Jump to content
SAU Community

Driveshaft length


Recommended Posts

Hello!

I am finally about to get started on this manual swap for my R34 gt, The only thing I am left with is getting a driveshaft. I haven't been able to find any oem R34 gtt 2 piece driveshafts so I have concluded to getting a custom 1 piece drive shaft. I need the length as I am in no position to drop the auto trans and get measurements.

 

Any feedback is greatly appreciated thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, hardsteppa said:

Try Alpha Omega, and use one of their 1piece aluminium shafts.

I heard mixed opinions on using a 1 piece. Do you have any experience with a 1 piece aluminum? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 2/16/2021 at 9:32 AM, NickER34 said:

Hello!

I am finally about to get started on this manual swap for my R34 gt, The only thing I am left with is getting a driveshaft. I haven't been able to find any oem R34 gtt 2 piece driveshafts so I have concluded to getting a custom 1 piece drive shaft. I need the length as I am in no position to drop the auto trans and get measurements.

 

Any feedback is greatly appreciated thanks.

did you go through alpha omega in the end an did you find the correct measurements as I'm in the same boat at the moment 😅

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

I just got my alpha omega one for my R34 gtt and I'm worried I measured incorrectly as I'm hearing a rubbing/scraping noise only when it's in gear and theres nothing visible I can see where it's rubbing 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is worth noting that the length of a 1 piece in a R34 is above what is considered terminal RPM at ~200ish kmh.

Fine for the street. I got a custom 2 piece made. If you get one made of exotic materials you may be okay, but if you do that level of thinking get a 2 piece.

Mine was $700. Remember that if you are doing a manual conversion you can just use stock manual tailshafts (or the one half that is different).

All of the bearings and bushings can be replaced nowadays. Ignore the whole "you cant rebuild a 2 piece because some bits are not available" because they now are with a search.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...