Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’ve done a search but haven’t been able to find anything. Is there anyone on here who understands turbos who would be able to explain the difference in how these turbos would behave / respond compared to one another. 
obviously housings can affect this so let’s compare 

1. 6870 gen 2, 1.0ar T4 divided rear 

2. 6875 gen 2, .96ar T4 rear 

now I know the 6875 is rated a little higher, will it actually make more power and how much will you sacrifice in lag? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Wouldn’t the compressor maps be the same for the fact they’re the same compressor wheel and housing 

Not sure, on their website says the 68/75 is a more modern design turbine

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944123
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, SiR_RB said:

68mm comp wheel will max out well before the 75 rear 

 

So there would be no reason to go 6875 over 6870? 
this is what I’m trying to find out, I’d like to actually talk to someone who is really switched on with turbos and not tied to any one brand. When I sell my motor I’ll probably let it go with the entire hot side. As my new motor is a 2.7, I’d like a turbo that is responsive, but can still make decent power and give a decent push when turned up. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944315
Share on other sites

Why not the 6466 then ? I tossed up going the 6870, then I thought why ? People are making 500 - 600rwkw with them and it will always be more responsive than the 6870, so I went the 1.00a/r 6466.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944320
Share on other sites

As Bk said, seriously consider the 6466

 

if you have a full house head and a decent rear (1.00+ in size) I have seen the 6466 push 580ish kw and would be an absolute rocket on the street with amazing response with the 2.7

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944326
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, BK said:

Why not the 6466 then ? I tossed up going the 6870, then I thought why ? People are making 500 - 600rwkw with them and it will always be more responsive than the 6870, so I went the 1.00a/r 6466.

This is what I’m thinking, but I’m also not a Precesion fan boy, so I’d like to know all my options, I’ve heard good things about the Garrett 3584rs, mixed reviews on the new G series, good things about Borg Warner, I’ve also looked at Xona rotor? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944327
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, SiR_RB said:

As Bk said, seriously consider the 6466

 

if you have a full house head and a decent rear (1.00+ in size) I have seen the 6466 push 580ish kw and would be an absolute rocket on the street with amazing response with the 2.7

Did 146mph on the 580kw blue line dyno graph

 

have not been back since the tweaking of exhaust setup, also going a CNC Shimless head at the moment and redoing the pipework etc.

 

Keen too see how far we can push the 6466

 

dyno.thumb.jpg.9ff39030b8dd4f21abf51a2759c27089.jpg

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944332
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, hattori hanzo said:

Did 146mph on the 580kw blue line dyno graph

 

have not been back since the tweaking of exhaust setup, also going a CNC Shimless head at the moment and redoing the pipework etc.

 

Keen too see how far we can push the 6466

 

dyno.thumb.jpg.9ff39030b8dd4f21abf51a2759c27089.jpg

 

 

What size engine is that on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944333
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

This is what I’m thinking, but I’m also not a Precesion fan boy, so I’d like to know all my options, I’ve heard good things about the Garrett 3584rs, mixed reviews on the new G series, good things about Borg Warner, I’ve also looked at Xona rotor? 

My problem with the new Garrett turbos is there’s currently no twin scroll option

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944334
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, SiR_RB said:

What rear is on the 64 mate 

it was .84 with the 146mph

Have since gone 1.15 but did not get any massive changes, have since gone to 4" dump and CNC head to assist unlocking a few more ponies.

goal is 150mph on a 6466

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944360
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

it was .84 with the 146mph

Have since gone 1.15 but did not get any massive changes, have since gone to 4" dump and CNC head to assist unlocking a few more ponies.

goal is 150mph on a 6466

 

What gearbox?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944366
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

it was .84 with the 146mph

Have since gone 1.15 but did not get any massive changes, have since gone to 4" dump and CNC head to assist unlocking a few more ponies.

goal is 150mph on a 6466

 

What boost was that at mate?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944368
Share on other sites

Had a chat with the guy from Garrett turbos yesterday about turbo options, he recommended the G30 900hp or G35 900, said they would offer good response and solid top end, another option is the G35 1050hp, this turbo is to supersede the 3584rs and will be released in a T4 divided rear housing option in the 1st quarter of 2021. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944382
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...