Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, very long term lurker here. I always use the search function for most things but im stumped here. 

 

I got a built hks rb28 car from japan, it came with documentation of the build and dyno numbers, car should make around 600awhp. Ever since i received the car i hadnt floored it since it was tuned on japan fuel so i ordered a haltech 2500 and went for a tune locally. On the dyno we found that it was dropping fuel pressure from 4.1(idling pressure is at around 4 bar, i know that idle fuel pressure should be 3 bar this is another tell tale that somethings wrong ) to all the way leaning out so the tuner called it quits and told me i should probably replace my fuel pump. I ordered a bosch 044 with a new sock filter, 1050cc injectors, higher flowing fuel filter and a 30 amp relay for the fuel pump we also changed the fuel regulator to an AEM one.. went on the dyno and same exact problem occured except the tuner said its a little bit better. this time, he sent me off with a 6000rpm red line so i dont get into leaning out territory and keeping the car drivable. Here is what the car is doing on the fuel pressure with higher rpms. https://imgur.com/a/qjr8yuY the mechanic and tuner don't really know what the problem is and they are recommending to change all the fuel lines to new braided lines so everything is fresh or performing a fuel pressure test, i've spent close to 4k chasing this problem and im kinda burnt out. 

Could this be a leaking vent hose, either on the fuel tank or the charcoal cannister? maybe a bad fuel damper? replacing the fuel pump to a stronger one than before made car lean out a bit later in the rpms but still is running way too rich to lean, what could this mean? Any leads would help! 

thanks

Edited by damnonrs
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484256-frustrating-fuel-pressure-issue/
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

A single Bosch 040 isn't big enough........
Go to a modern drop in TI or bosch probaly 2x 460lph with a new or modded hanger and stage the 2nd pump at like 3500rpm and 50% TPS

im using a bosch 044 which is good enough for 600ps. but bosch 040 you said is also good for 700hp. my car leans out at 450hp on the dyno, i dont think this is a fuel supply issue, i think im chasing a vaccum or fuel pressure problem.

Did you recently purchase that Bosch 044? That fuel pump was released about 30 years ago and has been discontinued by Bosch... Even if it isn't a fake, there is no reason to use this pump over a modern fuel pump. 

If a pump is advertised as "supporting 600HP" that does not guarantee that it will indeed support 600HP on your build. Also, certainly the HP rating of the pump is at the motor and not at the wheels. 

There is a huge difference in the fuel pump requirement between a big NA V8 on pump 98 making 600HP and a small 4 cylinder turbo on e85 running 40+psi boost making 600HP.

In the defence of your 044, maybe it's 28 years old and has finally worn out lol. In any case replace the pump with something modern. I'd recommend starting with a Walbro 525 and going from there. You can always throw in a twin hanger and get a second one if need be later down the track. 

For $200 you can replace your dinosaur fuel pump and most likely resolve your issue. I don't understand why you are reluctant to do so. 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, damnonrs said:

im using a bosch 044 which is good enough for 600ps. but bosch 040 you said is also good for 700hp. my car leans out at 450hp on the dyno, i dont think this is a fuel supply issue, i think im chasing a vaccum or fuel pressure problem.

same thing ones internal one is external.
its 600hp is generous and at 4 bar of pressure and drops off shows its not big enough but hey what would I know..............


 

12 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Did you recently purchase that Bosch 044? That fuel pump was released about 30 years ago and has been discontinued by Bosch... Even if it isn't a fake, there is no reason to use this pump over a modern fuel pump. 

If a pump is advertised as "supporting 600HP" that does not guarantee that it will indeed support 600HP on your build. Also, certainly the HP rating of the pump is at the motor and not at the wheels. 

There is a huge difference in the fuel pump requirement between a big NA V8 on pump 98 making 600HP and a small 4 cylinder turbo on e85 running 40+psi boost making 600HP.

In the defence of your 044, maybe it's 28 years old and has finally worn out lol. In any case replace the pump with something modern. I'd recommend starting with a Walbro 525 and going from there. You can always throw in a twin hanger and get a second one if need be later down the track. 

For $200 you can replace your dinosaur fuel pump and most likely resolve your issue. I don't understand why you are reluctant to do so. 

My tuner put me on this fuel pump which actually made the flow a bit better than my previous pump. I attached a picture of what the car was doing in japan with a less flow fuel pump, we put it on a dyno here and it couldn’t even break 400hp with the fuel pump the car came with. Fuel pressure is all wacky and fluctuates. Also they made a new 044 pump  

57568952-CE68-46BC-9BB8-B0846A8E2CA4.jpeg

7 minutes ago, damnonrs said:

I also want to mention that the car gets about 150km on a full tank with normal driving and just spews fire non stop

Post your ESP map. 

Log every channel and go for a drive. Post your data log. 

 

22 minutes ago, damnonrs said:

My tuner put me on this fuel pump which actually made the flow a bit better than my previous pump. I attached a picture of what the car was doing in japan with a less flow fuel pump, we put it on a dyno here and it couldn’t even break 400hp with the fuel pump the car came with. Fuel pressure is all wacky and fluctuates. Also they made a new 044 pump  

57568952-CE68-46BC-9BB8-B0846A8E2CA4.jpeg

Just a FYI. The 044 is indeed gone mate. 

https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/blog/tech-product-overviews/the-044-is-dead-long-live-the-bosch-motorsport-200/#:~:text=After 28 years of setting,number%3A 0 580 254 044.

