Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

15 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I always thought 6,000rpm was when boost was meant to arrive, not when revs run out?

Full boost (7 psi) arrives just off idle, excellent for a street car with visions of grandeur 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

New knock off headlights are not storm proof and have got some condensation happening

 

I'll pull them in a while and try and do a smoke test to find where they are leaking

 

They currently have the caps removed to try and dry them out

 

Insert sad face here.....

In other news the car has almost run up to 150k km, so the LS1 is basically just run in...

 

 

16 hours ago, The Bogan said:

New knock off headlights are not storm proof and have got some condensation happening

 

I'll pull them in a while and try and do a smoke test to find where they are leaking

 

They currently have the caps removed to try and dry them out

 

Insert sad face here.....

In other news the car has almost run up to 150k km, so the LS1 is basically just run in...

 

 

Check the drain plugs aren't blocked on the lights mark. It might be trapping the air in there.

 

Also, at 150,000km on the clock, time to put it on blocks. That's your half million dollar retirement package in a couple more years :P

  • Haha 1

Dropped a deposit on a 4" in/out Varex muffler 

Do I need a 4", probably not, LOL

Also got the remote delete for a momentary switch coming in the mail

 

Thinking about it after I hit the buy now button, I probably could have used one of the rear windows switches, door

Meh, consumers must consume 🤣

 

 

 

 

 

 

Car had a miss only when nailing it, so I changed the plugs, that didn't fix it, so looked hard at the leads, they "seemed" fine, sooooo, dropped it off to Autotech to see what's up

 

I'm guessing a coil, or lead, or wire, or "something" else all together 

Car was still driving fine cruising on the street or hwy, just not when I mashed the loud pedal

Stupid car..... how am I meant to show the local cars my tail lights.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But you said cruising slow was what you're all about. Now you can do it dropping cylinders and popping and banging. Sounds like an upgrade!

As an aside, LS's are hard to even notice you're running on 7cyl for a month or so. Been there myself 😛

  • Like 1

A lose wire and a dodgy lead was the cause of the misfire, car is back to loving the loud pedal

 

Still waiting for the 4" Varex to turn up, the X Force toggle switch has already arrived, but as yet I'm not certain where it is going to go, somewhere that is easy, quick, but still out of the way, maybe the fuse box cover, maybe in the centre console?????

I also need to work out how to get the wiring from the Varex inside, hopefully there is already a grommet in the boot somewhere handy, otherwise it's a big drill bit and a grommet

 

 

 

  • Like 2
37 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

I don't want to "danger to manifold"

So nope

but but you don't have a 4 cylinder N/A making turbo whooshy noises with a laptop connected to it

  • Haha 1
52 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

This is obvious. Put it where it will get triggered by about 50% throttle!

It is a monetary switch, so push the top or bottom to open or close

hw5404_1.1115_1.thumb.jpg.4c6556cca6edc998365cfbad6dda02a0.jpg

You can get a smart box that works on a phone app to have open 25%, 50%, 75% or fully

 

You can actually get an ODB2 box for a Varex, which will (yes, live) link into to engine parameters to open. So it can be automatically set to fully open at 50%+ throttle or whatever variable or combination of variables you choose.

  • Thanks 1

I've got a ODB2 scanner that monitors IAT, and stuff, a up/down button is simple to work and easy to install

 

 

 

What I really want is a Haltec ecu thing is that monitors/adjusts everything, but, for the car it is overkill and costs way more than this old rooster can justify to purchase, wire in and then retune

 

Maybe if I win lotto 😒

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...