Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All,

 

had car for number of years all good. Changed to big turbo and around 650bhp and after 2 days of driving alternator suddenly died

 

it is much hotter running car so thinking it could have killed it. Very strange no sign and suddenly dead

 

do they have a relay or something? If i remove battery lead, it dies and don’t charge

 

checked online and some say it could be relay. Is there relay for alternator ?

 

looking at high amp ones they are £600 so pricey.

 

thanks for any advice 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480933-r34-alternator-died-suddenly/
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, drifter17a said:

Well not charging do dead for dure ubless there are relay etc

There is dead, and there is dead. What part of the alternator has died? Rectifier? Winding gone open? Dirty commutator?

Diagnose properly, then fix. If this means taking it to a sparky, then do so.

So took it to sparky and he reconditioned it.

 

he couldn’t get the regulator and after some fafing around he called and said it is ready

So now with full load it is charging at 14 but when rpm is 2k and above. When on idle which is around 800 it doesn’t charge at all with full load charing at 12.7 or less with nonload or full load around 11.5 

 

belt is as tight as hell so what could be wrong?

Did voltage drop test and negative it is 2.4 volt and positive is 3.4 volt to alternator and i belive more than 2v on positive and 1v on negative means trouble

 

my battery is in boot so i used jumper lead to extend so not sure if this is playing a role 

 

i think it is either dirty connection or short circuit somewhere, thought?

5 hours ago, Dil-Dog said:

This is from the states, very good price and i have been using this on my r34 for 8 months now. https://frsport.com/circuit-sports-alt-0v017-al-oe-alternator-nissan-r34-rb25det-neo-r34-rb26dett

I'm using one too, no voltage problems with 3x fuel pumps running albeit 2x are PWM.

Good value.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...