Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone sorry to ask a silly question but, I’m looking for an rb30 crank bolt however, being in the US it makes it pretty difficult and arp bolts are no where to be found. I do have an arp bolt for my 26 and was wondering if I could use it if I tap the crank. The thing the bothers me is the length of bolt. Do you all know the length difference?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483240-rb25-vs-rb26-crank-bolt/
Share on other sites

Tap the crank ?!

The thing that should bother you is the fact you want to weaken the crank to use a stronger bolt.

Platinum racing on their US site have an M16 ARP bolt that is compatible with RB30.

https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/arp-fasteners-nissan-rb25-rb30-harmonic-balancer-bolt

On 1/24/2022 at 11:11 PM, BK said:

Tap the crank ?!

The thing that should bother you is the fact you want to weaken the crank to use a stronger bolt.

Platinum racing on their US site have an M16 ARP bolt that is compatible with RB30.

https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/arp-fasteners-nissan-rb25-rb30-harmonic-balancer-bolt

Though that is true I can’t find the washer :(

  • 6 months later...

I ordered a RB20/RB25/RB30 12 point ARP crank bolt from Platinum Racing. I plan on just using the stock washer. Anyone know the torque valve for the ARP bolt? I know the shop manual is 45nm/330 Ftlbs. With the ARP bolt I feel like the torque value would be less. I searched everywhere here in the states and had to order it from PR. They are very hard to come by here. 

On 28/8/2022 at 12:49 AM, TXR32 said:

I ordered a RB20/RB25/RB30 12 point ARP crank bolt from Platinum Racing. I plan on just using the stock washer. Anyone know the torque valve for the ARP bolt? I know the shop manual is 45nm/330 Ftlbs. With the ARP bolt I feel like the torque value would be less. I searched everywhere here in the states and had to order it from PR. They are very hard to come by here. 

Pretty sure that’s the rb26 torque spec, the rb 20/25/30 is a lot lower 

On 8/27/2022 at 7:52 PM, r32-25t said:

Pretty sure that’s the rb26 torque spec, the rb 20/25/30 is a lot lower 

I'm confirming this. If my memory is correct, I believe it was somewhere around 240ftlb's. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...