Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I've got a problem that's getting on my nerves.

Fuse at the bortom left side (10a) keeps on popping when i turn the key to on.

I got problems with my climate control and fan blower and i have tried everything.

Googled like a maniac and still can't find anything that sort my problem.

Can this be related?

I got three climate controls, so that isn't the problem ?

I also tried removing all connectors to the fan blower motor, I've changed the temperature relay to.

Please help, I'm getting desperate.

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480588-10a-electrics-fuse-problem/
Share on other sites

I'll tell you what it powers. It powers the things that stop working when it is blown or removed.

Have you looked at the wiring diagram?

I haven't got the the R33 manual here, because...ugh, why would I? But the R34 manual shows many circuit diagrams with numbered fuses. An example being #5, 10A from the ignition switch, running the sunroof & power windows. I'm not suggesting that that's your fuse (although it could be!)....just pointing out the level of detail available in the easily accessible documentation.

 

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Thanks 1

The wiring diagrams that I find is hard to read, to small. The only thing that I have problem with is hicas and climate control/fan blower.

I'm going to follow the wires tonight and try giving power to see if the fan blower will move.

I got 12v at the wires to climate control.

15 minutes ago, legazzi said:

The wiring diagrams that I find is hard to read, to small. The only thing that I have problem with is hicas and climate control/fan blower.

I'm going to follow the wires tonight and try giving power to see if the fan blower will move.

I got 12v at the wires to climate control.

Don't search for wiring diagrams, search for a service manual, particularly the factory service manual

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are, a good friend of mine bought one to replace his blow factory turbo, running a Toshi Tune reflash. Just use their supplied water/oil lines and you're good to go. At the time, they were like $900 delivered.
    • This is an option for 100% bolt on, the GCG high flow -  https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html Also, I'm pretty sure hypergear does a high flow that is 100% bolt on, it just doesn't make as much power as their bigger high flows.  Even if you get a hypergear turbo that requires you to chance the intake piping, it is a really simple modification. It can be as simple as a piece of silicon hose and you pop a filter on the end. It doesn't have to be some crazy pie cut titanium work of art intake pipe.  If you have the ability to swap the turbo yourself, you would be able to sort the intake piping out. 
    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
×
×
  • Create New...