Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G’morning my skyline R33 turbo,manual won’t start when cold. It will fire eventually but won’t continue to run.Starts first time when hot.I have changed spark plugs & coils. Any information would be greatly appreciated.Thanks Robbert.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480108-skyline-cold-start-problems/
Share on other sites

Do you have a strong battery with good connections? Another possibility is the temp sensor for the ecu. It is the one with two terminals ..the one with a single terminal is for your dash gauge. Unplug the ecu terminal and if the car starts better then that one needs to be replaced.

8 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Do you have a strong battery with good connections? Another possibility is the temp sensor for the ecu. It is the one with two terminals ..the one with a single terminal is for your dash gauge. Unplug the ecu terminal and if the car starts better then that one needs to be replaced.

 

47 minutes ago, Nortyone said:

Yes brand new battery and terminals clean as a whistle. Could you please give me more info where ECU is .thx.

 

47 minutes ago, Nortyone said:

Yes brand new battery and terminals clean as a whistle. Could you please give me more info where ECU is .thx.

ECU is in the LHS kick panel but you don't need to access it - disconnect the sensor at the sensor: follow the top hose to the block and you will find two sensors - just pull the plug off the one with two wires.

  • 4 weeks later...
20 hours ago, GDZ32 said:

Is the car on E85? common problem with E85 cars. Just keep cranking lol

Common with a lazy tuner :)

Mine starts in any temperature 1st go, and idles fine.. just doesn't drive very well for the 1st minute haha

25 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Mine starts in any temperature 1st go, and idles fine

Out of interest, how often do you start / drive it? Does it sit for weeks/months, then still start first go?

Have an R33 GTST track car with lots of mods, including E85. It starts fine when cold if it's run regularly, but if it sits for a while (> a month) it's very hard to start - crank until battery goes flat, recharge & try again....

31 minutes ago, GeeDog said:

Out of interest, how often do you start / drive it? Does it sit for weeks/months, then still start first go?

Have an R33 GTST track car with lots of mods, including E85. It starts fine when cold if it's run regularly, but if it sits for a while (> a month) it's very hard to start - crank until battery goes flat, recharge & try again....

Probably once every 2 weeks and yes it just sits around in my back yard. Last time I drove it was at the Sparesbox skid pan (performed terribly, never take a track car to a skid pan, it doesn't skid very well)

E85 is fun, there's a fine line between wetting the plugs and not starting and not enough cranking fuel to get it started. Then there's all the other dimensions of intake air temp, ethanol concentration, etc. I find adding a good amount to the initial prime table makes all the difference. Happy to send you my kebabtech tune file for R&D if you like.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...