Another vote for the "044 is too small". It is too small. We all learned 20 years ago that you would need more than one such pump to support the sort of power you're wanting.

As to your fuel consumption issue......that's most likely to be a tune thing. Do as advised above.

  • Like 1
47 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Sounds like you need a new tuner, the fuel pump recommendation is one indicator that he/she may not be up to date with mainstream modern/proven products.

yea i kinda agree, hes smart and the car came with this problem from japan so it was the logical thing to go to a new fuel pump. but i agree maybe 044 wasnt the best choice. anyways the fuel pump is not the problem here, its a fuel pressure issue where it idles too high fuel pressure and drops under load.

 

I have attached some data logging. this was from the last time i drove the car, car is put to storage while im trying to figure out this problem. i think fuel pressure logging wasnt turned on by the tuner but i have attached a video of what the fuel pressure does under boost. https://imgur.com/a/qjr8yuY

I inspected every single line in the front and underneith. what im thinking is maybe a vaccum line or a vent line ontop of the fuel tank is broken and it cant build pressure under boost in the fuel tank. 

2022-12-06_0528pm_Logs323to386.csv

Not sure if the GT-Rs use them, but is there anything between the fuel pump and fuel tank lid/cover? On the S15s (no idea why) there's an over pressure valve that dumps fuel back into the tank when fuel pressure goes above 4 ish bar.

Looks like this:

image.thumb.png.3c6bb12048e280d41b32c033cd1c90ef.png

51 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Not sure if the GT-Rs use them, but is there anything between the fuel pump and fuel tank lid/cover? On the S15s (no idea why) there's an over pressure valve that dumps fuel back into the tank when fuel pressure goes above 4 ish bar.

Looks like this:

image.thumb.png.3c6bb12048e280d41b32c033cd1c90ef.png

from the googling i did, i dont see anything like that. i also just tried priming the pump. it primes to 4.11bar and then drops to 1.1, are the pumps supposed to hold the pressure at around where it primes to? I also tried without the gas cap and it acts the same way as with it screwed on.

Does the car have an adjustable fuel regulator? If it does lower the pressure.

The way a fuel regulator works on these is there's a set base pressure (usually 3bar or just under with vac reference removed) and as manifold pressure increases so does fuel pressure. 

It still a fuel pump issue. As has been stated. Your American yeah? I'd listen to the Australian guys who have more than 30years of experience with this platform.

when the factory regs failed I've had low pressure not high.

@Dose Pipe SutututuI still think we should go over there and show them how to set these things up properly and tune more than just full throttle cells.

  • Like 1
28 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Does the car have an adjustable fuel regulator? If it does lower the pressure.

The way a fuel regulator works on these is there's a set base pressure (usually 3bar or just under with vac reference removed) and as manifold pressure increases so does fuel pressure. 

It still a fuel pump issue. As has been stated. Your American yeah? I'd listen to the Australian guys who have more than 30years of experience with this platform.

when the factory regs failed I've had low pressure not high.

@Dose Pipe SutututuI still think we should go over there and show them how to set these things up properly and tune more than just full throttle cells.

I'm in canada lol

 

can you explain how the car as is in japan 4 years ago with a lesser flowing fuel pump than whats in there now was making 550rwhp and i can't get past 400 with the same exact setup except 4 years later. the car had been sitting for a bit. i dont know how else to explain its not a fuel pump issue unless the pickup is leaking. 

 

I understand how a fuel regulator works and buying a new regulator and playing with it could damage my engine. its the stock regulator on there which is good for heaps of power, the car has been tuned around this problem (which is no good i understand) i am trying to solve it and put it back on a dyno asap.

Edited by damnonrs
1 hour ago, damnonrs said:

I'm in canada lol

 

can you explain how the car as is in japan 4 years ago with a lesser flowing fuel pump than whats in there now was making 550rwhp and i can't get past 400 with the same exact setup except 4 years later. the car had been sitting for a bit. i dont know how else to explain its not a fuel pump issue unless the pickup is leaking. 

 

I understand how a fuel regulator works and buying a new regulator and playing with it could damage my engine. its the stock regulator on there which is good for heaps of power, the car has been tuned around this problem (which is no good i understand) i am trying to solve it and put it back on a dyno asap.

It's very easy to explain, you can make a dyno show whatever power figure you want very easily. For all we know the car never really made a genuine 550rwhp, it's just what the dyno printout showed. 

I don't know why you are so focused on the past and what the car supposedly did in Japan. 

Why not just focus on the issues you have now and resolving those. 

  • Like 3
1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

It's very easy to explain, you can make a dyno show whatever power figure you want very easily. For all we know the car never really made a genuine 550rwhp, it's just what the dyno printout showed. 

I don't know why you are so focused on the past and what the car supposedly did in Japan. 

Why not just focus on the issues you have now and resolving those. 

So you are telling me a reputable shop built and documented a 2.8 build by hand and gave the car to the customer that goes through a fuel tank in 100km and ran his car on the dyno leaning out and he drove it for 4-5 years like this? 
 

anyways I’m focused on the present. What would your next step be knowing all this? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...