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Build/ Dyno Update + Issues

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Hi team,

I have just recently picked up my R33 Skyline GTR V Spec from the tuners. The actual driving experience is awesome and the car made exactly what power I wanted it to etc.

The car made 409kw at the hubs on 24 psi but was eventually turned down to 377kw at the hubs on 20 psi (high boost) and 335kw at the hubs on 16psi (low boost) which is enough to scare my passengers lol.

The tuner and myself were impressed and I was not expecting anything more considering it still has the stock block with twin turbos on pump 98 gas.

However I am experiencing a few issues:

1. The vehicle has a brand new clutch installed which is a 230mm Organic Extreme twin plate clutch (converted from push to pull). When driving and shifting through the gears it feels great but taking off is not the same experience, the car seems to judder/ shake when releasing the clutch. Is this normal? Do I need new engine/ transmission mounts? Or do I just need to wait it out and bed the clutch in?

2. The car seems to drop revs on idle after a warm start and eventually switch off, cold starts are perfectly fine.

3. The tuner mentioned the vehicle dropped some oil near the gearbox when left over night at his shop. The car previously did not drop any oil before I sent it into the workshop. I now have the car at home which has been parked off for a few days so I could see where the oil is coming from and it hasn't dropped any oil? Could this just be a one off?

Note: The car has traveled 80xxxkms (body and motor).

Below are some images plus mods done to the vehicle for anyone intereseted:

- HKS GT2530 Twin Turbos

- HKS Straight Through Exhaust

- Haltech Platinum Pro Plugin ECU

- Custom Pod Filters

- Hi Octane Oil Catch Can

- Kelford 272 Cams

- 1000cc Injectors

- 350LPH Fuel Pump

- Fuel Pressure Regulator

- Full Cam and Crank Trigger Setup

- Hicas Lock Bar

- Extreme Twin Plate Clutch Organic Pull to Push

Along with a fresh service top to bottom.




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Clutch sounds normal, that's just how a grabby clutch feels. Give it some more revs and take your foot off a bit quicker, it wants to just grab and go, it doesn't want to have to slip at low rpm while you slowly ease off it. You'll get used to it and be able to drive it pretty normally - hill starts in front of the boys in blue may be a new phobia for you!


Warm start issue sounds like your tuner needs to have a bit of a play with the post-start enrichment values, or potentially just adjust your IACV if you are still using it. 


While they have the car, just get them to put it up on the hoist and have a look for the oil leak. If it's there, they should be able to track it down and you can decide if it's worth sorting now or later. It doesn't sound like it's an urgent issue, and it's possible it wasn't from your car at all and the tuner just didn't notice another car drop it. But oil leaks are shit, at best they will make a big mess if left untreated, and at worst they are a fire hazard. Best to just have a look at it now while it's on your mind.


Sounds like a fun car, enjoy it. Love those wheels :)

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Oil leaks are never a once off. I will almost guarantee whoever did you clutch stuffed up regarding your oil leak. You have gone from pull to push, this means you will have a new gearbox input shaft front cover on it to suit a push clutch. The extreme stuff uses the factory push or pull stuff, it does not use a converter so the input shaft cover is changed. When the front cover has been changed I guarantee the 3 bottom bolts have not been sealed correctly. Needs to be sealed with Threebond, not thread locker, as these bolts pass into the gearbox oil pan section. Watch out for a leak at the bellhousing like this


If it is, it is the 3 bolts for this cover on the front of the box leaking. Box out job to fix.


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For problem 2, how long does the car run for before it dies? 

Is the tune locked? Are you wanting to plug a laptop in and sort the tune out yourself? 

I can help you troubleshoot the tune but if your not wanting to tune it yourself, the answer is going to be take it back to your tuner. I can't imagine they'll charge you for what is essentially warranty work.

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49 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I can't imagine they'll charge you for what is essentially warranty work.

This. It is essentially one of those areas that 99% of tuners spend a second or two looking at before doing power runs. If the customer never complains about it, then why spend the time doing it.


Of course, all bets are off if there is a mechanical issue causing the tune to be out. That shit is money.

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