Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, QLDR31 said:

Apparently the NEO has no washer in the inlet cam.

image.thumb.png.0c1bcecb1c4fc791e890b41b00506b03.png

On the weekend I got the timing belt on. Did another rookie error had my torque wrench set to fp instead of nm. Over torqued the tensioner. So I tossed my new stud and nut and reused my old ones.

I bought a stud install/remove kit. The remove part is too long to remove the tensioner studs but the install part works well. I loctited the smaller stud.

My engine didn't have original the cam cover bolts so I have ordered them (another 3-4 week wait). Apparently the NEO bolts are different to everything else. But I have plenty to go on with.

image.thumb.jpeg.ef55564564dd1f7db0acc275ff380d54.jpeg

Just make sure it has NEO cam covers as that’s why the bolts are different. The gasket on NEO covers is different as well

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
On 3/15/2023 at 5:41 AM, RBW49N said:

Just make sure it has NEO cam covers as that’s why the bolts are different. The gasket on NEO covers is different as well

Thanks, I didn't know that. I got cam cover gaskets in the OEM gasket kit so should be ok.

I bought a 29 piece silicon hose set today on eBay under $445 with tax. See how it goes.

The other day my cam cover bolts turned up and surprise surprise they look like what I already had. I knew they were different to older RB engines but didn't realize they were normal looking bolts.

 

2 hours ago, QLDR31 said:

Thanks, I didn't know that. I got cam cover gaskets in the OEM gasket kit so should be ok.

I bought a 29 piece silicon hose set today on eBay under $445 with tax. See how it goes.

The other day my cam cover bolts turned up and surprise surprise they look like what I already had. I knew they were different to older RB engines but didn't realize they were normal looking bolts.

 

Yeah they look like bolts someone found lying around the shed don’t they. 

On 4/23/2023 at 2:42 PM, RBW49N said:

Yeah they look like bolts someone found lying around the shed don’t they. 

O well I got shiny new ones now. Would of preferred to save the $60 for something else.

I noticed the oil cooler has a tiny leak so I bought three the o'rings for that. I thought they would be with the gasket kit. R33 manual says to torque oil cooler to oil filter bracket to 34-44nm.

Bolted on the exhaust manifold. My R33 manual said 3.9-4.9nm. Think this was a typo the exhaust heat cover are that torque. Another part of the manual says 27-31nm,

I still haven't bolted on the balancer. I was waiting till I have complete inlet and exhaust manifolds bolted on. Then hoist it up, bolt on the flywheel (so I can use it to lock the crankshaft). Then bolt the balancer on, timing belt covers and cam covers. Hopefully will be ready to drop in the engine bay by then.

Tips on torquing the cam covers? R33 manual says 2-3.9nm. Not sure how I can do this maybe hand tight. My 1/4inch torque wrench only goes down to 5nm.

4 minutes ago, QLDR31 said:

Not sure how I can do this maybe hand tight.

Exert about half the force required to make the 1/4" TW go click when set to 5, and call it done? Or just do them up to 5 on the basis that 2-4 Nm is barely more than a sneeze? Is your TW even sufficiently calibrated to know the difference between 4 and 5 Nm?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

The silicon hoses turned up yesterday. Most of them seem to match up. So do I need new hose clamps everywhere?

image.thumb.jpeg.557d802ef1b1e3ed68ee805bfce13457.jpeg

Thinking of tidying up the coolant hard pipes. I'm thinking: wire brush and rust disolver rusty bits. Clean off oil and grease and some silver gal paint.

image.thumb.jpeg.17686b07440d06c8d31c77a96210123c.jpeg

Replaced orange with black o'rings on the oil cooler. Also did the one between the block and the sandwich plate.

image.thumb.jpeg.b9b73b0d5dc987c53e479ed16ecc876f.jpeg

20 hours ago, QLDR31 said:

So do I need new hose clamps everywhere?

