Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it. 

I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then. 

On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.31f94d63f14693a362e021f5a5cd0bde.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.4065b242bf2de6e9cac2decefe25a26c.jpeg

 

Edited by TurboTapin
  • Like 3

Hi,

where did you manage to get 32mm release bearing carrier, it's really hard to find one in NZ . I have sort of same setup with xtreme twin plate clutch kit. I have 19mm release bearing with 18mm carrier measured back of bearing to where fork sits but it isn't enough ,it hardly touches fingers once fork pushed all the way back, I measured out and find out I'm short of 18mm.

Thanks

1 hour ago, Satwinder said:

Hi,

where did you manage to get 32mm release bearing carrier, it's really hard to find one in NZ . I have sort of same setup with xtreme twin plate clutch kit. I have 19mm release bearing with 18mm carrier measured back of bearing to where fork sits but it isn't enough ,it hardly touches fingers once fork pushed all the way back, I measured out and find out I'm short of 18mm.

Thanks

Nissan would be your best bet 

  • Like 1
15 hours ago, Satwinder said:

Thanks,managed to find one from Australia.

Your local Nissan dealership should always be your first go to. Get your parts from the source, without the middle man. I also recommend you start an account at your dealership, I get 15% off with mine.

You would be appalled with some of the mark ups I see from third party distributors (200%+) 

  • Like 1

I finally got around to completing my WMI SS direct port tubing. I ordered a snow performance 6 port manifold but it seems they are now owned by Nitrous Express. It has the NX logo on both sides. I'm expecting this to lead to a lot of unwanted nitrous questions 😅

20250704_124408.thumb.jpg.3df55c5e6377ad65228fdd352cdb8864.jpg

20250704_124404.thumb.jpg.8e04885d0e6df7ece0e56ba03e356439.jpg

 

  • Like 2
17 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Hopefully that's not too confusing for the PoPo in Canada! Mr Plod even thinking you had Nitrous plumbed in on the street in Australia would lead to a 7-10 year stint in maximum security...

Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...