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On 13/05/2022 at 8:22 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Wot, damn...

Money they couldn't resist I suppose.

One possible benefit is due to opening up to the huge US market prices might settle a bit

Currently the 2500T goes for around $4500, then add in pinning it in, and tuning, and the other "supporting" stuff that it needs,  it will be a costly endeavour 

You seem to be all over "tuning and stuff", do you have any experience with torque management????

Fom my research the Haltech  torque management is awesome, and there's no point in having alot of powers if you cannot lay it down

On 13/05/2022 at 8:46 PM, mlr said:

You seem to be all over "tuning and stuff", do you have any experience with torque management????

In theory I know how to set it up, and know how to adapt different strategies to manage torque such as reduce timing on wheel slip (and ramp the time retard as wheel slip % increases), and/or apply the same on the DBW throttle body as wheel slip increases you decrease the max amount the throttle can open. For boost applications you can even trim duty cycle etc. Then all of that you can even throw on-top random cylinder cuts to reduce large amounts of torque.

I'm planning to install either a front wheel speed sensor OR (lazy way out) a GPS sensor and calculate slip % then apply whatever strategy above works most effectively and efficiently. Just avoiding the full cut traction strategy of boring A to B OEMs.

On 5/13/2022 at 8:46 PM, mlr said:

One possible benefit is due to opening up to the huge US market prices might settle a bit

Currently the 2500T goes for around $4500, then add in pinning it in, and tuning, and the other "supporting" stuff that it needs,  it will be a costly endeavour 

You seem to be all over "tuning and stuff", do you have any experience with torque management????

Fom my research the Haltech  torque management is awesome, and there's no point in having alot of powers if you cannot lay it down

www.racetcs.com

By far the simplest way for what you want (which is wheelspin due to power)

  • Like 1
On 14/05/2022 at 8:08 AM, r32-25t said:

Haltech themselves also say it’s not true 

Cool, my info must be off, the guy I was talking to was pretty confident and says he is tight with the owner

On 13/05/2022 at 11:01 PM, Kinkstaah said:

www.racetcs.com

By far the simplest way for what you want (which is wheelspin due to power)

Looks like the old race logics one

Pretty cheap, which sort of worries me

I wonder who can wire this puppy up for me?

  • Like 1
On 5/14/2022 at 8:40 AM, mlr said:

Looks like the old race logics one

Pretty cheap, which sort of worries me

I wonder who can wire this puppy up for me?

It is basically the racelogic one that I have, and works really well with minimal f**king around, it doesnt take a lot to get it to function better than you expect.

Anyone can wire it in. As long as you can identify your injector wires, and your ABS/wheel speed wires from the factory car, you can splice this in. It'll work with the factory ECU as well, and by work with I mean entirely independent of, which doesn't cause a problem with the factory ECU, basically.

  • Like 1
On 13/05/2022 at 11:26 PM, r32-25t said:

I can’t find any information about Holley buying haltech 

I just heard about it over on performance forums. The guy who brought it up is a haltech distributor. He said it's been sold to US company race winning brands.

Regarding halaltech

 

Holley did make an offer to buy but haltechs owner knew it would have been the end of haltech and didn't accept their offer. So there was truth in what you heard @mlr

 

 

https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20220511006064/en/MiddleGround-Capital-Completes-Third-Add-on-Acquisition-of-Haltech-for-Its-Race-Winning-Brands-Platform

I never did a video on how well mine worked/didn't work as there's enough out there from the various manufacturers.

I can let loose in 1st at 5000+rpm in the wet and the the car just drives straight. It does wiggle a bit relative to how much slip I dial in on the dial.

You would know that letting off otherwise at about 2000rpm results in a hilarious burnout on road tyres, even if you never posted a video of said rubber destructive test.

Caveat to above audacious claim: Mine is configured to kick in at 4kmh, (the nissan sensors don't pick up a reliable speed lower than that on all 4 wheels) so I have to get the car to 4kmh before truly just going flat foot on the accelerator/fully dropping the clutch.

I even only have a 6cyl system, so it can only ever cut 6cyl. I still can barely notice it activate as the car cuts in/out 2-6 of the 8 cyl. Also from testing/setting up, I can tell you a LS does not move under its own power with 2cyl active only, so you don't really need an 8cyl version.

It works great in corners. Pin 1st at 5kmh doing a u-turn and having the car not lose traction is VERY DIFFERENT to what happens with the system off.
 

  • Like 1
On 16/05/2022 at 8:25 AM, Kinkstaah said:

I never did a video on how well mine worked/didn't work as there's enough out there from the various manufacturers.

I can let loose in 1st at 5000+rpm in the wet and the the car just drives straight. It does wiggle a bit relative to how much slip I dial in on the dial.

You would know that letting off otherwise at about 2000rpm results in a hilarious burnout on road tyres, even if you never posted a video of said rubber destructive test.