I reused most of the OEM spring clamps, you could replace the clamps if you wish, no real harm.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

I was putting new o'rings on the injectors today. Then I was trying to put the insulator? at the tip of the injector. They seem to break. I guess I'll need some new ones? Any tips?

image.thumb.jpeg.0a69e017d64f28adb8da27760cc130ee.jpeg

Slowly progressing:

image.thumb.jpeg.2ca4c5fc77e37bb95ddc2098e2209600.jpeg

  • Like 1
15 hours ago, QLDR31 said:

I was putting new o'rings on the injectors today. Then I was trying to put the insulator? at the tip of the injector. They seem to break. I guess I'll need some new ones? Any tips?

image.thumb.jpeg.0a69e017d64f28adb8da27760cc130ee.jpeg

Slowly progressing:

image.thumb.jpeg.2ca4c5fc77e37bb95ddc2098e2209600.jpeg

Looking good

Last weekend I got the harmonic balancer on, had to bolt the auto flywheel on so I could lock it with a thing I made up. Then removed the flywheel again. So I could bolt the engine back on the stand.

IMG_20230625_152105.thumb.jpg.91c57af57bcb1b29634e129a95d5f046.jpg

Also got the injectors on. The insulator things on the tips of injectors I managed to find 6 unbroken ones heated them up with heat gun and put them on. Luckily I had a spare set of injectors and rail to raid parts off.

This weekend i'm planning on bolting down the cam covers (buying a 1/4" torque wrench that goes down to 2Nm),  I got alloy cam halfmoon blockers, Bolting on the turbo and covers, bolting on the top of the intake manifold and finishing the plumbing. Should be pretty much ready then.

  • 1 month later...

I cut up some cable tie saddles to secure the coil wiring loom (the threads were already tapped to 5mm). The build is nearly done just need to figure out a few more hoses like the IAC valve and bolt the turbo on. Anyone got a pic of the IAC valve? I'm pretty sure I know how it plumbs just not certain (closest pipe to coils to the red bung in pic, middle pipe to throttle body, last pipe to coolant stuff below via long hose).

 

image.thumb.jpeg.0625aad12513fadd93ad3ee340d01504.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.5580979a0d40dfddfa7b466a296cb4ca.jpeg

Edited by QLDR31
more info
  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...

The engine and car are now in the same garage. I went to install the engine. It's been sitting in the same spot for a couple weeks. Found an oil leak. Luckily it was just the drain plug. I put the flex plate back on (93-103Nm). I can't find the torque spec for the four torque converter mounting bolts. They are smaller bolts then flex plate so probably less torque. Hopefully New years day i'll get the engine in. I also found a bunch of surface rust around where radiator goes so might tidy that up before putting the radiator in.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

The engine has been in for months now. Unfortunately something is wrong, bell housing bolts are in but there is a gap less than 10mm between bell housing and engine. The engine can't be turned in neutral, so something fowling. Note its an AWD auto and everything is original parts. I was thinking of putting longer bolts in bell housing that way engine and gear box can stay lined up, lever a gap between them and turn the engine until it lines up. Any tips/advice would be helpful. I'm planing on towing it to work so hopefully I can get it running, a few mechanics there to help me.

Definitely no gap is acceptable between engine and gearbox, I'd get it on a hoist, take the box off and check carefully before attempting to put it on again. 

Could be the fouling on the dowels on the engine, could be you have a manual instead of auto spiggot bush in the back of the crank, could be the input shaft was already bent (or it has been bent while installing), not sure what else, I've not dealt with an auto rb

 

 

  • Like 1

Thanks guys.

Hopefully nothing is fooked up.

The converter is meant to be bolted onto auto flywheel first hey? Not later. 

I like the hoist idea, I can do that at work. The tail shaft bolts are tight as fook and auto box is as greasy as fook. I guess ill need to put some wood between the sump and cross member to keep engine in position?

Doesn't have any manual stuff. Same engine and gearbox. That were original.

If the gearbox is busted i'll be looking for manual conversion.

1 hour ago, QLDR31 said:

Thanks guys.

Hopefully nothing is fooked up.

The converter is meant to be bolted onto auto flywheel first hey? Not later. 

I like the hoist idea, I can do that at work. The tail shaft bolts are tight as fook and auto box is as greasy as fook. I guess ill need to put some wood between the sump and cross member to keep engine in position?

Doesn't have any manual stuff. Same engine and gearbox. That were original.

If the gearbox is busted i'll be looking for manual conversion.

No the convertor needs to go onto the gearbox first 

  • Like 1

Thanks guys.

Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole?

Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece.

Im heading up there tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...