Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25 Starting Issues, Possible The CAS

tylink720
 Share

Recommended Posts

tylink720 Contributor

tylink720

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I'm having some starting issues with my rb25det neo. Its in a pretty much stock R34 GTT with an Elite 2000. It will just crank and not start, but sometimes will fire right up. I'm wondering if its my CAS that is the issue, but once it does start, it seems to run great.

It started this year after the Haltech install. Never had an issue before, and it worked perfectly for a week after installing the haltech too. The first time it happened, I could smell unburnt fuel, so I pulled the fuel pump fuse and it started up, so I thought it was just flooded. Now that doesn't work. 

I put the timing light on it again, and the crank timing marks were nowhere to be found. Took the cas off thinking the key snapped, but it was fine. Put it back on and it started, and I checked the timing again and it was lined back up. Its almost like the ecu was seeing the timing 180 degrees out somehow. This has happened multiple times now, including this morning.

Some things I've tried:

  • I've taken out each coilpack and I get spark from all of them while turning my cas, and I hear the injectors clicking too.
  • I've synched my timing with the ecu each time.
  • I've cleaned the cas with sensor cleaner.
  • I've logged the ecu while cranking and it's getting signal from the cas.
  • I've looked over some wiring and can't see frays or anything. 
  • Double checked my trigger settings, and they are the same as the original base map

I'm nervous to drive around now as it seems to be random when it wants to start. And it seems strange that once it actually starts, it runs great. Any ideas? I don't know anyone with a confirmed working cas otherwise I'd try swapping to see it it helped. 
 

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

What is the condition of your battery as voltage may be dropping below arming/trigger setting. Adjust them if need be.

Check that and if not the problem invest in a NZwiring trigger kit. Super easy to install and setup too.
https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/

  • Like 2
tylink720 Contributor

tylink720

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey thanks for the reply. Yep I've been looking at some trigger kits so I might just have to take the plunge and buy one.

The battery seems to be good, and I've also tried starting while being jumped by another running car, with no luck. I will see if I can find the those voltage settings in the ECU and give it a go.

tylink720 Contributor

tylink720

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update on this:

I got the car sketchily started and made it home now. I had to add 40 degrees to the TDC Angle setting in the Haltech and then it barely started but idled like crap. Put the timing light on it and sure enough the timing was out by about the 40 degrees. I put the same number I had before back in, 115, and its back to proper timing and idled fine.  

Somethings off when its cranking it seems. I'm planning on just buying the trigger kit now

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 6/21/2022 at 9:09 AM, tylink720 said:

Update on this:

I got the car sketchily started and made it home now. I had to add 40 degrees to the TDC Angle setting in the Haltech and then it barely started but idled like crap. Put the timing light on it and sure enough the timing was out by about the 40 degrees. I put the same number I had before back in, 115, and its back to proper timing and idled fine.  

Somethings off when its cranking it seems. I'm planning on just buying the trigger kit now

Scope the signal the ECU sees during cranking. This sounds like it could be a signal integrity issue.

tylink720 Contributor

tylink720

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 6/21/2022 at 4:44 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Scope the signal the ECU sees during cranking. This sounds like it could be a signal integrity issue.

I will try this as well thanks. I've ordered up the NZ Wiring kit so hopefully that will be here soon too

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
tylink720 Contributor

tylink720

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Another update for this. I put the NZ Wiring trigger kit on and it was doing the same thing. Scoped the signals and was getting perfect readings off of it. 

Ended up going through all of my fuses again and found one had blown, one of these ENG CONT fuses.image.thumb.png.3115d0907a47a0d115022a1c07edca46.png

Replaced it and the last 3 starts have been flawless. I'm hoping that this is finally the fix for it!

Side note, what do these 2 fuses actually do? I'm wondering how the car was even able to run if it was blown?


 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yes, but the weird thing is, a standard 33 gtst runs fine with that fuse blown, while at least some aftermarket ECUs need it (it was actually absent from factory in S2 which is even weirder.) I've never traced the wiring for it though

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
tylink720 Contributor

tylink720

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

The starting issue seems to be fixed due to replacing that fuse. I also emailed NZ Wiring and he gave me some tips and I have the car working very well now. Had to lower my trigger arming voltages a lot compared to the numbers in the install instructions. Thanks for the help!

I do get a trigger error once every couple of drives. It seems to happen when I press in the clutch during a lower rpm decel, or when letting out the clutch at a low rpms. It will happen once, then wont come up again for the rest of the drive or even multiple drives after. Strange

Edited by tylink720

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...