Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have a blown up Series 2 in my R33 Skyline, I do not believe it was from lack of oil pressure as my logs from my Link ecu does not show loss of oil pressure. However, I've still managed to spin the 3rd main bearing. I am putting this down to wear and tear (the motor is the original 20+ year old motor, had 244,000km and running 400rwhp for more than 4 years).

I currently have a NEO 25DET at engine shop being modified to suit some new nitto pistons and rods, I've chosen to go for the Sine drive nitto pump, and grub screwed collar as well. The machine shop has recommended getting the oil drains drilled out 1.5mm bigger and the head and block modified to suit rb26 head studs size. PRP rear head drain will be fitted as well as rb26 valve covers and hi-octane baffle kit. On top of all this I've also ordered a Lewis Engines oversized and baffled sump as well as a accusump to finish off the oiling system. 

The machine shop will also be polishing the inside of the block (to clean up the castings) and spraying it with a special coating I forgot the name but they said this helps the oil flow back to the sump and cleaning up the hard edges on the oil pump. 

This combination, with a garrett gt3076 gen 2 0.83 AR should hopefully make a fairly safe 600whp on e85. Is there any other modifications I should get done whilst the motor is apart?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480503-reliable-rb25-neo-for-drifting/
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

My understanding is that MotiveDVD is the word of god and they recommended a head drain in their oil control video, thus the head drain is the only way to go.

I don't believe in God I believe in evidence...so no rear oil drain particularly if you are getting an accusump system

42 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Paint

Its called Glyptal apparently it repels oil and let's oil return faster. 

 

Do you guys realise a accusump isn't a dry sump setup? I've had a couple people pm me stating I don't need all these mods with the accusump as the scavenge pumps fix the head issues so no head drain or sump mods are needed. 

Accusump is a charged oil canister that pumps oil into the engine once it gets below a certain psi limit (usually 10-15psi).

 

 

21 minutes ago, Blakeo said:

Its called Glyptal apparently it repels oil and let's oil return faster. 

 

Do you guys realise a accusump isn't a dry sump setup? I've had a couple people pm me stating I don't need all these mods with the accusump as the scavenge pumps fix the head issues so no head drain or sump mods are needed. 

Accusump is a charged oil canister that pumps oil into the engine once it gets below a certain psi limit (usually 10-15psi).

 

 

Yes I know what it is. One of the main oil control issues is high capacity oil pumps draining the sump faster than it can flow back down. Accusump maintains oil pressure. Rear head "drain" does nothing. My suggestion is read say the last half of the oil control thread. But its your car you can do what you like.

Your going to be pushing to get to 600 whp with that turbo,i had the gtx 3076 gen 2 and maxed it out at around 520 whp with a .83 rear housing on e85 pushing around 24 psi, just put a g35 900 on and makes the 600 whp with ease and hardly any more lag than the gtx 3076 gen 2, these new g series are a game changer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...