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Hi there, I'll get right to the chase.

Put a set of aftermarket seats in my 98' R34 GTT 2 Door, and obviously have had the airbag light come on. Just wondering what the quick fix is. I'm happy to buy the right resistor online as opposed to making one and cutting into the wire myself. When I installed the aftermarket sterring wheel, the boss kit came with a resistor which worked perfectly, should I look at using the same sorta thing or will the seats needs a different ohm resistor?

Apologies if this has already been answered but I'd rather just buy the right part and be done with it.

 

Thanks in advance!

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What are yall on about? Unless I'm blind, there is one airbag in each seat. SRS logo on the side, yellow connector plug underneath that wires directly to the airbag control module in the very centre of the car. Plus I even have the original sales brochure from Japan and it has seat airbags as an option.

Please enlighten me if I'm wrong.

airb1.jpg

airb2.jpg

airb3.jpg

  • Like 1

The airbag light isn’t a direct globe, it’s apart of the circuit board of the cluster. I’ve had it apart to pull the HICAS light and thought it would be the same, but it’s not. For obvious reason you can’t tamper with it.

On 1/28/2023 at 8:45 PM, kyl_er34 said:

What are yall on about? Unless I'm blind, there is one airbag in each seat. SRS logo on the side, yellow connector plug underneath that wires directly to the airbag control module in the very centre of the car. Plus I even have the original sales brochure from Japan and it has seat airbags as an option.

Please enlighten me if I'm wrong.

airb1.jpg

airb2.jpg

airb3.jpg

This is the first I've heard of it :D. Do you have any more photos of these R34 seats that have airbags in them? It must have been a very very rare option for people to select for some reason.

My solution is leave the OG seats in. Unless you have a 5/6poiny harness, HANS device, cage and are on a racetrack, I much prefer an airbag that is functional. You're at the point where people do 'foamectomies' to seats to make them fit better as opposed to just removing certain elements of airbag functionality.

Some cars have an option from the factory where you can actually reconfigure which options the car has (I did this with a Megane to tell it it didn't have TPM's from the factory). No idea if the R34 or any skyline has any functionality of sorts for this.

4 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Don't know if it bothers you or not, but as soon as you remove an air bag the car is no longer street legal. 

Yeah that’s not a problem for me.

5 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

This is the first I've heard of it :D. Do you have any more photos of these R34 seats that have airbags in them? It must have been a very very rare option for people to select for some reason.

My solution is leave the OG seats in. Unless you have a 5/6poiny harness, HANS device, cage and are on a racetrack, I much prefer an airbag that is functional. You're at the point where people do 'foamectomies' to seats to make them fit better as opposed to just removing certain elements of airbag functionality.

Some cars have an option from the factory where you can actually reconfigure which options the car has (I did this with a Megane to tell it it didn't have TPM's from the factory). No idea if the R34 or any skyline has any functionality of sorts for this.

Aftermarket seats will be staying in the car. I can get more photos but it’s not that rare, two close mates of mine both have very standard GTTs and both also have seat airbags.

In that case, your options look to be;

  1. Measure the resistance of the airbag connection on the seat you took out. That's the value resistor to connect to the loom plug. Bonus points for setting off the airbag with the multimeter's battery.
  2. Just a resistor substitution box onto it, set to some value maybe half what you used on the steering wheel. Gradually increase the value on the substitution box until you stop getting the light. That's the value resistor to connect.
  3. American fix. A black sticker over the light on the dashboard.
    On 1/29/2023 at 10:07 AM, kyl_er34 said:

    it’s apart of the circuit board of the cluster. I’ve had it apart to pull the HICAS light and thought it would be the same, but it’s not. For obvious reason you can’t tamper with it.

    Well, that's not strictly true. If it's an LED on the PCB, you've already missed your opportunity to "pull" the globe by just desoldering the LED from the PCB. Would have taken 2s plus warmup time.

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

In that case, your options look to be;

  1. Measure the resistance of the airbag connection on the seat you took out. That's the value resistor to connect to the loom plug. Bonus points for setting off the airbag with the multimeter's battery.
  2. Just a resistor substitution box onto it, set to some value maybe half what you used on the steering wheel. Gradually increase the value on the substitution box until you stop getting the light. That's the value resistor to connect.
  3. American fix. A black sticker over the light on the dashboard.

    Well, that's not strictly true. If it's an LED on the PCB, you've already missed your opportunity to "pull" the globe by just desoldering the LED from the PCB. Would have taken 2s plus warmup time.

Looks like this will be the case.

I know full well I could desolder it from the board, however it’s a Nismo ER34 Manual cluster and they’re worth a small fortune. So I chose wisely to not to.

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