Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. Just wondering if anyone has put R35 bakes on a R34 GTT.

I know you need 18” or 19” LMGT4’s or TE37 to run these (I’m assuming 19” though) along with the BM57 brake master cylinder upgrade along with an adapter kit of course.

Just seeing if anyone has done this or something similar or any recommendations.

Cheers

Edited by BlazenR34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480295-r35-brakes-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Your analysis is fair. I have access to them that’s why, just wondering if it’s worth doing. The main expense would actually be the adapter kit it seems. Plus I love the overall look and performance of the R35 set but no it will not be getting tracked at the bleeding edge. 
 

Was just wondering if anyone has done so or their preferred GTT main brake upgrade.

I upgraded my Stagea brakes to GTT and with a stopper, braided lines and better pads they were more than adequate for the road and coped with a couple of laps on the track - but didn't last well after a few laps. I upgraded to 330mm 8 pot D2s (same as K-sport etc) and better brake fluid and had no more trouble.

If you just want better brakes you could try fitting a stopper, braided lines, new fluid and better pads.

If that doesn't meet your needs then probably the next logical upgrade would be 324mm GTR brakes.

Brakes are one of those things where you match them to the activity you are doing...

I mean if you have R35 GTR brakes for $0 in your hand, and you can't sell them, then yeah sure get the kit and go for it, assuming you have 19in rims that will clear the brakes... which cost more than $0 (and their tyres) if you do not also already have them.

There's other kits to consider that work a bit better than R35 GTR brakes for Rchassis anyway even if you did need them, namely the G4/D2/Attakd kits, Alcon, AP, and CTSV/Commodore Brembos. But if you don't use them/need them then you're really paying money for literally no use..

Just to follow from that - I had R32 280mm brakes. I upgraded to R33 296mm brakes, partly because I wanted to and partly because they are required to register an R32 with an RB25 in SA. I then upgraded to R34 310mm brakes because they became available at a good price and I needed to buy new rotors (for the R33 brakes) anyway. All of this over a 10 year span. As a side benefit, I finally have my brake bias somewhat better than it was with either the 280 or 296mm fronts, because it appears that R32s are a little overbraked at the rear.

I wouldn't even consider putting on a 330mm kit from where I am now, even if I had it in my pocket and knew that it would fit in the wheels (which is not to be taken for granted), unless I knew that it would not bugger up my brake bias. Always an important consideration - especially for a streeter.

^--- a very good point. A while ago I updated to an 8 pot/356mm kit.

I could never get the fronts to feel like they engaged right, or fully, it felt very squirrelly on hard brakes... especially at the track, where I wanted the brake upgrade for.

My rear brake pad usage was considerably more than others, who reported a ratio of 1:3 and I got at best 1:1 front/rear pad changes.

I then changed from the R34 GTT BMC to a BM57 BMC from a R33 GTR.

The front feel is dramatically different and the car is definitely no longer rear braking. You can do the maths on piston size but it is another thing to consider in regards to a braking system.

If you have the brakes go for it. A quick google search brought up these adaptors
https://www.supertecracing.com/r35-brake-conversion
A big chunk of dollars to look cool
Or sell off for profit, Buy new rotors & pads, brake lines & good fluid and never have another issue again. 

I just happen to be putting the final touches on R35 Brembos onto an R34, which is basically identical in fitment to R33 and R32 (and for the Silvia guys they'll basically fit S13, S14, S15). The ones I worked on are the late-model brakes with 390mm rotors and they definitely fit under 18" TE37SLs; no finished photos yet but here's a few random ones. The second photo with lots of caliperse are - starting from the yellow working clockwise:

- FPV Brembo monoblocks @ 6/4pot

- EVO lancer @ 4/2pot

- R35 @ 6/4pot

- R34 GTR @ 4/2pot

And rotors wise they are; R34 GTR @ 324mm, EVO 10 @ 350mm, R35 OEM @ 390m and R35 AP Racing @ 390mm.

 

Whether you NEED them or not is another question lol

200113r35.jpg

200115lotsofbrakes.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...