Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,
Please dont murder me but Can you run a water meth kit on a stock r34 GTT ECU?
I have been considering doing this for the reduced chances of detonation, lower intake temps, and the cleaner combustion. 
Some one told me that you need to tune ecu's fuel mapping in order to gain the power benefits but he also mentioned that even with out a tune its still beneficial to run and cant do no harm. 
Anyone have a similar experience? is it safe?

Yes but you won't gain anything if you can't add in timing, so in some ways pointless exercise.

If you were to run a Nistune you could use the compensation tables to add timing and lean up your mixture as you ramp in your WMI using the flex input.

  • Like 1

Do you need it?

 

Is your car currently pulling timing?

 

I've seen it setup on a stockish car before, triggered by RPM, the only difference I noticed was he had to keep filling the tank with a 50/50 mix.

 

Tuning for meth needs alot of fail safes.

 

GTSBoy just posted, so yeah, what he said.

 

Needs more LS

If you run it untuned you're going to be limited in how much water you can inject. If you add methanol you're going to run even richer than the already rich stock map.

Nostrum energy is the only company that seems to be working on how to make it work properly but I don't think they're going to make something useful for RBs any time soon. I would just run E85, I figure at low boost with decent IATs you can lean it out some with the RB's prehistoric 8.5 CR, or enrich a bit when IATs spike and get the same benefits as water injection with a lot less pain.

55 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I would just run E85, I figure at low boost with decent IATs you can lean it out some with the RB's prehistoric 8.5 CR, or enrich a bit when IATs spike and get the same benefits as water injection with a lot less pain.

not on a stock ECU

45 minutes ago, GTofuS-T said:

not on a stock ECU

Yeah, you need a Nistune or standalone to do it but I don't think untuned water injection is very good either.

If OP wants to run water injection on the stock ECU, my advice is put a very small nozzle just after the intercooler and only activate when IATs suggest heat soak and only inject pure distilled water. If you inject post-IC you don't want large quantities of liquid water making it to the plenum.

If AEM have an electronic tuning/metering kit then it could work ok-ish but in a limited capacity......because you rely on its 'brains' to manage the WMI.

ie I have a Snow performance SIII kit that has its own control module, lets you input IDC and boost triggers and then a sliding scale for when the WMI is triggered and by how much, then at what trigger/s it reaches full flow.

eg I use 12psi and AND/OR 50% injector duty cycle to start injection at 40% flow and then 16psi and 85% IDC for full flow.

You would also need a knock sensor and digital display to check operation.

But to be honest, a nistune or haltech would be better.

 

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...