Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 29/04/2021 at 7:17 AM, BK said:

That won't cut it for a fuel pump. More like this on a heat sink.

HT-030202_IS.pdf 1.52 MB · 4 downloads

image.png.d407caa13cdd165b3da039875ed91321.png

 

100 Amp DC Solid State Relay with Heat Sink (windandsolar.com)

hey ben thanks again mate. attached a link of a 100amp one i found much like picture above. let me know if you approve im excited to give these a try. still learning way to much everyday

1 hour ago, BK said:

Yep that's it, the same as the Haltech or Crydom ones. That's a pretty good price too.

i wonder why they are priced so much differently look at these ones i found and no heat sink D1D100 Sensata/crydom, SSR, 100A, 100V (newark.com)

i dont understand how the heat sinks work. does it literally just pull heat from the relay as it warms up because of the shape of cooling fins much like some aftermarket diff covers? 

 

26 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

i dont understand how the heat sinks work. does it literally just pull heat from the relay as it warms up because of the shape of cooling fins much like some aftermarket diff covers? 

 

Yep, purely heat dissipation. As Dose pipe said the heat sink is essential if PWM control is used. If just for on / off switching not so much.

  • Like 1

ok cool ill make sure too mount the haltech ones to some cooling fins and do it right. im done frying pumps. gotta slay some trees and finish up this mess, then we are gunna tune it up on e85

 

lose the spruce.jpg

  • Like 1
23 hours ago, BK said:

So you are going to pulse width modulate pumps for speed control ?

this is how we wired it last night. one pump running all the time. other pump kicks in at 10psi. base fuel pressure is 45psi. nothing fancy yet. it pulled 580whp at 23 psi i was very happy with that. i havent got the built motor in there yet so this is as far as im going to push it for now. it feels extremely fast for now. 

yes. i didnt even know what pwm was until you mentioned it bro. like i said i really am trying to learn all this stuff as i go im no where near on your level mate. the tuning, the pump setups, trigger kits, was all newish to me as im sure you know with the 100 questioned ive asked you over the year. i was just a very old school gtr owner that fixed my twin gtr as it broke back in the day.  this is my first shot at a hopefully reliableish single set up as well. i have been practicing my tig welding tho and getting pretty good,  im going to do all the piping on the bmw. just been busy with trees but taking a few days off hopefully soon to get some work done on the beamer, dyno vids uploaded, and hopefully some vids of smoking some hellcats and r35's. 

  • Like 1

Well i know this thread got a little wanky, but i have to eat my foot on something and jump back to why i even started this thread. the whole problem was when we turned the set screw in to tighten down on the cherry sensor i must have ate my wheaties that morning because i crushed the sensor which is why it would read irratic. prp has since changed it to jam nuts one ach side of the bracket(prp wierdness) and once we tightened the jam nuts down we had to grind off the nuts on one side so it wouldnt rub on the stock crank pulley.  now made some serious power with the prp trigger and e85. doing another pull tonight on 25 psi

  • Like 3
6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Sexual

oh mate. the building is literally falling apart every time we do a pull. wellness. very humbling unit i truely dont give a rats ass about jz's anymore. long live the forever oil starving/weakrod bolts/ head gasket/ bad oil pump RB26 who cares i love her let make some power see what a stocker can handle. going till we lift the head

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
15 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

You may want to source another block to start the build with, they love to crack the decks with big power on stock internals 

You sound experienced lol...

 

17 hours ago, r32-25t said:

You may want to source another block to start the build with, they love to crack the decks with big power on stock internals 

i have been building a motor the whole time the car build has been going on. just took some time with machinging as we were only using the stocker to fab everything up but now fak it gunna see waht it can do. it was a stock r33 motor in MINT condition. i bought 3500 dollars in sonic testing equipment and the block was unreal. i was considering sending it to herman an prp to confirm my test. but it was clear the block has seen no abuse the end bearings were still in great shape.  i couldnt care less if i broke the block ive read over a million threads about it im well aware good chap lol.  you can see it in about the middle of my build thread. the block is finally complete with a prp brace. Head is now ported and finished. just have to assemble it then we will install it end of month, so shouldnt have any cracking issues. im using a 6466 on the new engine. cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...