Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, i am a french gtt r34 owner and i would love to upgrade my brake.

Instead of buy expensive D2 brake for exemple. I would love to know if Brake caliper of Z34 (370Z) is fit on our r34 Wheel hub (bolt on). (hope you will understand what i want to say)

I want to have front 355mm x 32mm rotors. 

In France i've tried to find some informations but i didn't found them. So i hope you can have some answers.

If i did not mistake oem R34GTT have front 297mm x 30mm rotors. So it pretty sur that i need to change my brake caliper, that is why i thought about 370Z one. But my question is, do they fit on R34 gtt??

 

Hope you understand and sorry for my English.

Thanks a lot.

Edited by zack777
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480659-brake-caliper-r34gtt/
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

http://www.trak-life.com/diy-350z-brembo-brakes-conversion-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gts-gts-4/

 

This should help. The bolts  on r34 brakes are 14mm so the drilling isn't required

Don't 370Z's have akebono brakes, do they bolt up directly? I know guys have put them on m35's. Just not sure if they're direct fit.

If the D2 brakes are above your budget, you should instead keep standard calipers and standard size rotors. Start by changing to more aggressive pads and better fluid, and if budget stretches that far you could consider uprated rotors as well.

Post r34 stuff (350/370z, V35/V36 etc) has a different offset to R32-34 which means you need to change the disc as well as caliper. Unless you have a very cheap second hand source it won't be cheaper than D2, and remember they come with brand new discs, pads and braided brake lines too....

 

 

^^^what he said.  I put GTT brakes on my C34 Stagea (which would be heavier than your Skyline) and with better pads, brake fluid , braided brake lines and a MC stopper they were more than adequate on the street.  If your brakes are causing your ABS to kick in on a hard stop then bigger brakes won't stop you any better.

On the other hand if you are planning to do lap after lap on the track then you will want something better which is why I went to 330mm D2s.

I really feel the Evo 6/7/8/9 calipers + Evo X 350mm rotor upgrade is the best bang for buck upgrade you can do without going to a big brake kit like the D2/K-Sport/Attkd kits. Only costs about AU$1500 (obviously not including pads and fluid) to do the fronts depending on what rotors you decide to buy and how cheap you can find second hand calipers; but nets you a decent upgrade on the calipers and a huge upgrade on the rotors. If you can spend a bit more, get a BM57 master cylinder and perhaps do the rears as well, but none of that HAS to happen all at once either.

See that's the thing to me.....ATTKD R34 355mm 6 spot kit is $2150 and comes with new calipers, 2 piece rotors, pads, brakes lines

vs Alpha Omega 355 Evo : $1924 for used calipers and no pads, or approx $3610 for rebuilt/coated caliper , 2 piece disc and $400 pads

caliper adapters $400

brake lines $145

1 piece rotors $499 (or like for like, 2 piece $1,300)

used evo calipers ($880, potentially +$145 for seals, +$300 for rebuild service + $390 powder coat)

Doesn't add up to me. At best you save $200 and have lucky dip of 2nd hand caliper quality and no pads.

:down:

BTW I run 324 rotors and 4 spot calipers on my r32 GTR race car and they don't fade including endurance racing and long tarmac rally stages. Bigger rotors like 355 aren't necessary unless you have big to huge power (400+) and do heavy track work.

Of course, 355 looks better under 18s if that is your goal.

Sure, but that's what it costs if you just buy it all from Alpha Omega. They're trying to make money off it, which is cool because they are also offering you the convenience of getting all the right gear in one place - but you can find all those parts significantly cheaper if you look around. Just buy their adapter kit for $400, which isn't bad value. Then I picked up my calipers for $500, rebuilt them including new pistons for $170 (I mean if you need to pay someone to rebuild them then that's an extra cost, but it's just about the easiest thing you can do on a car, disassembly and reassembly took all of 25 minutes), powder coating locally shouldn't cost more than $200. Brake lines I got from Alpha for $145, but I got lazy - could have found cheaper if I'd been bothered to measure what was on there etc.

Then the advantage of the Evo gear is that there are SO many options for them in terms of pads and rotors. So you can decide how much you want to pay and what you want to get. Infinite selection of pads, just take your pick. Rotors, you can get single piece DBA T3's for less than $500. Or if you want cheap 2-piece, then get Attkd 2-piece Evo X rotors for $550. Plus it is all OEM quality - there's very little to go wrong with OEM second hand calipers, especially if you rebuild them.

 

I'll admit, the Attkd kit appealed to me for a long time. But in the end I liked the flexibility of the Evo gear. And I just bought the whole kit over a period of several months from various places, and didn't have to drop the lump sum of cash on a complete kit.

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

See that's the thing to me.....ATTKD R34 355mm 6 spot kit is $2150 and comes with new calipers, 2 piece rotors, pads, brakes lines

vs Alpha Omega 355 Evo : $1924 for used calipers and no pads, or approx $3610 for rebuilt/coated caliper , 2 piece disc and $400 pads

caliper adapters $400

brake lines $145

1 piece rotors $499 (or like for like, 2 piece $1,300)

used evo calipers ($880, potentially +$145 for seals, +$300 for rebuild service + $390 powder coat)

Doesn't add up to me. At best you save $200 and have lucky dip of 2nd hand caliper quality and no pads.

:down:

BTW I run 324 rotors and 4 spot calipers on my r32 GTR race car and they don't fade including endurance racing and long tarmac rally stages. Bigger rotors like 355 aren't necessary unless you have big to huge power (400+) and do heavy track work.

Of course, 355 looks better under 18s if that is your goal.

What pads are you using Duncan?

Hi guys,  Thanks a lot for all your responses  ?

To talk in order, thank for the tutorial Ben C34, so if i well understant 350z brake are direct bolt on R34 Skyline chassis. But about the 370Z?? its the same?

As you said Duncan, D2 big brake are too expensive for me, (more of 2000€ in France), and about my Driving style, i do not race on tracklap (hope is the right word) its only for street, big street if i can say. So yes the stock brake is a little weak for me, and to be honest, 355mm is also for a better looking (18" Wheel)

But i understand what you meant, its almost as expensive as a big brake kit (and all is new, not used) 

If you want i'm looking for the better way and the cheapest ways to have 355mm on my cars or even 340mm but not below.

 

Today i saw K sport front kit, and its a way less expensive for a 355mm rotors with 6 or 8 piston caliper (1450€) 

But i do not know this brand. It is a good brand?? Why on their website 6pistons is more expensive than 8pistons for the same rotors. Its the first time for me (changing break) and i even don't understand the difference between 6 and 8.

 

Thank you all :)

Edited by zack777

So far as I know K Sport and D2 are made by the same factory. If appearance is the main criterion then 6 or 8 pistons are all the same. Theoretically an 8 piston set up will apply pressure more evenly to the pad.

11 hours ago, zack777 said:

Thanks for the precision KwiRS4T

Regarding all the information, and depending the price, i think i will take Yellowspeed Big brake, i can have them for 1300€, and all will be new

What do you think?

Honda, Audi guys seem to like them. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...