Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, was wondering if anyone can help with my issue would be much appreciated.

r34 gt4 4wd non turbo originally

installed stagea 2.5 turbo 4wd engine into r34

got it running just fine with some niggly issues

few questions

idles at 900rpm cold or hot, ideally when cold should idle high and then drop. It sits consistently no missfire or cut off. Power to idle control valve is present, tps set correctly, diagnostics code 55 no faults. No engine light also.

 

currently using stagea turbo ecu would that cause a conflict?

 

injector resistor, not installed is this important? Will it need to be installed?

 

4wd light is on also , front abs sensors need replacing as they broke and are not on vehicle hence abs light is also on. 

 

Thank you in advance any support would really appreciate.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

currently using stagea turbo ecu would that cause a conflict?

No. Better than GTT ECU which would have a shit fit about not seeing the TCS system. Besides which, it's the right ECU for the engine, yeah?

 

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

idles at 900rpm cold or hot, ideally when cold should idle high and then drop. It sits consistently no missfire or cut off. Power to idle control valve is present, tps set correctly, diagnostics code 55 no faults. No engine light also.

If it's all working electrically, then expect that the IACV is dirty and stuck so that it won't close enough to drop the idle.

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

injector resistor, not installed is this important? Will it need to be installed?

What injector resistor? There is not supposed to be one.

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

4wd light is on also , front abs sensors need replacing as they broke and are not on vehicle hence abs light is also on. 

Well.....

 

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

 

If it's all working electrically, then expect that the IACV is dirty and stuck so that it won't close enough to drop the idle.

 

Step one would be to unplug the IACV and see how low the idle drops. If the bypass screw isn't closed enough, it won't matter how well the IACV is working.

 

I do agree with pulling IACV and cleaning it though, would do it either way. Really should have been done before engine install into car.

Hi there is power to idle control valve, issue is no cold start, it starts at 900rpm and will stay there.

 

changed idle control with another same issue

 

injector resistor is found on gtt models and stagea. Gt four non existent, with this car now turbo would it need this wiring in

47 minutes ago, Mussy said:

Hi there is power to idle control valve, issue is no cold start, it starts at 900rpm and will stay there.

OK, so the opposite problem of what I gathered (because I didn't read your OP properly). You see, 900 is high, so I presumed your problem was that it wasn't dropping down from 900 to the correct idle speed of 600-650.

So you actually have 2 problems.

The cold start on the Neo IACV is a wax pellet thermostat thingo that is heated by coolant. If you do not have coolant flow to it, then it simply won't close. So idle will stay high. The coolant path in these things can get plugged up. I had to extensively clean mine out after the engine swap to get it to flow coolant. Was full of red rusty deposits (as was the whole engine, which took ~5 coolant flushes to come clean). So....have a look.

Now, if the cold start valve is fully open, then that might explain the lack of dropping to proper idle speed. The ECU could be dialling the stepper back to minimum opening and not gaining control because the cold start is just too much for it.

52 minutes ago, Mussy said:

injector resistor is found on gtt models and stagea

yeah. nah.

Here's the top part of the R34 ECU and engine wiring diagram. The injectors are on the left. See the resistor? No. I can't either. High impedence injectors just don't have them.

image.thumb.png.d871624fcda52fb29417787935a3b6b3.png

 

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

This is the resistor found in engine bay that Iam askin about 

IMG_9841.thumb.png.ea92d34e225bd7e22198e03ac30df6ee.png

Just to be clear, was that in your car or is it a sample pic?

Looks to me like an injector resistor pack

Either way, you need the wiring loom and engine to match, and it sounds like they do (plus, the engine is running OK). Therefore, I would not worry about anything that was in the car for the old engine setup

sorry guys dont know how to respond to comments on here thanks for the wiring diagram, im confused as i have r34 gtt here with fuel resistor so i assumed i would need it for this car also.

 

it seems to be working just fine just want to be on safe side. Just need to sort this cold start issue out need it to idle high and then come down once warm

I would like to point out that the RB26 injector resistor linked by OP is a rip off. US$165, but can get them here in Oz for AU$150 from Just Jap.

RB26 cars have injector resistors because they use low impedance injectors and the ECU actually wants to see high impedance. Nissan did some weird shit there to get the injectors to do the peak & hold stuff. There are actually 6 resistors in there. One for each injector, and that's why there are multiple wires in the lead and plug.

All other RBs use high impedance injectors. Therefore no resistor.

The resistor that you will see in the engine bay in other RB engined cars only has 2 wires. That one is the dropping resistor for the auto trans, as Ben said, and as shown in the manual on page AT-7.

image.thumb.png.1a2841bad3f21db1e7cc311677bc89c2.png

  • Like 2

Hi alot of trouble shooting later, repaced the dump valve back to standard idles better no cutting off, still no cold start, changed iacv, coilpacks, theottle body, iat sensor, as inahve two sets of everything still no change.

 

now i may think it is ecu related as the ecu installed into r34 is  from a neo stage 4wd rb25det but it is auto my car is manual from factory.

 

Thanks for the reply guys dont know how to

reapons individually yet 🙈

 

attached is picture of ecu

IMG_0001.jpeg

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Have you followed my other recommendation? Coolant flow?

Hi yes fully cleaned, will remove today again and clean, have noticed when setting idle learn when i connect the tps plug revs increase ever so slightly,

will be checking neutral switch to pin 39 on ecu to ensure this is wired

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...