered Tuning under the URAS alias IIRC.

Absolutely correct - Bosch themselves rate the 044 at 500hrs lifespan on E85 if you find the factory specifications.

AEM and now Deatschwerks have E85 compatible versions of the 044 to combat this - exactly the same dimensions and flow more.

And yes they are still a tiny bit loud but meh

  • Like 1
On 3/5/2022 at 9:49 PM, BK said:

What's your beef with a no check valve pumps ? - one way valves are a good thing indeed so doesn't have one, install one inline like a Speedflow.

If you meant pressure relief valve, they are good too as long as they are not set too low - the Bosch 540 has a 190psi installed in it.

So which DW pump is equivalent to the BR540 ?

BR540 good pump but again bit of bullshit marketing - flows 460lph at 40psi. Flow ratings for pumps like injectors should be at 40psi - 43psi / 3bar.

Because I’m using them in parallel I don’t want one pushing straight back through the other while it switched off

the dw400 is the same pump but with one way valves in the top and has a lower number due to DW doing their flow with pressure on top of them 

On 04/05/2022 at 12:13 AM, r32-25t said:

Because I’m using them in parallel I don’t want one pushing straight back through the other while it switched off

You've got a sex spec ECU, I would just PWM them at the same duty cycle based on engine load.

None of this staged business 😊

OEM++ 

On 5/3/2022 at 7:10 PM, mlr said:

40 17 to fit up, because the 255/40 17 RS4 fail miserably when giving it some beens, both from the dig as well as rolling on from 60kph

Will hit WSID soon, Spiro from Autotech said it just needs drag radials for a high 10, he laughed when I said I was putting on 275 R888R's to replace the RS4's, he said they won't hold and I need "real" drag radials in 275/40 17

He's right, the R888R is really for circuit stuff which is not what this is for....

You need a huge, pliable sidewall for drag. No track tyre is worth putting on, to the degree it's not worth going to the drags without them in your (or my) scenario. 

  • Like 1
On 04/05/2022 at 10:13 AM, Kinkstaah said:

He's right, the R888R is really for circuit stuff which is not what this is for....

You need a huge, pliable sidewall for drag. No track tyre is worth putting on, to the degree it's not worth going to the drags without them in your (or my) scenario. 

But I'm lazy and don't want to swap rims all the time, I can deal with the compromise.....I think.....

The R888R will have to be better than the RS4 though, and still good enough to plod along on a hwy in the rain

In the end the car is a streeter, and I'm not keen to put the wear on it that racing does to a car, I'm happy to give the car a hit or 2 to see how it goes on a sticky surface, but I want to avoid chasing 10ths, which is probably what I would do if I got drag radials, because I would be chasing a 10.99

If I can get a compromise between lots of wheel spin from the dig, and from rolling on at 60kph, to being able to hook at 60kph roll, I will be happy.......I think....for now......

I'll get the R888R's fitted tomorrow 

If it wasn't so bloody rainy all the time, and coming into winter, I would run drag radials

At least the winters don't seem to be getting as cold as a 20 years ago

Global warming has that going for it, pity global warming also means more rainfall 

I miss the drought.......

 

TL;DR. Tax time is coming soon, I might get another set of Gold FR1 17x9.5 and some M/T or M&H drag radials 🤣

You're thinking too conservative. Hit up Gumtree and find someone else's used rear pair. You want 16 or 15in with a nice big meaty sidewall that you swap when you get to the track.

For luls, do one run on the street tyres so you can go LOL WHOA THIS IS SO MUCH BETTER on things like MT ET Streets.

Arrrrggggggg

One of the welds for tapping in the interchiller had a pin hole

The car basically was losing gas even before it hit the dyno

Hence why the highest IAT on the dyno was 36°c, then 40 driving it home, then 50°c ladt night, then 68°c taking it back to the wksp at 0800 this morning 

Hopefully it will be fixed by close of play tomorrow, I promised my daughter a "daddy daughter day" involving a early breakfast, 10 km river walk, some gym, and finishing with a late lunch, in Goulburn, on Saturday 

I want the car because it is getting cold, and might be wet, yes I could, and have, gone down for such activities on the bike before, in the cold, and wet, with a bag full of stuff, but it is a royal PITA, and the older I get the more it hurts on the trip home

If you see an idiot on a Harley heading down the coast in bright yellow rain gear, at dark O'Clock on Saturday morning, looking pissed off, wet, and cold, then that would be me, and the car isn't fixed

  • Like 1
  • Haha 3
On 05/05/2022 at 5:50 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Come take the R33, has subwoofer in boot, climate control and big whooshy turbo.

$60k, I'll even throw in my tool cabinet & tools.

Been there, done that with my old boat

I'm all about the bogan now, I would need a whole new wardrobe of clothes, JDM etiquette states you are not allowed to drive a import wearing jeans and flannel 

images.jpeg-32.thumb.jpg.89cdcad4533585188bce118ba0ac191c.jpg

And talking about hunting, this was on the sports field at work, Oh deer, nice rack

20220504_141529.thumb.jpg.eff79be1da7597d8a710194b5a7bb7f6.jpg

  • Haha 1

Got the car back

Autotech hooked me up and decided to replace my beaten up old condenser, at no cost to me, they were most apologetic about the leak, and whilst they didn't actually do the welding, or gassing, they fully owned responsibility, they prioritised the job and got the job done, and as stated I ended up with a brand new shiny condenser, which is nice

The aircon actually is also markedly colder now, I actually only had it regassed and seals done about a year ago, but, the aircon now is even colder than it has ever been, and that's with the interchiller tapped in

With ambient air temps at 20°c the IAT now sits under 35°c, no matter what I'm doing

I flicked the little switch which isolates the cabin aircon and the IAT dropped down to 30°c

I'm very happy with it now

Sadly never got the R888R fitted up, that is now a next Monday or Tuesday job

  • Like 2
On 03/05/2022 at 11:43 PM, r32-25t said:

Because I’m using them in parallel I don’t want one pushing straight back through the other while it switched off

the dw400 is the same pump but with one way valves in the top and has a lower number due to DW doing their flow with pressure on totopp of them 

I stage pumps on the blue 32 and was going to mention the Walbro check valves aren't worth a pinch of of shit, and allow flow backwards under bugger all pressure. Any in tank pump integral check valve appears to be garbage from my experience and doesn't do anything.

Get a proper one way valve like a Speedflow one - don't rely on the internal ones because they are shit.

  • Like 1

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