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15 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I always thought 6,000rpm was when boost was meant to arrive, not when revs run out?

Full boost (7 psi) arrives just off idle, excellent for a street car with visions of grandeur 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

New knock off headlights are not storm proof and have got some condensation happening

 

I'll pull them in a while and try and do a smoke test to find where they are leaking

 

They currently have the caps removed to try and dry them out

 

Insert sad face here.....

In other news the car has almost run up to 150k km, so the LS1 is basically just run in...

 

 

16 hours ago, The Bogan said:

New knock off headlights are not storm proof and have got some condensation happening

 

I'll pull them in a while and try and do a smoke test to find where they are leaking

 

They currently have the caps removed to try and dry them out

 

Insert sad face here.....

In other news the car has almost run up to 150k km, so the LS1 is basically just run in...

 

 

Check the drain plugs aren't blocked on the lights mark. It might be trapping the air in there.

 

Also, at 150,000km on the clock, time to put it on blocks. That's your half million dollar retirement package in a couple more years :P

  • Haha 1

Dropped a deposit on a 4" in/out Varex muffler 

Do I need a 4", probably not, LOL

Also got the remote delete for a momentary switch coming in the mail

 

Thinking about it after I hit the buy now button, I probably could have used one of the rear windows switches, door

Meh, consumers must consume 🤣

 

 

 

 

 

 

Car had a miss only when nailing it, so I changed the plugs, that didn't fix it, so looked hard at the leads, they "seemed" fine, sooooo, dropped it off to Autotech to see what's up

 

I'm guessing a coil, or lead, or wire, or "something" else all together 

Car was still driving fine cruising on the street or hwy, just not when I mashed the loud pedal

Stupid car..... how am I meant to show the local cars my tail lights.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But you said cruising slow was what you're all about. Now you can do it dropping cylinders and popping and banging. Sounds like an upgrade!

As an aside, LS's are hard to even notice you're running on 7cyl for a month or so. Been there myself 😛

  • Like 1

A lose wire and a dodgy lead was the cause of the misfire, car is back to loving the loud pedal

 

Still waiting for the 4" Varex to turn up, the X Force toggle switch has already arrived, but as yet I'm not certain where it is going to go, somewhere that is easy, quick, but still out of the way, maybe the fuse box cover, maybe in the centre console?????

I also need to work out how to get the wiring from the Varex inside, hopefully there is already a grommet in the boot somewhere handy, otherwise it's a big drill bit and a grommet

 

 

 

  • Like 2
37 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

I don't want to "danger to manifold"

So nope

but but you don't have a 4 cylinder N/A making turbo whooshy noises with a laptop connected to it

  • Haha 1
52 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

This is obvious. Put it where it will get triggered by about 50% throttle!

It is a monetary switch, so push the top or bottom to open or close

hw5404_1.1115_1.thumb.jpg.4c6556cca6edc998365cfbad6dda02a0.jpg

You can get a smart box that works on a phone app to have open 25%, 50%, 75% or fully

 

You can actually get an ODB2 box for a Varex, which will (yes, live) link into to engine parameters to open. So it can be automatically set to fully open at 50%+ throttle or whatever variable or combination of variables you choose.

  • Thanks 1

I've got a ODB2 scanner that monitors IAT, and stuff, a up/down button is simple to work and easy to install

 

 

 

What I really want is a Haltec ecu thing is that monitors/adjusts everything, but, for the car it is overkill and costs way more than this old rooster can justify to purchase, wire in and then retune

 

Maybe if I win lotto 😒

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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