Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 12/21/2022 at 7:46 AM, Duncan said:

Connect a CAN analyser to the Link CAN and then connect that to the Android head unit by USB. I'll post up more details in the Stagea's thread when I get time over the break, a couple of things have been a pain

httpsstatics3.seeedstudio.comseeedfile20

https://www.seeedstudio.com/USB-CAN-Analyzer-p-2888.html

Depending on the generation of Link ECU - G4+ vs G4X,
the G4+ will transmit data to RealDash via the Link USB Tuning cable and an ECU configured 'Serial Datastream'
https://www.realdash.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21

Unfortunately the Serial Datastream > RealDash function isn't available in the G4X and is somewhat limited in parameters anyway.


That said - the CAN Analyser method Duncan suggested is definitely the way to go;
Not only because it opens endless possibilities with fully customizable CANBus Streams - allowing you to send almost any parameter from the Link ECU you want,
but due to RealDash having the ability to both send and receive CAN Data - RealDash can be setup as a CAN Keypad as well via triggers or onscreen "buttons"

Dash_Edit_3.thumb.png.e76cf83a3b0241e2939d75544672c3bc.png

  • Like 4
6 hours ago, jdniss said:

Depending on the generation of Link ECU - G4+ vs G4X,
the G4+ will transmit data to RealDash via the Link USB Tuning cable and an ECU configured 'Serial Datastream'
https://www.realdash.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21

Unfortunately the Serial Datastream > RealDash function isn't available in the G4X and is somewhat limited in parameters anyway.


That said - the CAN Analyser method Duncan suggested is definitely the way to go;
Not only because it opens endless possibilities with fully customizable CANBus Streams - allowing you to send almost any parameter from the Link ECU you want,
but due to RealDash having the ability to both send and receive CAN Data - RealDash can be setup as a CAN Keypad as well via triggers or onscreen "buttons"

Dash_Edit_3.thumb.png.e76cf83a3b0241e2939d75544672c3bc.png

Realdash can be setup as a can keypad?? 😳

 

Is this possible to setup with a phone or similar with a Haltech?

6 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

Just out of curiosity, what is the warm percentage on the left hand side above the water temp?

Just warm up enrichment percentage - I was chasing my tail on a few things and it was using it shortly for troubleshooting, but never got around to swapping it out for a different parameter.

It also had a 'VTC/NVCS Active' light for a while, along with current 4D Ignition value - but swapped them out for "CLL Fuel" Closed Loop Percentage and AFR Target.
The current config is sending across roughly 35 different parameters from the ECU - but only displaying 10 or so on that first page.

1 hour ago, Borci88 said:

Realdash can be setup as a can keypad?? 😳

Is this possible to setup with a phone or similar with a Haltech?

Yeh, at least with a Link ECU - this is being used on an Android phone currently - just to toggle different Boost Maps via CAN on that first page - you could create a whole page of buttons and replicate a keypad.
Effectively any ECU function that be toggled via CANBus, should be possible to toggle from RealDash ~ Launch Control activation, Intercooler/Water Spray, NOS activation, Fan activation, etc.

I don't have a Haltech ECU to test with, so couldn't tell you 100%;
Might be worth asking the question on the Realdash Forum - https://www.realdash.net/forum/index.php

  • Thanks 1
1 hour ago, Borci88 said:

Realdash can be setup as a can keypad?? 😳

Is this possible to setup with a phone or similar with a Haltech?

I'd be very keen to hear more about this as well! Also for a Haltech ECU.

Just having a bit of a search and it might depend. I have an Elite ECU and might be out of luck. Apparently they don't even support the Haltech CAN keypad and people have been asking for support for a long time [0]. If I see it right their official keypads work with the Nexus ECUs only.

Looks like Realdash can write via CAN though [1]. Not that it helps much if the ECU doesn't accept incoming messages.

 

[0] https://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?t=34357

[1] https://github.com/janimm/RealDash-extras/blob/master/RealDash-CAN/realdash-can-protocol.md#writing-can-frames-from-realdash-to-device

The developer has a full Haltech XML up on his Github,
some of the commands down the very bottom look pretty close to my current CAN "Send Button" toggle actions to the Link - the startbit and bitcount data matches those functions - so it may be possible..

https://github.com/janimm/RealDash-extras/blob/master/RealDash-CAN/XML-files/Haltech/haltech_v2_can.xml

 

Github Haltech XML

1353351089_HaltechXML.thumb.PNG.21836430ddcccc63fae2612c35462c74.PNG


My Link XML

232742881_LinkCANRecieve.thumb.PNG.99e1f91451f70fe8cb10b3137ca196f1.PNG

  • Like 1
On 21/12/2022 at 7:46 AM, Duncan said:

Connect a CAN analyser to the Link CAN and then connect that to the Android head unit by USB. I'll post up more details in the Stagea's thread when I get time over the break, a couple of things have been a pain

https://www.seeedstudio.com/USB-CAN-Analyzer-p-2888.html

Thanks for the link! Ordered one to have a bit of a play around.

I like the idea of not permanently installing a head unit, but instead just being able to plug in a cheap phone or tablet to try out some stuff or to log data. Use a good suction cup mount and run it that way. And it can all be stowed away in the glove box when not needed.

 

10 hours ago, jdniss said:

The developer has a full Haltech XML up on his Github,
some of the commands down the very bottom look pretty close to my current CAN "Send Button" toggle actions to the Link - the startbit and bitcount data matches those functions - so it may be possible..

