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Hello,

I have a problem with my recent setup. After installing new turbo its failing after 500km of driving, so pretty fast. 

My last GTX3071r gen2 survieved just 2 months also new one, around 2000km Just driving on highways, no trackdays, racing etc.

My actual setup is RB25det with 6boost manifold, vband Garrett turbo housing ar 0.83.

First thing I am planning to change is all water and oil hoses connected to the turbo, i have no idea what the other problem my be.

I have a question regarding water and oil hoses. 

There are two water hoses connected to the turbo, should it be connected in the right direction or it does not matter ? Does the water flows through the turbine just in one direction? May be this a problem or not? I mean the first hose comming from the engine block can be connected on right side of the turbo and also on left side? 

Also the say to use oil restrictors for Garrett turbos so i use 0.9mm screw with the oil restrictor to connect oil hose to the turbo. Is this ok or not?

Any ideas? 

My actual turbo starts metal grinding today so i know its going to fail soon. THe first one started exactly the same, metal grindings comming from the air filer and next day, the turbine rotor was bend and stuck, no boost at all. ;/

 

 

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The water lines don't matter. The turbo wouldn't die even if they weren't connected.

 

 

 

Have you confirmed how much oil is flowing through the turbo? By taking off oil return and allowing it to flow into a bucket, you will likely find it is hardly getting oil

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GTX turbos have a restrictor built in i'm pretty sure, so as Ben says, sounds like insufficient oil flow. Water lines can go on either side but the highest side should be the exit, obviously. 

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All Garrett turbos i owned  have something inside the connection hole. Maybe a restrictor but i dont know what size is this. My old GT3076r also has it and turbos from gen1 also. I used double restrictors so far i know, something like this in this topic below

My screw had a tiny restrictor that was glued at some point. My mechanic said this is no problem because high oil pressure will make the oil keeps going. I checked oil pressure on the oil line by disconnecting from the turbo and its ok.

So i decided to take a drill and make this restrictor much bigger from 1mm to 2.5mm. When i connected back together the metal noises from the turbo went away. Actually the turbo is way more responsive and has better boost with better oil flow. So can i drive like this? I hope i did not killed my turbo by driving some time with this metal grindings. When it got good oiling it runs like new so far. Maybe i saved my second turbo i dont know yet.

Also found this in google

If there is too much oil in the pan or if the turbocharger in your car is relatively lower, then oil can get through the seals and begin to blow out. ... This happens because the restrictor will starve the turbo of oil, which will cause all of the internals of the turbo (including all of the seals) to wear out.

E

 

Edited by Tomak

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You have damaged your turbo. The only question is "how close to f**ked is it?"

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13 hours ago, Tomak said:

. I checked oil pressure on the oil line by disconnecting from the turbo and its ok.

That's not what I said and I don't even know what that means.

 

You need to check with the car running the flow of oil out of the turbo.

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14 hours ago, WR33KD said:

When you put your new turbo in did you prime it?

No first time hear this, what is this about?

 

7 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

That's not what I said and I don't even know what that means.

 

You need to check with the car running the flow of oil out of the turbo.

I will be in my mechanic shop next week so i do it. I am not able to disconnect the oil return line at the bottom of the block by myself and on the top i dont have a space even to move it. Everything is so tight that i would have to disconnect all the turbo installation again. 

Is there a specific oil flow ratio through the turbine? How i am suppose to calculate this? Like check it on idling how much oil goes through the turbine per soconds ? The oil pressure is way higher at 6000rpms so what this test will tell me on idling?

 

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Well, just have to make sure there are plenty of clean oil to the turbo. -4 oil line, no restrictor, and inline oil filter usually works fine. After installation must check to ensure there are plenty of oil coming out of the drain.

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So you put a brand new turbo in bolted it up and just started the car normally?

just wanna get the facts right.

Can you tell me how you installed it?

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OK, 

13 hours ago, WR33KD said:

So you put a brand new turbo in bolted it up and just started the car normally?

just wanna get the facts right.

Can you tell me how you installed it?

Just started normally after installation, did like this with every garrett turbo. Actually my mechanic did it. Never told me about special starting procedure for new turbo. 

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What I got told was to install the turbo like normal then unplug the cas and crank till the oil pressure light goes off then plug the cas back in and away you go.

if you don’t do this your starting your turbo dry and will cause damage to the bearings.

It has worked for both holsets I have used

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2 minutes ago, WR33KD said:

What I got told was to install the turbo like normal then unplug the cas and crank till the oil pressure light goes off then plug the cas back in and away you go.

if you don’t do this your starting your turbo dry and will cause damage to the bearings.

It has worked for both holsets I have used

I will go to my tuner soon so i will ask about this.

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That's gotta suck, 2x dead GTX's :(  It will definitely be an oil issue. The remnants of your first failed turbo bearings will be in the oil pan. So drain the oil and bin the filter. New engine oil filter, fresh synthetic oil like Redline. If this hasn't been done already you really need to install 4AN braided teflon oil feed with inline 40micron filter. Don't fit the restrictor. Get an inline 4AN 1/8NPT fitting like below and screw a pressure gauge into it to verify oil pressure in the oil feed line. This should show up any issues. You want around 40psi in the line when the oil is hot. If it doesn't get over 60psi leave the restrictor out. If it's higher than 60 hot, fit a 1mm restictor but do this at the 40micron filter (after the gauze) so you can verify oil pressure after the restrictor. Also make sure the turbo oil drain is big enough, 10AN is a good size. And yes, always prime a new turbo with clean oil (use a syringe) prior to start up.

20200913_125043.jpg

Edited by Boosted Esky

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