Caveat to above audacious claim: Mine is configured to kick in at 4kmh, (the nissan sensors don't pick up a reliable speed lower than that on all 4 wheels) so I have to get the car to 4kmh before truly just going flat foot on the accelerator/fully dropping the clutch.

I even only have a 6cyl system, so it can only ever cut 6cyl. I still can barely notice it activate as the car cuts in/out 2-6 of the 8 cyl. Also from testing/setting up, I can tell you a LS does not move under its own power with 2cyl active only, so you don't really need an 8cyl version.

It works great in corners. Pin 1st at 5kmh doing a u-turn and having the car not lose traction is VERY DIFFERENT to what happens with the system off.
 

Stupid US dollar 

My impulsiveness kicked me in the balls with the current exchange rate, and shipping was exxy for what it was at $107US

Meh, as the cool kids say "Yolo, sent it, hold my beer" or something like that

  • Haha 1
On 16/05/2022 at 8:25 AM, Kinkstaah said:

I never did a video on how well mine worked/didn't work as there's enough out there from the various manufacturers.

I can let loose in 1st at 5000+rpm in the wet and the the car just drives straight. It does wiggle a bit relative to how much slip I dial in on the dial.

You would know that letting off otherwise at about 2000rpm results in a hilarious burnout on road tyres, even if you never posted a video of said rubber destructive test.

Caveat to above audacious claim: Mine is configured to kick in at 4kmh, (the nissan sensors don't pick up a reliable speed lower than that on all 4 wheels) so I have to get the car to 4kmh before truly just going flat foot on the accelerator/fully dropping the clutch.

I even only have a 6cyl system, so it can only ever cut 6cyl. I still can barely notice it activate as the car cuts in/out 2-6 of the 8 cyl. Also from testing/setting up, I can tell you a LS does not move under its own power with 2cyl active only, so you don't really need an 8cyl version.

It works great in corners. Pin 1st at 5kmh doing a u-turn and having the car not lose traction is VERY DIFFERENT to what happens with the system off.
 

Sounds like it's doing the job it's designed to do well.

Can you turn it off if you're in Mexico and want to rip a skid?

Sadly my car is non abs. I wonder if it's as simple as retrofitting some speed sensors or if it needs signals from an abs module?

On 16/05/2022 at 1:23 PM, admS15 said:

Sounds like it's doing the job it's designed to do well.

Can you turn it off if you're in Mexico and want to rip a skid?

Sadly my car is non abs. I wonder if it's as simple as retrofitting some speed sensors or if it needs signals from an abs module?

Yes, you can turn it off and rip skids....in Mehiko

Or for heating up tyres at the drags

Have a google, apparently you can fit sensors to anything really, cost to fit said sensors is ????????

On 5/16/2022 at 1:23 PM, admS15 said:

Sounds like it's doing the job it's designed to do well.

Can you turn it off if you're in Mexico and want to rip a skid?

Sadly my car is non abs. I wonder if it's as simple as retrofitting some speed sensors or if it needs signals from an abs module?

There's a dial that has the amount of slip you want (0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20% and off in my case)

So at the turn of a dial near my left knee you can indeed go berzerk.

It just needs access to a speed sensor or something that pulses in time with the wheels and it uses that for it's calculations. Racelogic used to sell a wheel speed sensor kit and a wheel speed sensor version but it was a bit more pricey. I don't think RaceTCS has that but given they label their own item as "Racelogic alternative" I wouldn't be surprised if it shows up soon lol.

  • Like 1
On 17/05/2022 at 8:16 AM, Kinkstaah said:

There's a dial that has the amount of slip you want (0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20% and off in my case)

So at the turn of a dial near my left knee you can indeed go berzerk.

It just needs access to a speed sensor or something that pulses in time with the wheels and it uses that for it's calculations. Racelogic used to sell a wheel speed sensor kit and a wheel speed sensor version but it was a bit more pricey. I don't think RaceTCS has that but given they label their own item as "Racelogic alternative" I wouldn't be surprised if it shows up soon lol.

Can you shoot me some info about how you wired it into the injectors and abs

My plan is some stranded CAT6 twisted and sheilded for the ABS

How did you/what did you use, to connect into the ABS/injector wiring? Crimps/solder??? Chewing gum???

For the injectors

Option 1: I'm either going to get 9 different coloured 0.75mm stranded wire for the 8 injectors and 1 earths, then make up a harness with corrugated conduit and heat shrink

Option 2: Get 4 x 5 core 0.75 FVV, 2 x 5 core each bank for my injectors in and out (allows me to keep the same colour wire for the cylinder in and out, and the spare for the earth

Any pics or recommendations would be most welcome

I'm looking at option 1, but I may be missing something simple

Now, where or my wiring tools that I last used 22 years ago?????

 

Who am I kidding, Jaycar here I come

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