Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noticed my front brake rotors on my 32 could do with replacing in the very near future, they are the 280mm so they are stock 32 GTST brakes.

Car currently has 365kW and I’m looking at potentially doing a few track days in the very near future so would like to possibly increase the size of the brakes.

The issue I have is my current wheel setup, 17x9 ET23 BBS LM’s. They aren’t the best wheel for big brakes I know however I’m just wondering if anyone has had these wheels with a larger than 280mm rotors. 

Any suggestions for suitable front brake upgrades? R32 GTR/350z/Evo? 

Would a decent disc and pad combo be enough using the stock 280mm brakes?

I would love to keep the wheels ideally though. 

have also tried searching and can’t find much on SAU.

also attached some poor photos showing current brake clearance.C9887A8E-5E83-44FD-8C7C-E6378565E209.thumb.jpeg.eab8ed614cf596dcdf2e7e5168d63108.jpeg5E83B7DE-E7CB-4A95-8F3A-C847FC9A6961.thumb.jpeg.3ea4b636419dca3090f3bc27f3d24c84.jpeg33DBD75E-3930-4692-AC36-470BD73A3BB2.thumb.jpeg.e045b6b52958057ff532438c41264491.jpeg

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480762-17x9-bbs-lm-big-brake-clearance/
Share on other sites

Looks like you will struggle to fit anything bigger, depending on the track and speeds a good set of pads, lines and fluid will be enough. If you decide to go bigger look at 350z brembo fronts as they will fit under most 17s (te37, rpf1, r33 gtr) 

I've been using project mu pads and 4000 series rotors with good consistent feel for 6+ years and am trialling a set of Elig pads at the moment but haven't had to do as heavy braking but seem alright for a budget brake pad. 

you can go a fair bit bigger under 17s diameter wise, I run 324mm GTR discs under 17s. But, as you can see the caliper is close to the spokes so caliper design (height) could be a problem.

The ATTKD calipers are pretty low profile so that is one way to go but I suspect R32 GTR calipers will fit too as they are very similar to what you have height wise.

Kind of hard to be sure without bolting them up, and you always have the option of 5mm slip on spacers if it is too close

I think there is roughly 20mm from the outside edge of the caliper to the nuts on the back of the wheel and maybe 5-6mm clearance from front of caliper to rear of spoke. Think I’ll get some proper measurements this week and see what I’m faced with. 

Will also see if there are any 32gtr calipers for sale too.

Have a look at r34 gtt fronts as rotor is 310mm or find a friend who is happy to let you borrow gtr/brembo calipers and rotors to test fit. 

The evo setup requires minimum of 18inch wheels generally. 

If those spokes don't curve back in towards the caliper any more as you go further out (radially), then you will be able to fit either the R32 GTR, R33 GTST or R34 GTT Sumitomo calipers (which are all basically the same dimensions, just spaced out radially via leg length differences) with a reasonable degree of certainty.

If they do curve back, then as the caliper goes out radially, you will be at risk of using up all your clearance.

R32 324mm Brembos are a more compact caliper than the Sumitomos, but obviously they are 22mm radially further out than the R32 GTSt calipers sit, so you will have to rely on measurement/trial there.

'Twere me, wanting big brakes for biggish power track work, then I'd be changing wheels.

I believe i actually have some r32 gtr front calipers that came with a shell i bought a few years ago - i'll try one on the car tonight (if i can find them).

If they do fit, wheres the best place to get a rebuild kit from these days? do i go straight to nissan for them?

Done a little bit of googling trying to figure out what vehicles the f40 caliper came on and it’s saying ford fpv vehicles. So am I looking for calipers off a falcon? (I’m a Pom so I know absolutely nothing about fords or holdens...so please excuse my ignorance)

F40 are so called because that's the ferrari they were originally on. Probably lots of cars since with the same caliper, they were just a large 4 piston caliper with radial mount so they could be moved out more easily with adapters

Your problem won't be clearance to the outside of the wheel, you can fit at least 330mm discs under there before you need to remove wheel weights..... The issue is thick calipers hitting the spokes if they curve in at the outsides

  • Like 1

did a bit more googling and found these.... im actually pretty tempted to purchase the adapters first, bolt them up and see if the calipers clear. 

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/Parts-Shop/brake-calliper-adapters-(front)---32,-33-gtst-3287.aspx

or these,

https://au.gktech.com/products/brakes/brake-adapters/z32-r32-s14-s15-caliper-bracket-to-suit-324mm-r33-gtr-rotor-1

Its probably the cheapest way of trialling bigger brakes as i can use my current caliper with this kit - also dont have to purchase rotors or anything until i know they fit.

Edited by DaymoR32

A couple of things to note.

The adapters pictures on the UAS page are not for 280mm calipers spaced out to 324. They are for 296mm calipers (R33 GTST or R32 GTR) spaced out to 324. Note that they are offset in a weird shape.

The GKTech ones pictured are definitely for spacing out 280mm > 324mm.

I must stress that UAS probably have the correct adapters and will probably send the right ones to you. But if you do choose to buy from them, just double check that they haven't accidentally crossed the streams!

Also, the pad shape/curvature of the Sumitomo calipers is not completely great on the 324mm rotors. They tend to hang off the rotor a bit. If you're going to buy these for a test fit, you should also make some rings our of plywood that slip on the OD of the 280mm rotor to take the outside edge of it out to 324, so you can see the location of the pad relative to the rotor before you decide to go ahead. There has been plenty posted about this before, showing what people have done. It's not insurmountable, just something you should know about before proceding.

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

A couple of things to note.

The adapters pictures on the UAS page are not for 280mm calipers spaced out to 324. They are for 296mm calipers (R33 GTST or R32 GTR) spaced out to 324. Note that they are offset in a weird shape.

The GKTech ones pictured are definitely for spacing out 280mm > 324mm.

I must stress that UAS probably have the correct adapters and will probably send the right ones to you. But if you do choose to buy from them, just double check that they haven't accidentally crossed the streams!

Also, the pad shape/curvature of the Sumitomo calipers is not completely great on the 324mm rotors. They tend to hang off the rotor a bit. If you're going to buy these for a test fit, you should also make some rings our of plywood that slip on the OD of the 280mm rotor to take the outside edge of it out to 324, so you can see the location of the pad relative to the rotor before you decide to go ahead. There has been plenty posted about this before, showing what people have done. It's not insurmountable, just something you should know about before proceding.

Thanks for the advice, i'll order the GKtech ones as theres a few other things i want to grab off the website whilst im there. i'll do a bit more searching and check out what people have done in the past, thanks for pointing me in the right direction ?

As Duncan said the F40 is a chunky old 4 piston calliper which I chose because it was 1990 something and because it has the same piston area as the GTR Brembos with a larger and fairly common pad.

Point being that if anything is going to foul the BBS spokes it is probably that calliper.  And it doesnt.

The BBS rims in that size are ex Japan and from what I can tell made for the 32 GTR.  17x9+20.

20200713_155919.jpg

20200713_155944.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...