Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With RBs pushing power further and further past 1000hp the demand on a gearbox is ever greater. 10 years ago a 1000hp transmission would be considered unbreakable. Now, with the cost of power parts going down and quality going up, the same person who could afford a sequential 10 years ago would be aiming for a number far higher then 1000hp. Keeping the cost aside and keeping dedicated drag boxes out of it (would love to see a thread on Liberty and Jericho transmissions)

Are transmission manufacturers keeping up?

What is the strongest sequential out there?

Why do you think/know so?

I am leaning towards the Hollinger. Been around for a very long time, very widely used in motorsports. Seems to be the only one with straight cut gears which eliminates sideload.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481213-strongest-sequential-and-why/
Share on other sites

The Holinger sequential for GTR uses helical cut gears, as does PPG and OS 88. Samsonas and Albins use straight cut 

I think most would agree Albins would be top of the food chain 

You're right, back in the day, most of the GTR's though were either 2.6, or 2.8 only. RB30's werent THAT common.

I was in this exact boat when planning for a gearbox. I went with a 3.2 route. I sussed out all my options and talked to a tonne of people around what options there were for GTR's(excluding auto's here):

* Getrag 6 speed
* Gearset
* Sequential

Personally, I wanted peace of mind hence why I didnt go for a gearset or 6 speed. I mean, by the time you've done either of those 2 options you wouldn't get much change from 15K right? Plus, I dont know how long they would last with the fat torque of the 3.2...I also scoped out the sequentials out there, and in the end I went with the Albins as to me it seemed like the pick of the crop(Not saying the other Seq manufactures are shit, but its just my opinion). Plus, the Albins kit literally comes with everything minus the clutch.. no faffing around looking for tailshafts/transfer cases etc.

 

I have a Holinger and love it, I bought it a few years about now circa 2015

 

however Albins and Samsona's seem to be the pick of the bunch these days.

 

Particularly now the albins can slot straight in without panel beating and the adjuster gear to tweak ratio's is very convenient and samsonas seems to put up with the beatings

23 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

Holinger sequential for GTR uses helical cut gears

I was under the impression you could get either, as the Holinger GRA-6N box for the group A R32 cars were straight cut, and was essentially the same ?

Anyway I would echo above - Albins all the way. Compared to Samsonas they have definitely more all round Motorsport proven track record within Australia and are completely Australian. In off road like 800hp+ buggies with monster torque that race here in the NT Finke desert race, there is basically only one manual box used that wins.

Albins

I called them not that long ago to ask a few questions about their sequential, they never mentioned anything about the option for straight cut? But I didn鈥檛 ask either, but the standard sequential design is helical cut. 

Standard option looks like it, as the pictures in Holinger GTR workshop manual are all showing helical gears on the disassembly except reverse. Main and counter shafts are both splined on gear so they definitely can do it. The earlier GTR boxes the Hollinger GRA-6N and HKS-GTR were only straight cut.

2012 GTR MANUAL.pdf

Same experience as Moray - when I spoke to Holinger couple months ago - helical only.  Not sure why that is now - as I'm sure you could get them in straight cut years ago.

I went with the new Albins ST6-LP - i believe its the only one with a internal oil pump.!

 

14 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

I called them not that long ago to ask a few questions about their sequential, they never mentioned anything about the option for straight cut? But I didn鈥檛 ask either, but the standard sequential design is helical cut. 

 

Edited by IMACUL8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
  • Create New...