Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Rebuild Question....


Recommended Posts

Hello,
i am building a 350z drift missile with a florida imported Aristo 2jz GTE VVTI


My partner and I are trying to make it as "budget friendly" as possible while still retaining reliability and decent performance. We have a build list of new parts such as top mount manifold, turbo, gaskets, studs, oil pump, water pump etc etc. 


So here is my question.... while the engine is out, we were planning on doing all the rotating assembly bearings and we were wondering If it would make sense that we pull the pistons out, clean it up, then replace all rings, then finally hone the cylinder bores with a honing pad/stone ourselves

I know that you shouldnt trouble the rings and bores if you are making good compression but if the engine is out... wouldnt it be a good idea? Is this too risky? i have seen a few people who have just got a hone and new rings and reused the stock rods and pistons but i would like to know if honing is something you can do your self and still achieve good results. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EDIT: look i know that you  "CAN" do it your self and there is a few videos on youtube who show them selves at home with a drill and what not but i want to know if what they are doing is wrong and if they are just a set of bone heads. so yeah thats my question... lol ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, you can. The main issue is the drill speed too fast and it cuts too shallow a cross pattern. Something slow, eg cordless drill on low speed and a fast up/down motion, will work fine. Does't need long to work. Yes you should replace with new rings while out, and from there yes you should re-hone.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Dil-Dog said:

 

I know that you shouldnt trouble the rings and bores if you are making good compression

If you pull it to pieces and the cylinder bores don't show much wear and the rings look good why touch that at all unless you are paying to do it right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, phelbas said:

If you pull it to pieces and the cylinder bores don't show much wear and the rings look good why touch that at all unless you are paying to do it right?

Actually, This ^.

Just because you pull it apart doesn't mean you automatically do anything. The only thing you have to do is carefully inspect and measure everything. If the bores are round and especially if there is no nasty lip at the top and especially especially if the hone marks are still visible, then doing anything to the bores is unjustified. You always assess what you have before deciding what you're going to do to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

3 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:

And then forget what you decided and mash the go button on that Nitto stroker kit.

what are you talking about.

PS if anyone wants 6 HKS step 2 2.8L H-beam rods I got from yahoo auctions on a whim, let me know. Cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

Humorous reference to the natural tendency to completely blow the budget despite the intentions going into the build. 

i was attempting my own humorous reference to accidentally purchasing hks h-beams (and a billet crank, which a workshop “lost”) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey, each to their own...but, if i'd picked up a 2nd hand unknown engine, I had it apart, and was rebuilding it to ensure it was fresh and ready to last for me, there's no way i'd be sticking with the rings that were in it; i'd replace them along with bearings, water pump, timing belt, anything else that might " look fine". A set of rings is like 200 bucks, a hone does effectively nothing to the bore size, and pulling out and dismantling the engine is one Fkton of work, as anyone that's ever done it knows, so replace them while it's all apart, if budget isn't the utmost concern.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, of course there's something wrong with the suspension. It was like that when it came out of the factory. Nissan wanted it to ride at least 50mm higher than most of us. They wanted it to be comfortable enough that the press and user reviews didn't complain about fillings being knocked out of teeth. The marketing people wanted to be able to talk about their fantastic new 4WS system (even if it was a pointless exercise, ha! pointless! Do you see what I did there? no? oh well. too bad). There weren't any semi-slicks or semi-semi-slicks or 18" wheels. Laser pointers didn't exist, so you couldn't easily build a bump steer gauge. There wasn't any better technology for suspension bushes than squishy shit in a condom. The list goes on.
    • I personally recommend not messing with factory suspension until you can clearly identify something wrong. For example I think the R33 might need some way to adjust front camber because I feathered the edges of the tires much more than the center of the tread doing some figure 8s and slalom.
    • Did some baking today, managed to fit it all in the oven. Turned out pretty good. Hopefully it holds up well to a bit of tool abuse.  Popped a few pieces on to see what the colours will look like. Pretty happy with how it came up.  Now to wait for the rest of the stuff to rock up
    • A creative mounting location would be from the roof. We totally need to bring back ludicrous stereo designs from AutoSalon days...
    • don't do. Fricken typos. Make me look like the sheeple.
×
×
  • Create New...