Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have an EMU in my car and I am trying to set up the launch control but no joy. Has anyone had any luck with this feature? I have set all the parameters in the IGN tab but I am unable to get it to work. I will upload photos of my parameters when I get to lunch today.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485082-emanage-ulitimate-ign-cut-help/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/13/2023 at 11:35 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If you love your engine and want bang bangs, get a better ECU.

Since when are EMU's considered no bueno? What's wrong with them?

9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

No piggyback ECU has ever been any good. It's not 1996 any more.

First time I've ever heard an Emanage refered to as an EMU. I should have read the title. I thought we were talking about an Ecumaster EMU, which are great.

I agree, they're garbage. 

Edited by TurboTapin

Yeah I think it is the "Ultimate" version that got them called EMU.

Still, there are better ways these days. Not just the fact it is a piggyback rather than full control, but also access to software and experienced tuners is pretty slim.

Just grab a PowerFC, cheap, easy to tune, readily available if you want basic tuning capability

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...