Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just finished a intake plenum removal and installation and while I was at it, I installed a remote mounted oil sender unit from RHDautodesigns and a greddy oil filter relocation. 
 

after I put everything back, I started up the car and noticed that I wasn’t getting any oil pressure. The needle didn’t move at all. 
 

the car was running for a solid 2-3 minutes at idle before I noticed this. Engine still ran smooth though. 
 

I’m not sure how to diagnose or fix this issue. Anyone got suggestions for me?

Agreed, and most likely just a gauge issue if it is not knocking after 2 minutes.

More information or pics needed about what you have plumbed where....

Alright thanks guys, i was losing sleep over this. But i was thinking about it and when i started the car up, i forgot to tighten one of the auxiliary screws on the greddy oil filter relocation kit and oil was squirting out of it, so that means i do have pressure...

I drew an arrow on the screws that i forgot to tighten

image.thumb.png.05b6b5dc79e891678e939da9fd76c2cf.png

 

And this is the remote mounted oil sender unit. In the photo i didn't have the wire plugged in, but i drew an arrow to where its not plugged in to the wire down at the bottom. There is a connector down there was a rubber boot on it. 

image.thumb.png.73f6281b4e9f45b97fcafd13909a6b90.png

How do i diagnose the gauge? Should i try to put the old sender unit on and see if the new one was just faulty? 

Well, you could see if there is pressure at the pressure sender tapping point by not having anything connected there and see how much oil comes out as you crank it. After that, then yes, start to look at providing pressure to the sender by other means, to see if it can sense any pressure at all, and/or connect some other oil pressure measuring device at the same spot (ie your old one) and see what it says.

I have to be frank - these problems usually turn out to be user error. It is hard to guide troubleshooting for things that are so completely random as user error. It's not like we're troubleshooting known, common failure modes of the stock equipment. You have to examine what you've done very closely, take it apart (physically and mentally) and see what ball bearings (real or metaphorical) fall out.

3 hours ago, Butters said:

Is the new oil pressure sensor the same type ?

im not sure, its the one i got from RHDautodesigns

https://www.rhdautodesign.com/product-page/nissan-skyline-r32-33-34-remote-mount-oil-pressure-sending-unit-kit

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Well, you could see if there is pressure at the pressure sender tapping point by not having anything connected there and see how much oil comes out as you crank it. After that, then yes, start to look at providing pressure to the sender by other means, to see if it can sense any pressure at all, and/or connect some other oil pressure measuring device at the same spot (ie your old one) and see what it says.

I have to be frank - these problems usually turn out to be user error. It is hard to guide troubleshooting for things that are so completely random as user error. It's not like we're troubleshooting known, common failure modes of the stock equipment. You have to examine what you've done very closely, take it apart (physically and mentally) and see what ball bearings (real or metaphorical) fall out.

yeah that makes sense. I think i just gotta dig into it then, cause theres really no way of you guys knowing what i did wrong. I kinda jumped on here cause none of my friends know about RB's so im treating it as if you guys were my buddies so i wont freak out haha

I have a question about the OEM oil pressure gauge. I'm assuming it's an electronic oil pressure gauge? 

If i were to install an aftermarket electronic guage by using one of the outlets on the Greddy Oil Filter Relocation device, would i have to install another oil pressure sender unit on it? 

 

Hi guys, thanks for your help, but i think i got it sorted out. I'm going to buy a Haltech Can gauge. Install a oil pressure sensor to the greddy relocation kit, then wire it to my haltech ECU, and use the haltech can gauge as the display.

 

5 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

would i have to install another oil pressure sender unit on it? 

Senders and gauges are usually "matched" in that there is a relationship between the sensed oil pressure and the voltage or resistance that is the output of the sender. If the gauge doesn't match that range, then it will read wrong. And obviously enough there's no standard for those ranges. A random selection of gauge and sender might work, but you would be made to trust it unless you absolutely knew that they were the same calibration.

4 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

Hi guys, thanks for your help, but i think i got it sorted out. I'm going to buy a Haltech Can gauge. Install a oil pressure sensor to the greddy relocation kit, then wire it to my haltech ECU, and use the haltech can gauge as the display.

Solid idea. Hard to see why you didn't go there first!

7 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

Hi guys, thanks for your help, but i think i got it sorted out. I'm going to buy a Haltech Can gauge. Install a oil pressure sensor to the greddy relocation kit, then wire it to my haltech ECU, and use the haltech can gauge as the display.

 

Please please please strongly consider picking up an IC7 dash rather then using the old school CAN gauge. That CAN gauge is not cheap and is very limited in it's display. The dash can display/output so much more plus it is sexy, makes coffee and cures cancer. I'm sure it also has other superpowers I haven't discovered yet. 

53 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Please please please strongly consider picking up an IC7 dash rather then using the old school CAN gauge. That CAN gauge is not cheap and is very limited in it's display. The dash can display/output so much more plus it is sexy, makes coffee and cures cancer. I'm sure it also has other superpowers I haven't discovered yet. 

Thanks for convincing me, i was actually looking at that and noticed the price wasjn't that much greater than the CAN gauge. I might go that route instead.

  • Like 1

Hey guys i need your help again. So today when i got home from work to diagnose this oil pressure sender unit, i connected a mechanical pressure gauge and got amazing oil pressure, which was good news because that means my engine is good. 

So i decided to put my hood back on (i removed the hood when i did the intake plenum job) and drive it. But when i got in to crank the engine, i lost electricity and that's when i noticed that the hood touches the battery terminals causing it to short out. After i made some adjustments to the battery location, the OEM oil pressure gauge started working again!! There is this big red connector thats an attachment on the positive battery terminal cable, does that have something to do with the gauges?

 

EDIT: Nevermind, i am an idiot, i had the battery terminals facing the headlights, but i looked up a photo of how it was before and the terminals should be facing the other way towards the firewall. 

Edited by kevboost7

i had the terminals on the correct positive and negative 🤣 cmon guys, im not that stupid haha

I just had the terminals where i drew the orange circles and arrows, rather than being closer to the inside

image.thumb.png.770a6f6df25129032181e4e42d0d85e9.png

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What an awesome idea to fit the facelift Lamborghini Diablo headlights. They are a perfect fit!
    • An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it
    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...