Ooo, good stuff!

 

10 hours ago, BK said:

Hatech Elite supports canbus keypad if using NSP

Nice, thanks for mentioning that! Looks like NSP has been supporting the Elites since at least end of 2021.

https://www.haltech.com/news-events/nsp-for-elite-is-here/

Even if it isn't possible to use that converter to end up with a Haltech can keypad using a phone or tablet, do we still think it's possible to use the converter via USB into a phone/tablet and have it display can data?  Instead of going the haltech OBD2 Cable and Bluetooth/wifi dongle to your phone/tablet?

Yes, Haltech is one of many supported ECUs for Realdash.

Just to add one thing to jdniss's post above, I believe the CAN analyser is better (despite the stuffing around with wiring) than OBD2 or G4+ via USB as the refresh rate is much higher.

  • Like 1
22 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Yes, Haltech is one of many supported ECUs for Realdash.

Just to add one thing to jdniss's post above, I believe the CAN analyser is better (despite the stuffing around with wiring) than OBD2 or G4+ via USB as the refresh rate is much higher.

That's fantastic, I might start ordering some pieces and report back on if everyone was right and you can use your phone as a can keypad with a Haltech elite.

 

Is the file from GitHub installed into the can analyser or into a file in the haltech elite?

 

@BK are you saying that Haltech elite supports a HALTECH canbus keypad if you're using NSP, or that Haltech elites can support any type of canbus keypad as long as you're using NSP.

56 minutes ago, Borci88 said:

 

@BK are you saying that Haltech elite supports a HALTECH canbus keypad if you're using NSP, or that Haltech elites can support any type of canbus keypad as long as you're using NSP.

I have no idea about other keypads, but the Haltech canbus keypad become compatible with the Elite with a Nexus firmware release in March 2022. So using the latest 3.XX firmware you'd have to be using NSP not ESP for keypad.

  • Like 1
Just now, Borci88 said:

Is the file from GitHub installed into the can analyser or into a file in the haltech elite?

It looks to be the generic "CAN Definition" pre-loaded into RealDash to connect to a specific Haltech CAN stream.
In RealDash you'd load this file via Garage > *Door* > Dashboard > Connections > CAN Definition File > Haltech > CAN V2;
Then assuming you had the matched CAN Config loaded into the Haltech - it should start transmitting data to RealDash.
Not sure what that would be though - nothing jumps out at me in ESP/NSP.

In the Link ECU world the matching CAN Stream is for memory "Generic Dash" - then you'd select the corresponding "Link Short CAN" Definition file within RealDash to read/display the CAN data within that stream, on the RealDash side.


Nothing gets installed onto the CAN Analyzer per-say - you configure a CAN Bit Rate (ie. 1Mbits)  and CAN ID (ie. 1000) once, via the provided Seeedstudio software - this must match the CAN Setup on the ECU side, otherwise it won't work at all.

247666296_LinkCAN.thumb.PNG.6ddd3cf8cdfbdab85d47db1fde6949bb.PNG

  • Thanks 1
42 minutes ago, jdniss said:

It looks to be the generic "CAN Definition" pre-loaded into RealDash to connect to a specific Haltech CAN stream.
In RealDash you'd load this file via Garage > *Door* > Dashboard > Connections > CAN Definition File > Haltech > CAN V2;
Then assuming you had the matched CAN Config loaded into the Haltech - it should start transmitting data to RealDash.
Not sure what that would be though - nothing jumps out at me in ESP/NSP.

In the Link ECU world the matching CAN Stream is for memory "Generic Dash" - then you'd select the corresponding "Link Short CAN" Definition file within RealDash to read/display the CAN data within that stream, on the RealDash side.


Nothing gets installed onto the CAN Analyzer per-say - you configure a CAN Bit Rate (ie. 1Mbits)  and CAN ID (ie. 1000) once, via the provided Seeedstudio software - this must match the CAN Setup on the ECU side, otherwise it won't work at all.

247666296_LinkCAN.thumb.PNG.6ddd3cf8cdfbdab85d47db1fde6949bb.PNG


I'm now wondering if theres slim pickings that the Haltech setup will work as a can keypad + gauges, and whether or not it's just better to go with an OBD2 Wifi Adapter and have it only display gauges as that's tried and true with Haltech.

I can see that that github file was posted in 2021 meaning someone must have tried it out by now and either had some success or failure.. Is there a forum on that website talking about it at all? I certainly can't see one.

7 hours ago, Borci88 said:

are you saying that Haltech elite supports a HALTECH canbus keypad if you're using NSP, or that Haltech elites can support any type of canbus keypad as long as you're using NSP.

Unfortunately Haltech only supports Haltech branded Greyhill canbus keypads.

I recall it has to do it with the address used.

8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Unfortunately Haltech only supports Haltech branded Greyhill canbus keypads.

I recall it has to do it with the address used.

Unfortunately it makes sense, why would you allow cheaper universal keypads when you have your own ecosystem of products.

Just now, Borci88 said:

Unfortunately it makes sense, why would you allow cheaper universal keypads when you have your own ecosystem of products.

I remember reading somewhere Link now supports canbus keypads, and you can adapt whatever you like. I believe same applies to MoTec, just buy any Grayhill keypad and off you go.

No need to be locked into Haltech's ecosystem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...