Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Another option is going to Pickles and finding a clapped out smashed up R33 NA auto for cheap. Strip all the interior parts, whatever else you need.

Then drop in a Barra motor, ZF8HP, 500kW dis dat stock internals.

On 10/06/2022 at 1:24 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Another option is going to Pickles and finding a clapped out smashed up R33 NA auto for cheap. Strip all the interior parts, whatever else you need.

Then drop in a Barra motor, ZF8HP, 500kW dis dat stock internals.

That is a great option. I would have to get a donor car anyway. I was already deciding between rb and barra. Barra are really cheap so might go that option.

 

On 10/06/2022 at 1:30 PM, dyl33 said:

6j7769.thumb.jpg.fecc0630bb9d8db8de248f1993fff692.jpg

I can agree with you on that. I dont even know what the point of that was (I guess he was testing out his angle grinder haha).

On 10/06/2022 at 1:20 PM, admS15 said:

Man, the time to build up a skyline from a shell was 5-8 years ago when the parts where plentiful and cheap. Anyone selling anything these days thinks it's made from gold.

5 years ago I bought a complete good condition R33 interior and boot trims minus front door cards for $50. Good luck even trying to find that stuff now.

 

Anyway, please post updates and can we get an ETA of when we will see a skid vid. Thanks.

 

Yeah as I said I will probably buy a donor car. Skid vid will happen as soon as an engine gets in car. Give it a couple months haha

On 6/10/2022 at 3:32 PM, PerthR33GTST said:

I can agree with you on that. I dont even know what the point of that was (I guess he was testing out his angle grinder haha).

No. It's been posted in this thread before. That sort of cut is what is done to prevent anyone from attempting to put a written off car back on the road. The fact of this thing coming up "clean" without an entry on a WOVR is a mystery.

  • Like 2
On 6/10/2022 at 3:38 PM, PerthR33GTST said:

Give it a couple months haha

Haha, that is funny. So wildly unrealistic budget expectations and time frame.

 

Dude, abort.

write down the bits you need and put a price next to it. You spent 400 on a subframe that still needs heaps  of stuff. 

 

this "build" will burn cash beyond belief.

 

 

 

anyway, weld that roof up first and show results. And rustproof it so it doesnt rust apart in a few years.

On 10/06/2022 at 4:11 PM, Ben C34 said:

Haha, that is funny. So wildly unrealistic budget expectations and time frame.

 

Dude, abort.

write down the bits you need and put a price next to it. You spent 400 on a subframe that still needs heaps  of stuff. 

 

this "build" will burn cash beyond belief.

 

 

 

anyway, weld that roof up first and show results. And rustproof it so it doesnt rust apart in a few years.

I was joking of course it will take way longer. And yeah I will weld up the roof ASAP. And yeah I will rethink the plan. 

Parts I have now are (Have only spent 600 so far + 300 for shell, and got parts off some of my friends that they just had laying around.)

-Rear Subframe

-Hood/Bonnet

-Doors

-Boot

-Tein Coilovers

-Rear Bumper

-Boot

 

On 10/06/2022 at 3:56 PM, GTSBoy said:

No. It's been posted in this thread before. That sort of cut is what is done to prevent anyone from attempting to put a written off car back on the road. The fact of this thing coming up "clean" without an entry on a WOVR is a mystery.

Yeah well I can repair that. And have checked VIN + Engine number with the Department of Transport and they said it is clean (Probably should be written off but for some reason it has not been).

Not to be an ass. But if you think A) you can repair that or B) its a good idea. You are truely an idiot. 

As stated many times the cost and effort involved would be astronomical, and in the end you'll still end up with a heap of shit.

 

 

Edited by dyl33
  • Like 1
On 10/06/2022 at 6:01 PM, dyl33 said:

Not to be an ass. But if you think A) you can repair that or B) its a good idea. You are truely an idiot. 

As stated many times the cost and effort involved would be astronomical, and in the end you'll still end up with a heap of shit.

 

 

Alright I'll abandon the project. People are saying it is too much work

On 6/11/2022 at 1:59 PM, PerthR33GTST said:

Alright I'll abandon the project. People are saying it is too much work

Next time you come up another crazy ass idea let us know and we will sort  you out! 

  • Haha 1
On 11/06/2022 at 2:09 PM, admS15 said:

It's a bonnet FFS, please cease calling it a friggin hood. Bloody yanks.

f**king hell idk what to call it anymore

 

On 11/06/2022 at 5:10 PM, Ben C34 said:

Next time you come up another crazy ass idea let us know and we will sort  you out! 

Great idea 🤣

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...