Jump to content
SAU Community

Apex power fc

Aphonechanh
 Share

Recommended Posts

Aphonechanh Contributor

Aphonechanh

Posted
Posted

I know it is outdated and there are plenty better options but more expensive. I recently was offered a deal on one for 500$ US dollars. My question is is it still worth to buy or hold off and save for a Haltech etc... I have an RB25det r33. If I hold off and save for a more expensive one, it'll be about 6 months give or take. Opinions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481733-apex-power-fc/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I think the PowerFC is fine for 90% of use cases, they have been running these engines properly for decades. As Josh said, you need to consider whether you can find a tuner familiar with it as that makes a big difference to the cost of tuning.

BTW if budget it an issue, keep in mind you will need a tune as well, cost 500-1000USD I guess

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481733-apex-power-fc/#findComment-7945240
Share on other sites
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

Absolutely agree with the above and should be fit for your purpose. The Power FC does give you a closer base to start with and less things need to be changed with the entire settings. I made over 500rwkw with one on the 32, but have since moved to the Elite 2500 and 2000 for the 2 single turbo 32 GTRs because of of things being used like wideband long term fuel trim, flex fuel, crank triggers, lots of extra engine sensors, engine protection strategies, can bus, etc.

For my 33 GTR, it's 330rwkw with a Power FC on low mounts on BP 98. No intention of more power or anything extra as mentioned above, so I will be staying on the Power FC for that car unless it fails.

So it's completely dependent on where you are aiming for modification wise really. If you intend to change lots of things down the track, an Elite would be worth waiting to get.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481733-apex-power-fc/#findComment-7945259
Share on other sites
Aphonechanh Contributor

Aphonechanh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the input all. I don't plan to track her or anything. Just a daily drive. I'm shooting towards 400hp or so. My tuner can work with an apex but he recommended the Haltech platinum pro as the power fc is outdated he said. If apex is fine then I'll shoot for it then. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481733-apex-power-fc/#findComment-7945280
Share on other sites
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

I don't really see where the Haltech Platinum pro fits in these days with the elite series being out for about 5 years now. They are still a +/- $2k ECU new. Why would you when an Elite 2500 is $3k and a 2000 is about $2.5k ?  Both are far superior units to the Platinum Pro, so l don't see why a Platinum Pro would even be a consideration these days for the cost.

You get an Apexi for $500 - $1000, well it's hard to argue with it for the pure result of how they run the car isn't it ? 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481733-apex-power-fc/#findComment-7945281
Share on other sites
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, joz said:

500 USD is a fair price. I'm not sure 500 USD can get you the full Nistune suite..... (Boards, cables, software license)

97% of car owners don't tune their own cars, so they wouldn't need to purchase the cable nor would they need to purchase the software.

Their preferred tuning shop would have the required cable and software. The shop license has no limits to the amount of Nistune it can tune.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481733-apex-power-fc/#findComment-7945557
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...