Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,
i am building a 350z drift missile with a florida imported Aristo 2jz GTE VVTI


My partner and I are trying to make it as "budget friendly" as possible while still retaining reliability and decent performance. We have a build list of new parts such as top mount manifold, turbo, gaskets, studs, oil pump, water pump etc etc. 


So here is my question.... while the engine is out, we were planning on doing all the rotating assembly bearings and we were wondering If it would make sense that we pull the pistons out, clean it up, then replace all rings, then finally hone the cylinder bores with a honing pad/stone ourselves

I know that you shouldnt trouble the rings and bores if you are making good compression but if the engine is out... wouldnt it be a good idea? Is this too risky? i have seen a few people who have just got a hone and new rings and reused the stock rods and pistons but i would like to know if honing is something you can do your self and still achieve good results. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481218-engine-rebuild-question/
Share on other sites

EDIT: look i know that you  "CAN" do it your self and there is a few videos on youtube who show them selves at home with a drill and what not but i want to know if what they are doing is wrong and if they are just a set of bone heads. so yeah thats my question... lol ?

Yes, you can. The main issue is the drill speed too fast and it cuts too shallow a cross pattern. Something slow, eg cordless drill on low speed and a fast up/down motion, will work fine. Does't need long to work. Yes you should replace with new rings while out, and from there yes you should re-hone.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Dil-Dog said:

 

I know that you shouldnt trouble the rings and bores if you are making good compression

If you pull it to pieces and the cylinder bores don't show much wear and the rings look good why touch that at all unless you are paying to do it right?

31 minutes ago, phelbas said:

If you pull it to pieces and the cylinder bores don't show much wear and the rings look good why touch that at all unless you are paying to do it right?

Actually, This ^.

Just because you pull it apart doesn't mean you automatically do anything. The only thing you have to do is carefully inspect and measure everything. If the bores are round and especially if there is no nasty lip at the top and especially especially if the hone marks are still visible, then doing anything to the bores is unjustified. You always assess what you have before deciding what you're going to do to it.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

You always assess what you have before deciding what you're going to do to it.

 

 

And then forget what you decided and mash the go button on that Nitto stroker kit.

  • Haha 1
2 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

Humorous reference to the natural tendency to completely blow the budget despite the intentions going into the build. 

i was attempting my own humorous reference to accidentally purchasing hks h-beams (and a billet crank, which a workshop “lost”) 

hey, each to their own...but, if i'd picked up a 2nd hand unknown engine, I had it apart, and was rebuilding it to ensure it was fresh and ready to last for me, there's no way i'd be sticking with the rings that were in it; i'd replace them along with bearings, water pump, timing belt, anything else that might " look fine". A set of rings is like 200 bucks, a hone does effectively nothing to the bore size, and pulling out and dismantling the engine is one Fkton of work, as anyone that's ever done it knows, so replace them while it's all apart, if budget isn't the utmost concern.

  • Thanks 1
On 25/09/2020 at 6:57 PM, Duncan said:

Are you putting a 2jz in a 350z for a cheap project?

4th time this week, thanks skid factory.

Adam lz has put more Jz engines into cars then the skid Factory

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...